Shut Down and Cleaning Coal Boiler

New to burning coal, or wood for that matter, in a "boiler". Have a New Yorker WC90, and would like it to last and last.

Owner's manual says lots of stuff that makes sense... fact, see?

My question, as posed to me in an email by another list member, is about "neutral mineral oil". I know mineral oil has a very high flash point, and isn't that flammable. Using mineral oil makes sense from a safety standpoint, as the first fire could be "adventurous" if any lubricant with a lower flashpoint and vapor hazard were used. "BOOM!!" is a concern with anything having a vapor point and flashpoint that is lower.

Are the referring to the stuff in the bottle at the drug store, or is it generally available at auto parts store under say, "compressor oil", or even a petroleum based "brake fluid"? I know brake fluid and clutch fluid used to be pure mineral oil, and it is sometimes recommended for "certain" applications.

Thanks in advance...
Leon

I am also going to prop open the barometric damper to cut down on cold, humid air, being drafted through the boiler firebox and condensing on the surface of the heat exchanger.... where it would promptly rust it to the point where it would grow hair...

For summer storage, many of us clean it out and use LPS-3 rust inhibitor (Kinda like WD40 but better).

Here is a little story I wrote for some of my corn boiler pals last season

Some found it amusing -- others found some good advice!

...........................................................

Congrats - you made it a whole season an how many ton did you burn?

So its time to share end of season boiler pickle recipes or how to can for next season! I love cooking - when all I need to do is consume.

Drink heavily - dress appropriately - put on safety glasses and wear your non toxic particle mask so you don't sneeze all over your work

and begin with a scrape and a brush of the fire tubes as best as you can

use the flue scrapers and brushes I recommend or what ever you have, but get that crust out now - it will be a bitch next fall to do. Ill say that again - go back and brush some more unless they are slick, they shine and are clean. At some point you may just give up - but when you think you done - rub them once more!!!!

Move on to the upper smoke tin work brush that clean - you can use a wire wheel on your drill if you want but stay away from the snap switch with power tools - do that by hand. Take a hand wire brush and cut it short so you only have about two inches of bristle - use it like a tooth brush around each fire tube on the vessel manifold of the upper smoke chamber. Inspect all the door gaskets - get some new rope seal and furnace cement to replace it as necessary and close any cracks you find in the tin work.

In the fire chamber pull the pot run or vac all the fuel out of the feed screw system and the chamber. Clean out the appliance bin - inspect the feed cups for excessive wear. Pull out the ash pan brush down the refractory but clean that lower vessel manifold as best as you can - usually a stiff toilet brush is enough but if you have the stones - get in there with your "tooth brush" and clean around each fire tube to bare steel.

Carefully scrape off the material easily removed form the turbulators - no need to go nuts on these. Also wire brush the burn pots nice and inspect them for cracks - have them repaired by a certified welder after he relieves the crack ends with drill and grinder.

OK everything clean???? Find some LPS3 in aerosol cans ( or bulk if you have other equipment to protect)
**Broken Link(s) Removed**and spray everything you just brushed - It will creep so don't soak - spray and let it creep - spray some more tomorrow if it hasn't moved enough to cover and protect everything. don't forget to spray inside the smoke pipes.

Put it all back together and place a trouble lamp with a 50 watt bulb inside the fire chamber - close the door to the cord - that heat is enough to drive off condensation and keep it dry.

in a couple weeks -disconnect the smoke pipe so the damp basement air doesn't draft all summer thru the appliance - by then the LPS smell will have abated up the chimney with draft and your basement won't stink.

Relax - have a beverage - wait for next season - the first burn will smoke a bit but draft will pull it away if you pre heat the chimney with a crumpled news paper fire or a hair dryer - just start with the turbulators out and let it burn off up the stack then let it cool put the turbulators back in play and burn them off.

Some say the trouble light is over kill - the LPS is enough - but at the price of a new vessel -a couple of wasted watts is cheep insurance.

Kind Regards
Sting

My only concern, as I said in my original post, is this...

From the MSDS on the product.

Flammability

LPS 3® Premier Rust Inhibitor Aerosol is flammable, having a flash point below 70F. Under normal use conditions
flammability isn’t a concern, but don’t spray the product near or around ignition sources.

Frm the MSDS on mineral oil:

Fire:
Flash point: 135C (275F) CC
Autoignition temperature: 260 - 370C (500 - 698F)

One definitely produces flammable vapors, and burns easily, and one doesn't.

I think I am going to go with the mineral oil, considering the flammability data and my desire to keep my eyebrows and house in good repair.

I do appreciate the replies and information.
Thanks,
Leon