Removing paint from radiators.

You can make a 'tank' of any size with plastic sheet.
I like the tip for paint removal along with converting rust!

how bout an old school machine shop. hot tank it like a 12V-71 or a big block ford. ( those fords always needed rebuilding anyway!!)

Coalbin how do you hook the battery charger up to the water tank? Just immerse both negative and positive leads in the water and power up? How many amps? How long? This wont damage the charger? Are we talking baking soda?

Poconoeagle wrote: ok il'l bite its a B-100 hood circa 1976??? another wheel nut

Very close - C-100 8 Speed - in progress

I have 12 red tractors ranging from '58 RJ to an '81 D-250 w/loader, grapple & power steering + some other 'off brand' tractors. They seem to multiply

Sandblasting is the way to go. If sandblasting services are in short supply in your area, check with a tombstone company. They sand blast the names on the headstones. The local tombstone companies that engrave their own are dying out too (pun intended). But they still need to add the death dates to existing tombstones.

You can automate sandblasting. It's called sand tumbling. Basically you take a large drum of the blasting media put your parts in it and rotate it slowly for a couple of days.

Here is a link that explains in detail how to remove rust (says it works on paint also) by electrolysis. Good luck.

Jeff

http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Pete69 wrote:Coalbin how do you hook the battery charger up to the water tank? Just immerse both negative and positive leads in the water and power up? How many amps? How long? This wont damage the charger? Are we talking baking soda?

I use old saw blades as electrodes. I also have a commercial fish cooler ( 6'x3'x4'tall ) for the larger stuff

Negative goes on the object, positive on the blades ( you need some kind of steel plates to complete the circuit) I added some blades hanging into the frame cavity - its pretty much a line of sight process. You need "washing soda" - kind from the supermarket for $3 - some people also use molassis etc. Baking soda does not work - I also add some detergent as a degreaser. If you are removing rust/paint - I leave it in over night. For just stripping paint - a few hours will do.

I would not use one of those expensive new fangled computerized auto chargers - just your cheap run of the mill 12 or 15 amp charger. I run my big tank with an industrial power supply - but thats because I like to really see it bubble.

PS - you can also use an old computer power supply - the 5 volt output will even work - most have more than enough amps.

I only cabinet blast small parts now. ( or if they are not steel - don't use ERR for aluminum,copper or brass) Once your discover & perfect ERR - life is good - it saves so much time, effort & resources.

Make sure you capture the paint chips, it could be LEAD paint, the older paints contain lead and you don't want it blowing around.

WNY wrote:Make sure you capture the paint chips, it could be LEAD paint, the older paints contain lead and you don't want it blowing around.

That goes double if you use heat to remove the paint. You need real respritory protection. Breathing vaporized lead makes you stupid pretty fast.

Harbour Freight sells a very affordable portable sand-blaster you use with an air compressor. Just another option.....

If you have a good air compressor I`d just buy a blasting tank (harbor freight, HD, lowes) they all have them, just get yourself a good resperator & use cheap playsand outside, fast & easy.

The electrolysis process is used by museums when restoring rusted iron items. Since it's effectiveness depends on the circuit path between the rusted item and the electrode you can be selective by shaping an electrode, usually something like hardware cloth, and placing it close to the rusted area.

Ahhah! Vaporized lead....now we know the excuse the "Stoker Dandy" is gonna use! He must have just been exposed to it only recently, because my background checks show that he was a perfectly respectable, even talented electrical contractor, now general contractor....who has drifted off toward the oblique, and now has some sort of fetish for coal burning equipment. Perhaps he just whacked his head entering an old coal bin..... and found that he really liked it. He has gone multinational recently, and it has expanded the 'Stoker Scott' trademark to nearly every form of revenue making idea available today.
He MUST listen to forum members about the safest paint removal method for old multi-layered, lead paint encrusted radiators.
Remember, there is nothing for nothing in this world, and the cost of sandblasting is the cost of doing the job right, the first time.

CoalBin wrote:If you are looking to DIY - take a look at Electrolytic Rust Removal. Works great on rust - but what I found is that hands down, it takes paint off better than any other method I've ever tried. The paint literally sheets off - what ever is left comes off easily with a power washer. With a radiator you will need a bin that covers at least half of it at a time - then flip it to do the other half. (or build a larger tank) I do my tractor hoods and convector covers like this. I've tried grinders, wire wheels & chemicals & have a hefty compressor / blast cabinet combo - but if it fits in the bin - thats where it always goes. Basically fill bin with water, put some washing soda in it, immerse item, connect it up to a battery charger or other power source & walk away.

After its done, you can get a gallon of Phos Etch metal prep from Home Depot & apply with a spray bottle to prevent flash rust form forming.

Hey that looks like an old wheelhorse.I restored mine(1967) about 9 years ago.Mower,blower and all.Haven't had a lick of trouble with mine.Great old tractors.

Nothing works like sandblasting.Rember you only do it 1 time and your done.
DON