DHW Hookup Diagram

After searching through these forums and reading up on this DHW hookup, I did a diagram to see if I got it right. I didn't add the compresion fittings etc, mostly just the basics. The shutoff valves are for the summer when I go back to electric.
If I missed something, please let me know. Thanks
<removed dead image link>
Chris

That is mostly right but as it stands now it IS A VERY SERIOUS EXPLOSION WAITING TO HAPPEN. You need a PRV between those summer shut off valves and the stove preferably at the high point piped to a drain termination to minimize the mess or scald risk if the prv should open up.So bottom line is you can't have an area of you loop that can be isolated from a PRV. Check under my posts I have picture of a correct setup to boiler but it is essentially the same for a hot water heater. Also remeber if your channing has the clean glass system getting a stock coil in the stove may also be a challenge

Won't the PRV on the electric hot water heater do the trick? I try and search for your picture. Thanks

jpen1 wrote:That is mostly right but as it stands now it IS A VERY SERIOUS EXPLOSION WAITING TO HAPPEN. You need a PRV between those summer shut off valves and the stove preferably at the high point piped to a drain termination to minimize the mess or scald risk if the prv should open up.So bottom line is you can't have an area of you loop that can be isolated from a PRV. Check under my posts I have picture of a correct setup to boiler but it is essentially the same for a hot water heater. Also remeber if your channing has the clean glass system getting a stock coil in the stove may also be a challenge

No because your shut off valves isolate coil in the stove from the prv in the water heater. If for some reason those valves wer closed and you lit you stove the results would be catostrophic. Even if no one was injured or killed by the explosion that would ensue it would destroy your stove and may even completely demolish your home. If do enough searching on the net you will come across pictures of the destuction that happens if a prv is isolated by shutoff valves with the stove lit.

There is another PRV at the stove.

jpen1 wrote:No because your shut off valves isolate coil in the stove from the prv in the water heater. If for some reason those valves wer closed and you lit you stove the results would be catostrophic. Even if no one was injured or killed by the explosion that would ensue it would destroy your stove and may even completely demolish your home. If do enough searching on the net you will come across pictures of the destuction that happens if a prv is isolated by shutoff valves with the stove lit.

Ok I didn't see a PRV at the stove in the schematic. here is the thread from my coil project Custom Water Coil Setup for Channing III

Ah, ok, phew was getting nervous there... lol. Also, I don't have the clean glass system so if that makes it easier, then great!. Nice job on your plumbing and setup.

jpen1 wrote:Ok I didn't see a PRV at the stove in the schematic. here is the thread from my coil project Custom Water Coil Setup for Channing III

I'd set it up so for winter use the supply water runs thru the stove coil first, not straight into the tank then circ'd to the stove.

I didn't realize the image was cut off until I got home from work... I got a 22" wide lcd at work. So I resized the image.. I'll have to think about running it to the stove first. thanks for the suggestion.

djackman wrote:I'd set it up so for winter use the supply water runs thru the stove coil first, not straight into the tank then circ'd to the stove.

djackman wrote:I'd set it up so for winter use the supply water runs thru the stove coil first, not straight into the tank then circ'd to the stove.

Could you set one up to just run strait thru a Coil in the stove to the Feed of the HotWater Heater? Not really a loop ?
This would be very easy and simple but thinking you would not get enough heat in a once pass thru.

Hi Gettingstoked,
I'll try to give you advice with that diagram. I've been thinking of doing the same to mine.
Your HOT return from the stove is being "T"ed into the COLD supply line for the hot water heater. This might be an issue.
The COLD supply into my hot water heater has an internal 'drop' pipe, that almost reaches the bottom of the tank. I guess this forces all the incoming COLD water below the warm water that already exists in the tank.
If you use the COLD water supply line into the hot water heater, you will be pushing the Stove-warmed water down to the bottom of the HWH.
In addition, your use of the drain line on the hot water heater, to supply cold water to the stove's coil, is an acceptable industry standard. But its not required. I'll try to explain:

Once you heat your stove and it begins to heat the coil, the hot (warm) water that is created will come back to the cold water supply line for the HWH. IF it has a 'drop' pipe inside like mine, that warm water is going to be forced down to the level where it just may go right out the drain, and back into the stove to be reheated.
Since you plan to put a "T" in the SUPPLY line into the HWH, you must be ok with cutting and soldering copper. So try this:
A more efficient system would be to:

A) put a "T" in the HOT WATER OUT line of the HWH. Connect your RETURN (hot water) from the stove coil here . And then
B) put a "T" in the COLD WATER IN line into the HWH. Connect this to the line going TO the stoves coil (cold water).
This should allow all hot water in the tank, to stay at the top of the tank. Just cold water at the bottom of the HWH will be sucked up and pumped to stoves coil.
Since hot water rises in the tank, and cold water falls, this will hopefully, allow you to have hot(er) showers instead of Luke warm showers.
Thats just my idea of how I would set mine up. Are there any plumbers out there who could confirm? Let me know if I'm just full of HOT AIR

Chris F.

Chris you have a good oint about the water not mixing properly but you can't pplumb it that way as it won't allow the water to come into the tank with thwepump pulling it constantly out the in side of the hot water heater. I think the best solution is to feed into the water heater through the tee incoming side of the water heater and put a tee in the right before the prv to pump out to the stove's coil

jpen1 wrote:Chris you have a good oint about the water not mixing properly but you can't pplumb it that way as it won't allow the water to come into the tank with thwepump pulling it constantly out the in side of the hot water heater. I think the best solution is to feed into the water heater through the tee incoming side of the water heater and put a tee in the right before the prv to pump out to the stove's coil

Yes, good point, that would work too.
Theres gotts be alot of other peoples conversions on this site. Need to search for DHW to get ideas.

Chris F.

DVC500_at_last wrote:A) put a "T" in the HOT WATER OUT line of the HWH. Connect your RETURN (hot water) from the stove coil here . And then
B) put a "T" in the COLD WATER IN line into the HWH. Connect this to the line going TO the stoves coil (cold water).
This should allow all hot water in the tank, to stay at the top of the tank. Just cold water at the bottom of the HWH will be sucked up and pumped to stoves coil.

What would happen when there is a call for hot water it could pull the cold water from the well through the coil in the coal stove and right to the shower which will not be hot. The problem with these coils you put in a stoves is it dosen't heat the water in one pass it takes time with constant circulation to raise the water temperature it may take five hours to get the water from 60* to 120* it all depends on the temp of your stove.