Asking for Valuable Information From a Hitzer Owner

This idea may be nuts, and maybe I'll never do it, but --
I'm thinking about retrofitting my Harman Mk I with a thermostatic air control. I think I could use stock parts from a Hitzer 254 or similar, and put it on the side of my stove rather than the back. Here are a couple questions:
(1) Does the adjustable thermostat unit mount directly on a single-wall portion of the stove?
(2) If you put a thermometer on the stove surface, close to the thermostat, what range of temperatures do you see, from low idle to really-pumping-out-the-heat? My stove runs anywhere from 200 to 750; so if the Hitzer is similar, it seems that the thermostat would be compatible.

Comments welcome from anyone. Would this work?

Here are some pictures of the control on the side of my Model 82. You could probably get the parts right from Hitzer. My thermometer is on the side near the top and I run it between 175 and 500. The air inlet is about a 3x5 inch opening directly underneath the grates.

BGK wrote:I run it between 175 and 500

BGK, thanks for the great pictures. When you say you run between 175 and 500, does that mean the surface temperature of the stove at the point where the thermostat is mounted? What is the highest number you can set it to?

Is that chain just like a simple pull-chain to turn a lamp on and off?

alaska sells one for the kodial that is all bolt on it cost about $85.00 all you need to do is cut the opening and drill holes the chain is longer than needed so u can cut it down

Thanks, bono, I will look into that, too. Bolt-on sounds good.

You will have to drill an opening in the mark.
The temperatures are relative.

rberq wrote:

BGK wrote:I run it between 175 and 500

BGK, thanks for the great pictures. When you say you run between 175 and 500, does that mean the surface temperature of the stove at the point where the thermostat is mounted? What is the highest number you can set it to?

Is that chain just like a simple pull-chain to turn a lamp on and off?

rberg, my stove thermometer is on the opposite side of the stove, same height. The draft dial just has numbers 1-15. The way my stove is set up 6-7 runs at 175 and 11-12 runs 500. I'm sure each set up would be a little different. Yes, it is like a simple pull-chain, but they seem to last. My old Riteway had one and it never gave me a problem in 16 years and the stove is probably 30 years old. Hope this helps, BGK.

Thank you everybody for the helpful replies. One more question for you, BGK: What are the approximate dimensions, height and width, of the rectangular air inlet where it meets the stove body?

rberq wrote:Thank you everybody for the helpful replies. One more question for you, BGK: What are the approximate dimensions, height and width, of the rectangular air inlet where it meets the stove body?

Air intake opening on my 30-95 is 3" high X 4-3/4" wide. 50K BTU stove. Thermostat mounted near top of back on single wall. Chain drops straight down to intake door. Don't forget to mount a cabinet door magnet latch just inside the air intake box. Adjust so the magnet is about .020" away from the metal door with the door closed. This keeps the door from fluttering and banging when the door is nearly closed.

I think adding this system to any steel stove with single wall construction is very doable for anyone with moderate welding and mechanical skills.

grizzly2 wrote:I think adding this system to any steel stove with single wall construction is very doable for anyone with moderate welding and mechanical skills.

Thanks, Grizzly. That's why I am considering the bolt-on version from the Alaska Kodiak which bono suggested. I can use a drill and a wrench, but welding? no way! The Kodiak is twice the BTUs of my Harman and your 30-95, but they describe the air intake as about the same size as you have. Also, Hitzer is sending me a parts manual, and if they sell the intake box separately (even though it's welded) I can turn it into a bolt-on by having someone weld a couple flanges to the sides.

Have to toss this out there...
Why not sell your used Mark I and buy a used Hitzer EZ-Flow?
You would get the automatic air and hopper feed!
The hopper is what I like the auto air is just a bonus!

CapeCoaler wrote:Why not sell your used Mark I and buy a used Hitzer EZ-Flow?

Well, yes, but must you talk sense to me when I am scheming how to do a fun project?

The standard air inlet on the Harman is in the middle of the ash door -- front-bottom-center on the stove. If I fit the thermostatic inlet on the side, will the different air flow make the stove burn funny? Like burn all the coal on one side before it gets to the other?

Just a case of early spring fever in Maine?
Rather than cutting into the side why not make a snorkel to go over the existing air vent?
Mount the flapper on the side build an air box underneath.
The bitch will be the designing the flex corner to handle the door movement.
You have some time before the snow melts to figure that out!
How about going underneath the stove then the matchup will be straight on!
Just a gasket and seal issue.

The standard air inlet on the Harman is in the middle of the ash door -- front-bottom-center on the stove. If I fit the thermostatic inlet on the side, will the different air flow make the stove burn funny? Like burn all the coal on one side before it gets to the other?

The intake is way off center on the back of my Hitzer. The coal bed burns evenly.

grizzly2 wrote:The intake is way off center on the back of my Hitzer. The coal bed burns evenly.

Thanks. That's reassuring.