Winter Cleaning

I took advantage of the warm weather and let the stove go out. I cleaned the whole firebox and vaccumed the pipe. There was quite a bit of ash in the pipe. All clean now with beautiful blue ladies dancing.

On another note, the stove is a Hitzer 50-93. I noticed the piece of angle iron or whatever that covers the top of the front fire brick is almost burnt through. When the stove is burning this gets red hot and bends up. I have pounded back into shape a couple of times, but it is pretty shot. Think I should make a new one or call Hitzer? Stove is on it's 2nd season.

Qball wrote:I took advantage of the warm weather and let the stove go out. I cleaned the whole firebox and vaccumed the pipe. There was quite a bit of ash in the pipe. All clean now with beautiful blue ladies dancing.

On another note, the stove is a Hitzer 30-95. I noticed the piece of angle iron or whatever that covers the top of the front fire brick is almost burnt through. When the stove is burning this gets red hot and bends up. I have pounded back into shape a couple of times, but it is pretty shot. Think I should make a new one or call Hitzer? Stove is on it's 2nd season.

Something to ponder; My 50-93 never had firebrick in the front. To this day, no problems. The next year, I bought a 30-95, which did have firebrick in the front. I cut the top of the firebricks on an angle so coal does Not set on them. Works very good. As time went on, I've read on this site that a piece of metal was being used over the top of the front fire brick. Yet, just recently, my cousin bought a new 30-95, with firebrick in the front (no metal). Coal sets on top of his fire brick. I did mention cutting the top on a angle. You might want to try this, and forget the metal. Initially, you could glue the firebrick in place. The bed of coals will hold them in place, while the ashes pack in the voids.

Qball --------- had similar experience my H 354; on summer cleanout I put a 45 shelf above the brick using a 3000F refractory cement sold by NARCO/AP Green. Trade name is on another thread, not too hard to find 5 gals. = $50+
Its on the 4th season after that .... if you try that approach use already fired (pemanently) expanded bricks or run the risk of a small expansion at high temperature breaking either the refractory cement or the bricks. baldeagle

Ok, I had to get up and check my stove. Front firebricks laying on their sides, no metal or angle iron on top of them. Coal sits on top of them, but doesn't burn so I am not woried about hot coals laying up against the door frame.

I also cleaned out my Hitzer 354 today (new this season) and found that the bottom bracket (part of the grate holder) that holds the rear fire brick in place is also in very rough shape - see attached photo.

I emailed Hitzer and they replied quickly that this part won't effect the use of the stove but they will repair it if I send it to them.

I'm going to make the repair myself but this piece of metal takes a lot of abuse so I'm trying to figure out the best material or design so it won't buckle and split so soon.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Larry

Overheated metal expanded where it was not welded down and caused the buckle.
Most bricks are in a channel or held back by cast iron.

rovatune - came across your question today, we had a similar issue with the top bracket ....... our solution
was to get a 5 gal pail of AP Green Hi-Temp. cement -- about $50 at supply houses. We just put a 45 angle
on the top of the brick and both top and bottom stay put. There is an expansion that takes place to your firebrick
so if you need to replace cracked brick I'd only put a small amount on the top. Been that way now for 4 years.
baldeagle