KAA2,KA6 Inline With Heat Exchanger in Hot Air Furnance?

mcgills443 · Post by **mcgills443** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 8:47 am

Hi everyone,

I looking at buying a keystoker boiler and was looking for some info. Does anyone heat with a keystoker, in line with their hot air furnance/exchanger? I have a 80,000 BTU heat exchanger now.

Complete Heat · Post by **Complete Heat** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 9:07 am

Use the KA-6, the 2 will be too small. I am using an Axeman Anderson 130 with a 85k BTU coil in my duct work, and it is great.

Mike

mcgills443 · Post by **mcgills443** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 12:45 pm

Complete Heat wrote:Use the KA-6, the 2 will be too small. I am using an Axeman Anderson 130 with a 85k BTU coil in my duct work, and it is great.

Mike

Complete Heat,

Thank you for the info. How do you have your system set up.I currently have a small wood boiler that I'm going to be replacing with a keystoker. I currently have 1 zone which runs from the boiler in the garage to the house furnance,and back through breezeway to boiler. I heat the breezeway with the returning water going through a 8' baseboard. I had to fine tune several compent in my heating system to get the most effiency out of it. Do you have your cirr. pump running constant? Do you have a problem with the fan kicking on when the plentum gets to hot? I do ,and on warm days heats the house up too much. I run my cirr. pump steady but I might have to change that because the furnance keeps kicking on due to the temp getting to high and the snap disc kicking on the blower fan. Any suggestions?? Any would be helpful. Thank you, Good day.

Sting · Post by **Sting** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 6:32 pm

wire the house stat to call the boiler pump to action -- that brings energy from the boiler to the air handler and HX. Place a strap on aquastat wired to close on temperature rise so that when the HX gets above 140 then the air handler blows hot air

be sure the blower pushes thru the exchanger - not pulls thru for longevity of the blower motor.

Use an Ice cube relay -- or the equivalent to isolate this from the factory furnace controls

When the house stat is satisfied it will stop the circulator -- the HX in the air handler will grow cold - the blower will stop and the system will repeat as necessary

not the best - but simple and ez to do almost with what you have.

Wire another house thermostat to the factory furnace and set it to the lowest temperature that will still keep the house -- if the boiler fails or some part of the wet system -- the furnace will be called to duty - keeping the house from freezing up! If the circulator is running the furnace will also heat the hx and this will provide frost/burst protection for the cold out door boiler.

mcgills443 · Post by **mcgills443** » Sat. Mar. 21, 2009 10:54 pm

Sting,

Thank You for your reply, It was helpful. I will be using all info to set up my new boiler soon. Thanks again. Good day

Complete Heat · Post by **Complete Heat** » Tue. Mar. 24, 2009 10:43 pm

I have an AA-130 with several zones. I have one zone for the main heat in the house. That zone is a 85k BTU heat coil installed above the blower on my forced hot air (propane) furnace. The circulator only kicks on when there is a demand for heat, and the blower on the furnace only kicks on when there is enough heat in the coil. A strap on aquastat handles that function. The other zones are baseboard heat and are simple. I might be adding the pool to the boiler with a flat plate heat exchanger. Real simple, works great, saves a ton of money.

Mike