Jotul 507...Repair Tips? Thoughts? Ideas?
- Freddy
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I just came into possession of two Jotul 507's. They are an all cast iron stove, about 12" square & 34" tall. They have firebrick in the burn chamber, and above the brick are cast iron liners. These liners lean inward at a bit of an angle and leave a space between them and the side of the stove. It's like they direct the flames toward the center. Well, the back ones are bad. The sides ones aren't great and if they were $20 each I'd replace them also. They are $70 each. If absolutely necessary I'll replace them but am looking for thoughts and ideas of repair or other replacement. Basically they have holes burned through them. Obviously the stoves were used as are, but, well, I need to do something. Might I simply fill the area with refractory cement or stove cement? How about build new ones from plate steel? It's also a good shot to cut firebrick and just extend the bricks below them up to the height of what was cast iron. What'ya think? If I did the firebrick I'd also do the rear in firebrick.
- coalkirk
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Freddy,
These are not suposed to be leaning toward the center. They should be flat against the cast iron body of the stove. They interlock and hold themselves in place. I'm guessing yours got disrupted in moving the stoves.
These are not suposed to be leaning toward the center. They should be flat against the cast iron body of the stove. They interlock and hold themselves in place. I'm guessing yours got disrupted in moving the stoves.
Fred, I have used Rutland Furnace Cement many times, in my new DVC-500 and my FireplaceXtrordinaire. It really is the "miracle cure" for most liner/firebrick issues. It will withstand 2000F. http://www.rutland.com I bought it at Tractor Supply Company, but I assume Home Depot or Lowes have their own versions.Freddy wrote:Might I simply fill the area with refractory cement or stove cement? How about build new ones from plate steel? It's also a good shot to cut firebrick and just extend the bricks below them up to the height of what was cast iron. What'ya think? If I did the firebrick I'd also do the rear in firebrick.
I have glued firebrick together with this.
- the snowman
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Freddy:
The upper cast pieces are not suppose to lean inward. They are suppose to lie flat against the outer cast. They interlock holding each other in place. I have been thinking of ways to eliminate the expensive upper castings with something more durable. I have thought about making a form and pouring in refactory cement. It would create a one piece upper fire brick. I also have been thinking about cutting a fire brick or making a form and pour my own fire brick to replace the cast insert behind the middle door. This insert takes a beating during the heating season. I think putting a cast piece like that in the hottest part of the burn pot was a mistake. It should be fire brick. I have also thought of cutting fire brick to install above the existing brick. I would want to mitre cut them so they fit nice and then maybe use refactory cement or stove cement to hold them together so they don't move. The plate steel is a good idea as well, however, I believe the brick is better. With brick you can load the stove without fear of burning through the steel. I routinely load my stove above the brick, however, I make the coal form a cone so it does not burn against any of the upper cast liners. Keep me posted as to what you decide to use and how it looks and works.
The snowman.
The upper cast pieces are not suppose to lean inward. They are suppose to lie flat against the outer cast. They interlock holding each other in place. I have been thinking of ways to eliminate the expensive upper castings with something more durable. I have thought about making a form and pouring in refactory cement. It would create a one piece upper fire brick. I also have been thinking about cutting a fire brick or making a form and pour my own fire brick to replace the cast insert behind the middle door. This insert takes a beating during the heating season. I think putting a cast piece like that in the hottest part of the burn pot was a mistake. It should be fire brick. I have also thought of cutting fire brick to install above the existing brick. I would want to mitre cut them so they fit nice and then maybe use refactory cement or stove cement to hold them together so they don't move. The plate steel is a good idea as well, however, I believe the brick is better. With brick you can load the stove without fear of burning through the steel. I routinely load my stove above the brick, however, I make the coal form a cone so it does not burn against any of the upper cast liners. Keep me posted as to what you decide to use and how it looks and works.
The snowman.
- Freddy
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The cast piece in the middle door must work OK. Both are in good shape. I see the one on eBay has had a hot supper though. He sent me some pics.
Yaaa, I like the idea of miter cutting brick for the top. They'd lock right in and work well I think.
Yes, the liners don't lean in...just the way they had rotted away made them look that way. I think the back liner should have been taller. If I use brick or pour custom brick I'll surely make the back taller.
Yaaa, I like the idea of miter cutting brick for the top. They'd lock right in and work well I think.
Yes, the liners don't lean in...just the way they had rotted away made them look that way. I think the back liner should have been taller. If I use brick or pour custom brick I'll surely make the back taller.
- grizzly2
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Freddy, The thin cast iron top and back liners in my Jotul 3 woodstove both warped badly. I replaced them with 3/16" plate steel. I welded lengths of angle iron to the upper side of the top plate to reinforce the plate. I think they also act as cooling fins. The back pannel has no reinforcement. After many years with the home made top plate and one season on the back plate I have had not warpage. I don't know how they would hold up if used in a coal firebox. I'd give it a try if I were you. But then I enjoy working with steel.
If I recall past posts correctly, you are a metal worker by proffesion and/or hobby, correct?
Grizz
If I recall past posts correctly, you are a metal worker by proffesion and/or hobby, correct?
Grizz
- Freddy
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
- Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined
Grizz... yaaa.... It's not my profession, but I enjoy making steel do what I ask. Hmmmm... I have some 1/2" plate in stock, maybe I'll try it & see how they hold up. Gotta be worth a try. The liners are $209 for a set of three. I can play with a lot of steel for that!
The back liner really stops a bit short. I'd like to make it go all the way to the outlet instead of stopping 3" before it.
The back liner really stops a bit short. I'd like to make it go all the way to the outlet instead of stopping 3" before it.
- the snowman
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- Coal Size/Type: Nut, Stove coal, Egg coal
Freddy:
Your correct concerning the back plate. It should be a lot taller. When I refurbish my one Jotul I will have brick all the way under the deflector plate. As for the cast piece behind the middle door; I have been firing my stove at a temp of 875 F 24/7 since the third week in Sept. That cast piece does not like being exposed to such high temp for such a long periods of time. If the stove was fired at a lower temp, it is probably not a problem. It is holding up well considering how hot I have been running the stove. The upper cast pieces are not a problem provided you never have burning coal in contact with them. The upper cast plates in my Jotul have never had burning coal against them, so they are in fine condition. If you never plan on loading coal above the brick I'm sure plate steel would work very well especially if you have it on hand. I would like to install brick or cast some brick for the fact I would like to load coal above the brick for a longer burn time. If you decided to install plate steel let me know how it works and post some pics.
The snowman.
Your correct concerning the back plate. It should be a lot taller. When I refurbish my one Jotul I will have brick all the way under the deflector plate. As for the cast piece behind the middle door; I have been firing my stove at a temp of 875 F 24/7 since the third week in Sept. That cast piece does not like being exposed to such high temp for such a long periods of time. If the stove was fired at a lower temp, it is probably not a problem. It is holding up well considering how hot I have been running the stove. The upper cast pieces are not a problem provided you never have burning coal in contact with them. The upper cast plates in my Jotul have never had burning coal against them, so they are in fine condition. If you never plan on loading coal above the brick I'm sure plate steel would work very well especially if you have it on hand. I would like to install brick or cast some brick for the fact I would like to load coal above the brick for a longer burn time. If you decided to install plate steel let me know how it works and post some pics.
The snowman.
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1/8 thick stainless steel might work very well. It will take heat better than cast iron.
Richard
Richard