Garage Door - Operner ripped harness off!!

I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to fix this issue. The other day a metal screw fell out of the metal harness that attaches my Garage door to the opener. Well I put the screw back in but in doing so I accidently lined the pull up incorrectly and didn’t check it. Next time I open the door it ripped the entire harness off and all 3 screws. What’s the best way to fix this short of getting a new top panel?

It is a steel door that is hollow inside of course. The metal on the door was ripped back so the screws won’t grip any longer.

I was thinking about attaching a new piece of sheet metal over the area and then attaching the screws to that new piece of sheet metal. I was also wondering about using Bondo.

Any suggestions?

It may not be as pretty, but I would fabricate or have fabricated a pair of flat aluminum plates pre drilled to anchor themselves to the door and then calculate the mounting locations for the old screw location. I hate to use those supplied screws and prefer to use stainless bolts or galvies if you like. They will never fall out again, and you can paint the plates to match the door color. (ahead of time!)
If you are the anal retentative type that must have it as original....and perfect.....then buy a new panel and wait for it to happen again. If you are nosey, look at the garage doors in your area and look for a couple flat heads countersunk into the top of the door. Usually for the garage door opener. The ball is in your court. PS: If you don't like Aluminum, you can use steel or SS. I am amazed at the level of ingenuity the forum members share.

billlindley wrote:

I was thinking about attaching a new piece of sheet metal over the area and then attaching the screws to that new piece of sheet metal. I was also wondering about using Bondo.

Any suggestions?

Make a new piece of sheet metal that is larger than the damaged area ( 3"- 4" larger each way ).

Aluminum 1/4" plate will be strong enough and is very easy to cut and drill.

Through bolt the lifting arm to the aluminum plate and then fasten the plate to the door with 6-8 new screws. Make sure it is lined up in the right place.

Bondo has no strength or adhesive properties.

Make yourself a "T" bracket out of 1/8" aluminum flat stock 12" across and 12" down the get a few carriage bolts and go from the outside to the inside and fasten the "T" you just made. Make the width of the "T" the same as the part your bolting it to 2 1/2 to 3" that way you'll have max. strength for future problems.

Bill S.

First off the opener (if not super old) has a pressure adjustment and should not of ripped it out. Do you have a broken spring? The best way to repair it so it lasts forever is through bolt it. You said the door is hollow and not insulated. Cut pc 2x4 and fill the void between the stile and the door. Use liquid nails between the 2. Use 2 - 5/16 carritage bolts 2 1/2" long and put a washer outside that the square part of the carrage will sit into flat. Usally a 3/8" flat washer. Paint the head and washer to match the door. Of course this info is without seeing what you acually have.

Or... Call overhead door and have a blank check ready. A BIG one!

I agree with the plate idea. A new piece of sheet metal screwed to or through, attach to the new metal.

If you call an 'door company', you should purchase a 55 gallon drum of KY Jelly first. Most won't take the time even for a kiss, and you'll be sore for years, especially when you keep recalling the event every year. I hate to meet you three years from now and see you still sitting on a 'rubber doughnut'.

Show us some pics of the damaged area. Ithink the plate Idea may be the best one but I need to see the door so I can suggest a proper place to mount the repair plate. I am going along with the trend of thought that either you spring is broken maladjusted or weak from age. I know the wayne daulton doors have an adjustable tensioner which allow the user to set the proper tension. In reality you should be able to lift the door with one finger if the spring rate is set properly.

Lift up the door by hand. How heavy is it? 10lbs or 100lbs? Broken or misadjusted spring is that easy to detect.

I would just get a piece of steel and rivet/screw it over the damaged area then attach the harness to it.

Thanks for the responses. I can post a picture tonight when I get home. I need to remember to do that before I create these posts to avoid any confusion. After the suggestions of many and the fear of KY I am going to go with the Aluminum plate idea. I will still post a pic tonight so you can see exactly what I did. The springs are fine and the door is new (Garage enclosed with new door 2-2008). I will have to check on the pressure adjuster, I did install the opener myself so perhaps I overlooked that or didn't set it correctly when I installed it.

Thanks again for all the help

Bill, we have those issues frequently. Some times a frozen down door seal will cause it, even though the safety adjustment says it won't. I forgot to ask if it was a steel or aluminum door, but either way, you may be able to get by with only an interior plate or angle iron. We do some work for 3 condo projects in the area, and have hundreds of garage door adjustments to make; replacement doors; ripped out sections; smashed bottom panels, etc. We would like to see them made of 3/4" steel plate with 20 hp 3 phase motors on the operators, but that probably won't occur any time soon. I hope you get it repaired to your satisfaction today.

Here's my hillbilly setup. C'mon don't laugh it's been working for years. Both gdo's given to me by customers. By the way, while you're at the hardware store, maybe pick up a safety cable set to run through your springs, when they break they can shoot through your garage like rpg's...