(This may not be in the right place, if not please repost in the correct place)
Is it possible to direct vent a stand alone anthracite stove into the fireplace? I do not want to seal off the orginial opening and cut a hole in the chimney, but just want to vent it straight up the chimney. The house I used to live in had a stand alone vented that way and I never had a problem, I just want to be sure that it is safe to do so.
Venting a Stand-Alone Stove Into a Fire Place
- Legendsingray
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- WNY
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You would have to make sure you have enough pipe up thru the Damper 94-6 feet) and seal off the damper good with insulation, or make an adapter, etc. to keep any fumes coming back down, but once you get the heat drawing up the chimney, it normally pulls all the exhaust up it. And always have a good CO detector near the stove.
- Legendsingray
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 983 Insert
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/ Anthracite
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The house I lived in before had it that way and had the pipe sealed off with fiberglass insulation and it never had a problem with fumes. I have always kept a CO detector by my heat source. I thought it could be done without problems. What type of pipe should I use? If I purchased a stove with the outlet in the back would single 90 up into the chimney work?
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Flex liner to an adapter to your 90* pipe.
Ovalize the pipe yourself or buy it that way.
Full liner to the top if the chimney flue is large or your draft weak.
Full insulation will help if the chimney is very cold.
Ovalize the pipe yourself or buy it that way.
Full liner to the top if the chimney flue is large or your draft weak.
Full insulation will help if the chimney is very cold.
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Capecoaler - I sent you an email - could you check your Forum inbox please? thanks! Paula (from the 503 insert stuff)CapeCoaler wrote:Flex liner to an adapter to your 90* pipe.
Ovalize the pipe yourself or buy it that way.
Full liner to the top if the chimney flue is large or your draft weak.
Full insulation will help if the chimney is very cold.
first try making a plate out of sheet metal that fits where the damper should close. seal around it with either high temp silicone or fire clay (either one of these can be easily removed) make sure you have a hole in the sheet steel plate the size of the stove flue pipe, and attach the pipe into the hole in the sheetsteel. seal around everything well with high-temp silicone or fireclay. try it this way first it should work well. if not you'll need a full liner. I don't like using fiberglass insulation because it is not an effective air stop, it allows air to cool the flue substantially, I've also found, for whatefver reason, these setups often draft better when the pipe is not extended to the first flue tile, but rather just to the damper block-off plate; with wood it is usually safer if the liner is extended to at least the first flue tile (large smoke-shelf chamber above fireplace acts as a creosote condenser).
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- Legendsingray
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- Other Heating: Electric Heat pump
Thanks to all. Now I just have to find a stand alone that will fit on my elevated hearth!
- lowfog01
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Hi,Legendsingray wrote:Thanks to all. Now I just have to find a stand alone that will fit on my elevated hearth!
Here's a thought - I was reading back achives and saw where someone had removed the legs off their stove and it slid right into the fireplace. They didn't put the entire stove in the fireplace, just a couple of inches which provided just enough depth to the hearth to make the whole thing work. Lisa