Delima!!What would you do ?

Well.. well... yes, it has to come up, but after that, let's talk.

You are preparing the surface to install ceramic tile? You mentioned tile so I assume it's ceramic, but if it's vinyl or wood, you can ignore what I have to say. Ceramic tile should have a minimum of 1 1/4" of underlayment. (usually 3/4" plywood, followed with 1/2" plywood) If durarock is used on the floor, it would go on top of that. Any less than 1 1/4" of subfloor and the ceramic will eventually loose it's mortar from flex. Durarock has no sheer value (no structural strength, it is for waterproofing and/or for making a flat surface.) Also, on a floor Durarock calls for either an absolutely flat surface to adhere to, or a skim coat of your favorite filler before it goes down. Even a small air space will allow the durarock to crack and the tile along with it.
If the total thickness is an issue, before I used durarock on the floor, I'd use 1/2" plywood.

Freddy wrote:Well.. well... yes, it has to come up, but after that, let's talk.

You are preparing the surface to install ceramic tile? You mentioned tile so I assume it's ceramic, but if it's vinyl or wood, you can ignore what I have to say. Ceramic tile should have a minimum of 1 1/4" of underlayment. (usually 3/4" plywood, followed with 1/2" plywood) If durarock is used on the floor, it would go on top of that. Any less than 1 1/4" of subfloor and the ceramic will eventually loose it's mortar from flex. Durarock has no sheer value (no structural strength, it is for waterproofing and/or for making a flat surface.) Also, on a floor Durarock calls for either an absolutely flat surface to adhere to, or a skim coat of your favorite filler before it goes down. Even a small air space will allow the durarock to crack and the tile along with it.
If the total thickness is an issue, before I used durarock on the floor, I'd use 1/2" plywood.

Freddy
Will an 1/8 " matter ? There is thinset under the durarok . The biggest reason the nails stick out of the floor is the fact that he used an air nailer and most of them were recessed in the durarok .

Would a boroscope inspection be of any help???
They are available relatively cheap, or numerous trades have them. Pest control, sewer service etc. One small hole between joists is all you need to see all. Easy patch after inspection. You may be able to rent one also!

Nevercold wrote:Would a boroscope inspection be of any help???
They are available relatively cheap, or numerous trades have them. Pest control, sewer service etc. One small hole between joists is all you need to see all. Easy patch after inspection. You may be able to rent one also!

Great idea and I was thinking about that . To reach where I need to I would need at least 12 feet . I checked on rental price $400/day +shipping . Then if I find something I am not sure of it will have to come up anyway . Believe me I would love not to have to have the floor ripped up . Thanks,Dave

Flyer5 wrote:Will an 1/8 " matter ?

Just remember that durarock is not counted in the thickness. I'd think being an eighth shy would be OK... better than being 1/4 or 1/2 shy.

[quote="Flyer5"]There is thinset under the durarok [/quot

He did the right thing there. However if he used a latex modified thinset, that cement board will be a bitch to get up!

My take on this situation is this. Since it tested ok @ 100psi and not enough time has lapsed to "wear into" the pex, then pull the nails and rock off and dont sweat the pex. (no pun) it is substantial stuff and without the "Time" factor of wear-thru, I would be confident no harm has been done. P.S. harbour freight has some functional cheap scopes that a 5/8 hole will allow. Save the $400 in a CD for the repair if needed in 20 yrs!! on thier nickle, let them re-establish a Freddy type floor with the right legnth SCREW!

If the rock is already in thinset why not just make him pull all of the nails and replace them with screws? That seems to be the simplest solution. Pulling the rock up is going to leave thinset on the floor or pull up the first ply of the plywood. You're looking at making a real mess. He should be able to get the nails out without to much damage. I'm sure he's going to crater around some of the nails. He can patch that with thinset just like you cover screws in sheetrock. That should eliminate the possibility of rubbing through your pex and it gives him a viable way out of his screw up. He may have a man pulling nails most of the day but he won't be out material and you'll have what you ordered.

billw wrote:If the rock is already in thinset why not just make him pull all of the nails and replace them with screws? That seems to be the simplest solution. Pulling the rock up is going to leave thinset on the floor or pull up the first ply of the plywood. You're looking at making a real mess. He should be able to get the nails out without to much damage. I'm sure he's going to crater around some of the nails. He can patch that with thinset just like you cover screws in sheetrock. That should eliminate the possibility of rubbing through your pex and it gives him a viable way out of his screw up. He may have a man pulling nails most of the day but he won't be out material and you'll have what you ordered.

I am heading in that direction . I pulled most of the nails today myself .The contractor is coming over tomorrow to find the rest that are covered in the morter . He thinks he has a nail finder to use for that . If not he will have to scrape all the joints that are mortered in . I believe it is a latex thin set. I think it would make more of a mess to rip it all up and redo it . He said he would be willing to put something in writing to guarantee it . So I guess I will be fine with that .
Anyone here need a job installing tile ? I may try it myself after all how hard could it be . I have a book on how to do it .Then there is always the internet . Hey it would have to look better than it has for the last 10 yrs . Thanks ,Dave

I put my own tile in two bathrooms, kitchen floor, countertop and backsplash. It's not that hard. Just take your time laying it out. Setting it is the easy part. If you can, rent or buy a wet saw. It makes life so much easier.

Flyer5 wrote: Anyone here need a job installing tile ?

Wow, I wish you lived closer, I'd jump on that offer!

Cooler heads have prevailed. Hope you have a productive day....with no problems.