Fasco Centrifugal Blower Kicking Off ...

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Gary in Pennsylvania
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Post by Gary in Pennsylvania » Sat. Oct. 28, 2006 8:19 am

Ok Ok. So I'm a little behind. I live just outside Scranton, Pa and I fired up the burner for the first time this season just yesterday.

I bought my house three years ago. I instantly fell in love with the coal heat. I was just learning how to work the Harman and would frequently starve the fire or accidentally let it soar to 500 degrees according to the stick-on magnet thermometer stuck to the box.
Through all that, my thermally protected fan never kicked off.

Then last season, I noticed that the fan would trip off often ( for my taste, at least ). I'd say that between Oct of last year thru March of this year, it kicked off 10 times (that I know of). Why? I don't like that.

THEN......I light 'er up last night. All was fine (I'm a pro with starting and regulating now). When I came down this morning to sit in front of it with my coffee........The motor kicked off right as I sat there! Temp gauge on the box read only 225 degrees. Inside the fire looked normal.......red bed with the dark top layer just doing it's thing. I felt the motor and yup, it was very hot!

I slide it out and put it on the back deck for 1/2 hour to cool it off.
It's back on right now and running. But I hate that it's kicking off! That isn't safe, is it? It certainly isn't heating my home well when it's off.

Here's the stats:
Fasco Centrifugal Blower model# 50752-D500
http://tinyurl.com/ykd73k This will give the dimensions
The dataplate says the motor is 2,800rpm and it has that model number, but the Fasco website says 135cfm @ 3,100rmp.

Is my model old and in need of replacement?
What should I do?

Thanks!

Gary in Pennsylvania

 
timberman
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Post by timberman » Sat. Oct. 28, 2006 8:58 am

Well Gary without actually looking at it, it is hard to say, but I can give you some info. Since you have it out and deenergized, reach inside and give it a spin. If it doesn't spin freely, thats a sign that its most likely shot. Most of these little electric motors have bushings not bearings in them which makes them throw aways (my personal terms). If it spins freely another test would be to get an amp meter (clamp type) put it on one of the conductors and take an amp reading. Don't do this if you don't know what your doing! It should say on the name plate how many amps it should pull. If the reading is high it shows a problem. The only other way to really know is to run what they call a Baker test which requires an expensive tester. Sometimes you can lube the bushings and get a little more out of the motor, but for piece of mind look for a replacement. Its not worth a risk to family or property. Hope this ramble helps a little. Warning! It only takes 3 milliamps to cause death or severe injury!

 
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Post by LsFarm » Sat. Oct. 28, 2006 11:19 am

Excellent advice timberman. Almost exactly what I was going to post in a reply.

I do have a slightly different twist on the issue though. I'm thinking that if the overheat has been kicking off the motor for over a full season, then the issue probably is lack of lubrication to the motor's bearings or bushings. Or obstructions in the fan or stove.

My take is that if it were an electrical issue with the motor's windings or armature, I would think that it either would have completely failed, or mushroom-clouded by now.

I'd advise checking the fan for too much dust, animal hair, mouse nests etc. And make sure the motor spins freely, lubricate and try it again.

But for peace of mind, order a replacement motor or blower unit anyway. It is a good feeling to have a spare on the shelf.

Do a google search for 'blower fan' I found a company specializing in replacement units. Sometimes a google search for the part number works too. Shop around, prices vary wildly.

Greg L

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Tue. Nov. 07, 2006 1:06 pm



 
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Post by Matthaus » Tue. Nov. 07, 2006 2:17 pm

I have purchased a couple blowers from electric motor wharehouse (the company referenced in the amazon link). One of the items I purchased was a combustion fan for my Keystoker, identical replacement part at 45% off! Aside from ebay they have been the cheapest. They also have excellent customer service, the units were here in three days and I accidently ordered a 240VAC unit by mistake and they took it back no questions asked.

 
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Gary in Pennsylvania
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Post by Gary in Pennsylvania » Wed. Nov. 08, 2006 7:22 am

Thanks for all the replies!

I've been holding off on my "Do I Buy???" decision and giving the current blower another chance. Aside from that single instance when it kicked off with me sitting in front of it.......It hasn't behaved that way since ( while running continuously ). All seems ok now.

But if it starts acting up again....I know where to go. Thanks!

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Wed. Nov. 08, 2006 5:45 pm

Just curious Gary, did you check it out for free spin, lubricate it or find any dust or hair obstructing the cooling vents??

Is the motor still hot to the touch?? Warm is ok, too hot to leave your hand on it I would think is too hot.

Greg L

 
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Gary in Pennsylvania
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Post by Gary in Pennsylvania » Thu. Nov. 09, 2006 8:09 am

OK. It spins freely without any unusual sounds ( actually...none ). I did try and lubricate it once ( last year ) the best I could using CLP ( For all you non-Army folks...that's Break Free ). And there is nothing immediately noticeable that is blocking airflow.

And with this unusually warm weather we're getting in the northeast.....I haven't really had the stove crankin' hard yet....but when it does ( outside box magnet temp reads 350-ish degrees ) then that motor gets VERY hot. NOT from mechanical friction...but from the heat transmitted from the box.

Is that normal?


 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Thu. Nov. 09, 2006 8:18 am

Can you install a heat shield between the box and the motor? Anything will help. Just don't block air flow around the motor.

I'm thinking a piece of sheet steel between the hot stove box and the motor. Even an inch of space on either side of the shield will help a lot.

Or you can get a small fan, like about 4"-6" from radio shack or McMasters and blow some cooling air on the motor. It sounds like the motor is getting cooked by radiant heat form the stove box.

Just some ideas Greg L

 
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CO Inhaler
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Post by CO Inhaler » Tue. Nov. 14, 2006 12:41 pm

First time post, new member....

...Gary, I don't mean to hijack your post a bit, but does anyone know of alternate blowers from Fasco? Alternate, in the sense of efficiency electricity consumption. Perhaps this subject was covered in another post.

I have a Harman Magnum and am just looking for alternates to the Fasco, that may use less juice with the same CFM flow.

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Tue. Nov. 14, 2006 5:11 pm

Hello CO. Welcome to the forum.

I don't know any specific places to go for more energy efficient motors.

However, when I went looking for a combustion blower for my boiler, I found many sites with a google search.

Try these search requests on google:

fan
blower
combustion blower
heat circulator
replacement fan
'' blower
boiler motor
furnace fan
wood stove blower
wood furnace fan
etc. etc.

I also found with a search for wood and coal stoves, that many
sites have a parts list and sales link. I found some pretty interesting
items for sale.

If I find one of the better sites I'll post a link for it.

Hope this helps. Greg L

.

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