Do I Really Need a Baro Damper?

CHICKENBOY · Post by **CHICKENBOY** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 4:10 pm

As you may have noticed from some of my other few posts, I am new to all of this. I recently installed a USSC Hotblast 1300 in my garage to use it mostly for weekend heat or unless it gets really cold. I've just started using Anth. coal for the first time and seems to be working ok. My question is do I need a Baro Damper? If I don't really care if the temp fluctuates a little, or if I use a little more fuel than I have to. Is their only purpose to keep a very steady burn, or is there some safety factors that I'm not aware of.

coal berner · Post by **coal berner** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 4:49 pm

CHICKENBOY wrote:As you may have noticed from some of my other few posts, I am new to all of this. I recently installed a USSC Hotblast 1300 in my garage to use it mostly for weekend heat or unless it gets really cold. I've just started using Anth. coal for the first time and seems to be working ok. My question is do I need a Baro Damper? If I don't really care if the temp fluctuates a little, or if I use a little more fuel than I have to. Is their only purpose to keep a very steady burn, or is there some safety factors that I'm not aware of.

If your burning wood in it you can not use a baro do to if you happend to have a chimney fire there will be no way to shut the air down to help put the fire out in your case a manual damper would be better and safer .

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 5:32 pm

It helps control the draft when burning coal, it keeps a constant draft on the stove and keeps the heat in, instead of going up the chimney, my stove runs 50-100 degrees warmer when it's adjusted correctly.

CHICKENBOY · Post by **CHICKENBOY** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 6:36 pm

Thanks guys, I'm glad I asked cause I am going to burn wood also.

GRinRI · Post by **GRinRI** » Tue. Mar. 03, 2009 11:14 pm

The important thing is that a baro will keep your stove from overfiring in windy conditions. The wind will create exessive draft but the baro will controll how much of that air is drawn through the coal bed. It will also control the stove from what I call "running away" from you. The hotter the exaust in the chimny, the more it will draw on the stove without a baro which makes hotter exaust gasses. Catch 22. Your coal stove will run better and safer with a baro.
If you are going to use the stove for wood, block the baro. I use a magnet to keep it closed while stoking. If you've burned a lot of wood in your stove, check your stovepipe for creosote before running a coal fire.

CHICKENBOY · Post by **CHICKENBOY** » Wed. Mar. 04, 2009 7:17 am

Ok,,, so it is ok to use a baro while burning wood as long as I have a way to fix the damper in case of a chimney fire?

Post by **coaledsweat** » Wed. Mar. 04, 2009 12:39 pm

When burning wood, pull the baro and cap the pipe. The creosote will stick to the baro's blade on the back and cripple it if you don't.

coal berner · Post by **coal berner** » Wed. Mar. 04, 2009 12:44 pm

Or you can stick with burning Anthracite coal and forget the wood all together then there would be no need to remove block or cover the baro . Or Just use a manual damper to control the draft

lowfog01 · Post by **lowfog01** » Thu. Mar. 05, 2009 5:30 am

[quote="CHICKENBOY"] My question is do I need a Baro Damper? quote]

No you don't really need a baro. You can burn coal without one but why would you? It will provide you a better heat and save you money in the long run. The cost is minimal and the installation easy. I've only had mine in for a week and already I see a major improvement with a decrease in the amount of coal I'm using and an increase in the length of burns. The more consistent burn is also producing less ash, a lot less ash. I can't wait for winter to be over so I can see how it's going to help me manage the fire on those chilly spring days. You know, when you need a quiet fire but nothing more. I think that's when the baro will pay for itself. Lisa

CHICKENBOY · Post by **CHICKENBOY** » Thu. Mar. 05, 2009 6:49 pm

Thanks for your info lofog. I have no opposition in installing one, just wondered if they were only for specific situations or just make an all around a better system, and if it was ok to use with wood. If you don't mind me asking, I see you have quite a few posts. Why have you only had a baro for a week?

lowfog01 · Post by **lowfog01** » Thu. Mar. 05, 2009 7:26 pm

CHICKENBOY wrote: Why have you only had a baro for a week?

I only found this forum this in late NOV and then I didn't pick up on the need for a baro until DEC.

I can be slow at times.

Then I couldn't find one locally in the DC area so I had to find one on the internet. Then the only one Field Control baro I could find was for $80 which I thought was outlandish.

I just couldn't bring myself to spend that much especially at Christmas. Then some forum member gave me the name and website of a dealer that carried it for much less so I ordered it but it never came. I felt I should wait a week or two to make sure the first one didn't come - I had the purchase order but had never received a confirmation. Why I just didn't call that company is another story. That baro never came and my credit card was never charged so I ordered another from Patriot Supply of Long Island. I got it last Thursday but had to spend several days chasing down first a black pipe T and then a 24 inch straight piece. You'd be surprised who doesn't carry those items in the DC area! I finally got everything together and shut my fire down on Sat. The installation was very easy and I am glad to have the additional tool in my quest to have the most efficient burning fire possible. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Lisa