Suggestions on Setting up Alaska a140

feedingpete · Post by **feedingpete** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 6:49 am

Well, I bought my alaska a140 duel burner stove at the end of last season, and have had problems since! I just can't seem to get it right. after setting it up 3 different ways, I am currently set up with a lid and 6 - 6in ducts coming off of it. The exghaust runs about 6-8ft to the chimmeny. in order to run both sides with out getting a positive draft and carbon monoxide coming back thru the hopper, I had to add a draft inducer, which causes too much draft and I ended up with a hopper fire (not sure if this was the cause or if there is an udner lying problem). Can anyone give any suggestions on making this thing work and be efficient?

Kungur · Post by **Kungur** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 7:29 am

Do you have a manometer on your set-up?
I installed my 140 about 2 1/2 months ago and had to do a few modifications. One being relocating the limit switch. But I have not had anything close to a hopper fire.
You might try calling Alaska direct and talk with Ken. He has been a GREAT help when I had questions.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 7:32 am

What kinda of chimney? Height? Type? Inside/outside? Maybe power vent it instead, that keeps a constant draft on it. Yes, you need to set your draft with a Draft Gauge and do you have your Barometric Damper installed and calibrated correctly?

The duct work has nothing to do with the problems you are experiencing.

Do you have a pic of your setup?

feedingpete · Post by **feedingpete** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 11:33 am

I did call alaska co. and they were realy helpful. They said the strong back was bad if I had a hopper fire. but now thinking about it, I didn't have that prob. till I add a "draft inducer". when I check, I have A LOT of draft (-12). I'm not sure how to set the draft with both the barometric damper and the draft inducer. So, can too much draft cause a hopper fire?

feedingpete · Post by **feedingpete** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 11:34 am

I will try to get a pic up by tomarrow.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 11:39 am

.12 Draft!! WOW, that is WAY high. It should be - .02-.04 for most stoves.

YES, Too much draft starts pulling air thru the hopper, causing the flames to burn farther back on the grate, thus burning up into the hopper.

That is what the baro damper does, it controls the draft on the stove itself. When the draft starts to go up, the Baro OPENS to reduce the draft on the stove and pull air from the room.

You would still set it up the same way, put the sense point from the gauge between the Stove and Baro and adjust accordingly.

Do you have the RC Baro with the Weight on the Right? if mounted vertically? There are numbers on teh weight to get you approx. close. It should be around the 2-4 range (.02 to .04) range.

feedingpete · Post by **feedingpete** » Wed. Mar. 04, 2009 6:36 am

ok, I adjusted the baro. damper so when both burners are on, it's .02. it's pretty much wide open with the draft inducer on but What do ya know, it seems to be working pretty good. It got down to around 0 deg. last night and the house stayed warm.

So now in my continuing quest to get this set up so it's most efficient, I have adjusted my t.stat so much that I'm not sure were it started... any clues? Also, trying to controle the temp in my house is seeming to be difficult, within 4-6 degrees. Can I change from the t.stat that came with it to a digital t.stat? If so what would you suggest?

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Wed. Mar. 04, 2009 7:04 am

If it's just a Round type Honeywell that operates on 24VAC, shouldn't be a problem changing it to Digital...

feedingpete · Post by **feedingpete** » Wed. Mar. 04, 2009 12:27 pm

I think it might be specific to the furnace?... the only thing on it is "LUX PRO"

Kungur · Post by **Kungur** » Wed. Mar. 04, 2009 5:25 pm

I switch out that stat with a Honeywell programable from Amazom. I think it was about $30. So far I have used it as a regular stat. I am a bit dense trying to understand how to program it!