New Hitzer 30-95

 
duck
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Post by duck » Sun. Feb. 15, 2009 11:29 pm

Our new Hitzer 30-95 was delivered last Wednesday, had to leave work to accept delivery and then go back. When I got home we had a chance to look over the stove I noticed the automatic draft door was bent out of shape not even close to being closed, we had to straighten out the sheet metal to get it to close properly. Opening the door I found the shaker handle and a small hook for the hopper door, there was no blower or literature regarding operation or installation. I used the Hitzer web site for installation info. A call was placed to the dealer and they said they would call Hitzer and order what was needed. Not too impressed with the dealer's preparation for shipment. Hooked up the stove, removed the hopper and burned a few small wood fires for conditioning. We went to coal Friday evening and so far we are really happy with the Hitzer. I have never burned a stove with thermostatic control and hopper feed it is enjoyable. Looked at all the posts on the forums related to Hitzer and it was a great guide - thanks to all. During lunch time at work on Friday I went to the weld shop and made another ash pan and a tote to carry the ash pan through the living room and out the door to the ash can. Made the tote out of 20 GA with a hinged top and open on the end to allow the ash pan to slide in.

QUESTION - Noticed a small magnet inside the air intake tube just behind the air door it is set back so it dose not make actual contact with the movable door. I assume it must have some influence on operation, does anyone have an explanation? Attached photo of ash pan and totes and new stove.

Attachments

hitzer 004.JPG

Additional ash pan and tote

.JPG | 1.4MB | hitzer 004.JPG
hitzer 001.JPG

New Hitzer operating 425 deg on stove 175 deg on pipe

.JPG | 1.3MB | hitzer 001.JPG


 
CapeCoaler
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Post by CapeCoaler » Sun. Feb. 15, 2009 11:39 pm

Keeps the air door from flapping in the breeze!
If it made contact it would never open again.
The old VC wood burner had a noisy flapper issue.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Mon. Feb. 16, 2009 8:29 am

I'll elaborate a little on capcoaler's reply. When the stove gets up to temperature, the flapper door closes. Shortly before it closes, it starts moving back and fourth, tapping the stove. You will hear a ting ting ting ting.......on the stove. Seeing the flapper door is so close to closeing, the power from the magnet simply pulls it closed. Results; no ting ting ting ting......... What Capecoaler is saying is; you don't want the flapper door comming in direct contact with the magnet. With the magnet being in direct contact, the flapper door will not open till the stoves cool enough for the spring tention to POP it off the magnet. By that time, the stove is so cool, the fire roars away in order to bring the mass of the stove back up to temperature, in order for the flapper door to close again. Meanwhile, the stove roars out of control, and over fireing. Could cause a fire. House temps would be up and down. The magnet is ajustable. What you want is a little magnetic pull, without direct contact. That being said; My cousin just bought a 30-95. The holes for the magnet are drilled too far back from the openning. With his magnet slid all the way towards the flapper door, he still has no magnetic pull. Untill he corrects this, he listens to the tinging.

 
duck
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Post by duck » Mon. Feb. 16, 2009 10:15 am

CapeCoaler / oliverpower,
Thanks for the replies on the "air flapper" magnetic dampening. Once you folks mentioned it I do remember years ago a friend at work purchased a new VC wood burner and chased the ticking noise around till he found it.

Getting Older + Lots of beer = Forgetting the little things in the past

Thanks

 
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Post by rberq » Mon. Feb. 16, 2009 10:29 am

A question for you 30-95 owners: When I pour coal from the bags into my coal hods, in the garage, a very fine black dust comes up, almost like smoke. When you fill the 30-95 hopper, what trick do you use to keep that dust from getting into the room air in your house?

 
CapeCoaler
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Post by CapeCoaler » Mon. Feb. 16, 2009 12:01 pm

Blaschak 40lb bags tend to be damp.
Slice top open, then give it a twist like you do to trash before putting on a bag tie.
5 gallon pail will hold the 40 lb bag.
Put coal bag, twisted end down, into pail then bang the pail on floor to settle the coal.
Pull coal bag out leaving coal in pail, no dust.
If your coal is dry a 5 gallon pump sprayer with plain water will do a fine job of moistening the coal.
Pour into coal hod then into stove.
Bigger bag needs a bigger pail roughly 8 lb per gallon.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Mon. Feb. 16, 2009 12:24 pm

rberq wrote:A question for you 30-95 owners: When I pour coal from the bags into my coal hods, in the garage, a very fine black dust comes up, almost like smoke. When you fill the 30-95 hopper, what trick do you use to keep that dust from getting into the room air in your house?
As mentioned in other posts, a strong draft during tending is a good thing. My 30-95 is in the shop. I'll tell you how I tend the 50-93, which is in the basement of the house (same princable). BEFORE SHAKING, I open the ashpan door, and empty the ashpan from the previous shaking (cool ashes). I leave the ashpan door open. When the stack temps reach 300 degrees, I now have a strong draft, as well as a hot bed of coals. Then I shake, close the ashpan door, and open the hopper lid (in that order). Dump a 5 gallon pail of chestnut coal into the hopper. Dust follows the coal, due to the strong draft. Clean around hopper openning, and close lid. Takes about 5 minutes from start to finish. Just remember the stove rule; one door open at a time. The open door will be drawing in the air. The hotter the fire, the more draw from chimney. On average my stove operates with a stack temp between 150 - 200 degrees, depending on outside temps.


 
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grizzly2
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Post by grizzly2 » Mon. Feb. 16, 2009 4:57 pm

Cape and Oliver have your question covered real well, so I will just say; Congratulations on your new arrival. Very nice installation. :)

 
rberq
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Post by rberq » Mon. Feb. 16, 2009 7:19 pm

Thank you for the dust hints, gentlemen. And, good-looking installation, duck.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Thu. Feb. 19, 2009 10:54 am

oliver power wrote:
rberq wrote:A question for you 30-95 owners: When I pour coal from the bags into my coal hods, in the garage, a very fine black dust comes up, almost like smoke. When you fill the 30-95 hopper, what trick do you use to keep that dust from getting into the room air in your house?
As mentioned in other posts, a strong draft during tending is a good thing. My 30-95 is in the shop. I'll tell you how I tend the 50-93, which is in the basement of the house (same princable). BEFORE SHAKING, I open the ashpan door, and empty the ashpan from the previous shaking (cool ashes). I leave the ashpan door open. When the stack temps reach 300 degrees, I now have a strong draft, as well as a hot bed of coals. Then I shake, close the ashpan door, and open the hopper lid (in that order). Dump a 5 gallon pail of chestnut coal into the hopper. Dust follows the coal, due to the strong draft. Clean around hopper openning, and close lid. Takes about 5 minutes from start to finish. Just remember the stove rule; one door open at a time. The open door will be drawing in the air. The hotter the fire, the more draw from chimney. On average my stove operates with a stack temp between 150 - 200 degrees, depending on outside temps.
Above is my daily tending proceedure. I might just as well mention the extended version; During daily tending, I never open the firebox door. That is; not till the fire needs poking, due to ash build up. And that's about every 3 - 7 days, give or take. I leave the ash build more in warmer weather. Should the glass need cleaning, that is also when it gets cleaned.

 
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Post by rberq » Thu. Feb. 19, 2009 6:13 pm

oliver power wrote:till the fire needs poking, due to ash build up. And that's about every 3 - 7 days, give or take
I have started doing the fire-poke thing every two to three days. Actually, it's more like tossing a salad. I shake down the ashes, then kind of pick up and fluff up the remaining coal, which lets more of the accumulated finer ashes drop down and through the grates. I'm looking now for a better tool to toss the salad -- something like a spading fork or pitch fork that will lift up the coals but let the small stuff drop through. There must be something "off the shelf" like that in the gardening tools or mechanical tools -- I'll know it when I see it.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Thu. Feb. 19, 2009 7:11 pm

rberq wrote:
oliver power wrote:till the fire needs poking, due to ash build up. And that's about every 3 - 7 days, give or take
I have started doing the fire-poke thing every two to three days. Actually, it's more like tossing a salad. I shake down the ashes, then kind of pick up and fluff up the remaining coal, which lets more of the accumulated finer ashes drop down and through the grates. I'm looking now for a better tool to toss the salad -- something like a spading fork or pitch fork that will lift up the coals but let the small stuff drop through. There must be something "off the shelf" like that in the gardening tools or mechanical tools -- I'll know it when I see it.
rberq, I do just the opposite of you. I do the poking/fluffing around the edges first, then shake. When you shake first, everything settles. Then you're trying to "toss as you say" dead ash into already settled bed of coal. My pokers are 5/8" diameter rod x 36" long, heated, and flattened some on one end. A round eyelet on the other end acts as a handle. Works very good. Could not see how anything else could work better. And you're right, poking is not a straight poke. I run the poker down through the dead ash, and kind of fluff up.

 
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Post by rberq » Thu. Feb. 19, 2009 7:44 pm

oliver power wrote:My pokers are 5/8" diameter rod x 36" long, heated, and flattened some on one end
Sort of like a shoe horn on the end of a stick. OK, I will make me one of those. Thanks. And I'll try the fluff-before-you-shake method and see if it works better. The biggest advantage I find in a thorough purging of the ashes, is that it makes room for more fresh coal, which makes the next fire more uniform, hotter, and longer-lasting.

 
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Post by Rex » Fri. Feb. 20, 2009 3:03 am

QUESTION - Noticed a small magnet inside the air intake tube just behind the air door it is set back so it dose not make actual contact with the movable door. I assume it must have some influence on operation, does anyone have an explanation?
I actually removed the magnet and place two small paper clips on either side of the air flap. This adds just enough weight to minimize the ting, ting ting, sound, plus I have better burn control when set to very low burn temperature settings (lessens "open drag" and opens up sooner for better temperature sensitivity when set for low temperature). The front air holes are closed and not used.

 
rberq
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Post by rberq » Fri. Feb. 20, 2009 7:09 pm

Rex wrote:removed the magnet and place two small paper clips on either side of the air flap
Clever! I remember that ting-ting-ting from my old Wonder Wood circulator stove, when the flap was almost closed and draft fluctuations clanked it shut over and over again. It sounds like the paperclips also keep the flap ever so slightly open to help the stove idle, especially where you have the front inlet closed.


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