KAA-2 up and Running for 2 Weeks Now

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efo141
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Post by efo141 » Tue. Mar. 17, 2009 12:55 pm

Here's some pics of my Kaa-2 (running for two weeks now) and my New Yorker hand fired than I started in mid Nov. I wanted to use the rest of my coal in the hand fired before I fired the kaa-2 but it looks like ill burn the rest of it next winter.(3/4 of a ton left + more free nut coal coming from a neighbor)
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Fire at idle

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6 turns out on the feed and 3 pins every 10 mins on the timer
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Fire at about mid burn

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Manometer connection

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Left over brake line for the manometer connection

 
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sterling40man
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker K6

Post by sterling40man » Tue. Mar. 17, 2009 1:10 pm

Congrats Ed! Nice set-up. Is that buck coal?

 
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efo141
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Post by efo141 » Tue. Mar. 17, 2009 1:14 pm

The Keystoker by-pass does help with over shoot with my setup.
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By-pass loop

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If anyone is sick of keystoker's cheap ass spring door handle jabbing into your hand, try a old oil burner electrode.
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efo141
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Post by efo141 » Tue. Mar. 17, 2009 1:16 pm

sterling_40man wrote:Congrats Ed! Nice set-up. Is that buck coal?
Thank's Bob, Its from Superior Coal 50/50 buck/rice mix.
Last edited by efo141 on Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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stovepipemike
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Post by stovepipemike » Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 8:01 am

Ed~ Please don't ever get on here and complain about a cool room anywhere, since you have enough fossil power there for half the neighborhood!! Nicely done install. I am wondering if Keystoker Kaa-2 outer sheet metal panels have to go on the boiler first before any piping is done or are they split to capture the piping? Thanks for posting the install pictures,always a help. Regards, Mike

 
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efo141
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Post by efo141 » Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 10:51 am

stovepipemike wrote: I am wondering if Keystoker Kaa-2 outer sheet metal panels have to go on the boiler first before any piping is done or are they split to capture the piping?


Mike,The top panel is split. You can do all your piping before the panels go on, but the stack end panel needs to go on before you install the exh. stack. The aquastat wells can go in, but the aquastats have to go on after the panels. Just like other members have said before, keep your blocks out far enough for the panels to sit on. I had to enlarge the exh. stack hole for things to line up right. Also, when you tighten the 2 bolts on the hopper it will push all you panels towards the stack end. I used longer bolts and washers to solve that.


 
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efo141
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Post by efo141 » Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 11:55 am

stovepipemike wrote:Ed~ Please don't ever get on here and complain about a cool room anywhere, since you have enough fossil power there for half the neighborhood!!
I am going to start laying some pex to the neighbors and charging per B.T.U., I just need a few B.T.U meters, do you know where I can get these? :lol: My plan was to sell the hand fired boiler when I got the Keystoker, but don't think I could get the money that I paid for it this time of the year. Plus I have close to a ton of pea and nut coal I bought for $80 a ton and more free nut coal coming from a person in town that wants it out of his garage.

Ed

 
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Yanche
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea

Post by Yanche » Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 12:07 pm

efo141 wrote:I am going to start laying some pex to the neighbors and charging per B.T.U., I just need a few B.T.U meters, do you know where I can get these? :lol:
I don't think you are serious, but measuring supply and return temperatures and pressures plus knowing the circulator pump curve you can calculate the delivered BTU. You don't need a flow meter. :-)

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Thu. Mar. 19, 2009 8:34 am

efo141 wrote:I am going to start laying some pex to the neighbors and charging per B.T.U.,
Ed
haha, I thought of that once. I could have the central heating plant for the neighborhood and I could charge for heating the neighbors. :D Seems like too much time/materials involved.

 
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efo141
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Post by efo141 » Thu. Mar. 19, 2009 9:25 am

Yanche wrote:
efo141 wrote:I am going to start laying some pex to the neighbors and charging per B.T.U., I just need a few B.T.U meters, do you know where I can get these? :lol:
I don't think you are serious, but measuring supply and return temperatures and pressures plus knowing the circulator pump curve you can calculate the delivered BTU. You don't need a flow meter. :-)
Yanche, I was joking but if I were to start a project like this, the first thing I would do is hire you to engineer it.

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