Old Fire Place Concerns

 
User avatar
Poconoeagle
Member
Posts: 6397
Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 7:26 pm
Location: Tobyhanna PA

Post by Poconoeagle » Sun. Mar. 29, 2009 10:46 pm

brckwlt wrote:I couldnt find that tool in the basement or elsewhere this weekend. I couldnt even get it to move with channel lock pliers. Is it possible that it could be jammed? if so, once it jammed are they useless?

Would I have to burn big chunks of coal in that fireplace since the grates have huge openings in them?


see this tool at the bottom pic? AKA gizmo! http://www.yukon-eagle.com/FURNACES/EAGLEIVKLONDI ... fault.aspx

 
User avatar
009to090
Member
Posts: 5104
Joined: Fri. Jan. 30, 2009 10:02 am
Location: Live Oak, FL

Post by 009to090 » Sun. Mar. 29, 2009 10:59 pm

Poconoeagle wrote:from pic 302aa I sure would like to see the camera taking a pic upwards showing the bottom of those grates. maybe then if there are any "connecting" mechinizims between those grates which have thier shafts protruding thru that mounting we could determine if the shake or move. ;)
Yeah, from this shot, the grates appear to be in pretty good condition. They 'probably' rock left-and-right, the axes running front to back of stove.. It's possible they are rusted in place, and maybe soaking them in WD-40 would free them up.

 
User avatar
rockwood
Member
Posts: 1381
Joined: Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 7:37 pm
Location: Utah
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Stokermatic
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Rockwood Stoveworks Circulator
Baseburners & Antiques: Malleable/Monarch Range
Coal Size/Type: Lump and stoker + Blaschak-stove size

Post by rockwood » Sun. Mar. 29, 2009 11:05 pm

coaledsweat wrote:You need to pull that piece of wood or what ever it is out and remove those two slabs lying on the grates, the grates should rock side to side once they are freed up. You should be able to burn nut or stove (big chunks) of anthracite in that puppy with no problem.
Coaledsweat is right. Move those pieces of wood ("slabs") then use the channel locks again on the square shaft, the grates should then rotate.
Be careful moving the slabs because they appear to be supporting the brace that runs up the flue to that metal plate which could fall down as was discussed before.
Edit: You may want to leave the brace supporting the plate up in the chimney in place until you get the chimney top repaired. It will keep bricks etc. from falling down through the chimney and hitting the grates/fireplace cast iron. When you remove the brace, put something, like old blankets, whatever you can think of to protect the grates/cast iron in the fireplace from falling debris.
I'm pretty confident that the grates are ok after looking at the new photo(second photo with metal plate taken off).


 
User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 13763
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Mar. 30, 2009 7:28 am

They won't move until that stuff is removed from them, the pressure from above will prevent them from rocking. That said, the shafts may need a little lube or loosening up too.

 
User avatar
BigBarney
Member
Posts: 1853
Joined: Wed. Feb. 08, 2006 2:48 pm

Post by BigBarney » Mon. Mar. 30, 2009 10:17 am

The grates look pretty good,as others have said,get the pieces of metal off the rear of the

grate.Once you can see all of the grate I would spray the end of each shaker grate with a

good penetrating oil.Also take a flashlight and look down thru the grates to see any linkage

below them,if their there also spray them with the oil.Is there a hole in the side of the fire

place,maybe a lever was removed which formerly activated the grates.They had the metal

plate to hold wood and probably didn't burn coal.

Some of these older fireplaces had end links which allows the grate to rock up and down by

a side handle.These links are usually at the front under the front bottom cover and you have

to really get in the fireplace and look down under,some also let the front cover come off to

get at the linkage.

BigBarney

 
User avatar
brckwlt
Member
Posts: 2740
Joined: Tue. Jan. 27, 2009 8:32 pm
Location: Sunbury, PA

Post by brckwlt » Mon. Mar. 30, 2009 3:48 pm

Poconoeagle wrote:from pic 302aa I sure would like to see the camera taking a pic upwards showing the bottom of those grates. maybe then if there are any "connecting" mechinizims between those grates which have thier shafts protruding thru that mounting we could determine if the shake or move. ;)
i could try to do that next time I go back to pa


 
User avatar
brckwlt
Member
Posts: 2740
Joined: Tue. Jan. 27, 2009 8:32 pm
Location: Sunbury, PA

Post by brckwlt » Mon. Mar. 30, 2009 3:49 pm

Poconoeagle wrote: see this tool at the bottom pic? AKA gizmo! http://www.yukon-eagle.com/FURNACES/EAGLEIVKLONDI ... fault.aspx
I saw that last night when I googled the grates. I didnt see any tool like that in my house :(

 
User avatar
brckwlt
Member
Posts: 2740
Joined: Tue. Jan. 27, 2009 8:32 pm
Location: Sunbury, PA

Post by brckwlt » Mon. Mar. 30, 2009 4:00 pm

BigBarney wrote:Is there a hole in the side of the fire

place,maybe a lever was removed which formerly activated the grates.
I havent seen a hole in the side of the fireplace at all. Im almost 100 percent sure they burnt coal in that firplace. The Ash down in the basement is fine and doesnt smell like wood ash, no big chunks in the ash either.
BigBarney wrote:Some of these older fireplaces had end links which allows the grate to rock up and down by

a side handle.These links are usually at the front under the front bottom cover and you have

to really get in the fireplace and look down under,some also let the front cover come off to

get at the linkage.
The bottom does come off, but I havent investigated the bottom at all yet.
Bottomopen.jpg
.JPG | 439.5KB | Bottomopen.jpg
Looking down from the opening at the bottom of the fireplace.
bottomdown.jpg
.JPG | 1.7MB | bottomdown.jpg

Post Reply

Return to “Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats”