100% Sealed Combustion Stokers

Luke D wrote: piping for $900 .

Standard stoker only requires single wall, besides whatever you use to go through the wall. Flue pipe no matter what the material is not a permanent investment. Most use a heavier gauge galvanized which will give about 5+ years typically.

I have a question on the dcv.
What is the max length of run you can have for the dcv?
If you are doing a basement install the run may be longer than recommended. And don't forget to add length for the elbows.

gambler wrote:I have a question on the dcv.
What is the max length of run you can have for the dcv?
If you are doing a basement install the run may be longer than recommended. And don't forget to add length for the elbows.

You can open up the DVC-500 Installation Guide / Users guide, on the Harman website. It will explain the internal flue installation. Keep in mind THAT SQUARE Pipe is EXPENSIVE! Keep your run as short as possible.
Heres the link:
http://www.harmanstoves.com/doc/dvc500m.pdf

I did not purchase the stove from SOS yet, I only got a price from them. I talked to the Harman dealer in Wind Gap PA and they wanted 3100 for the stove and the piping was also alot cheaper. I will look into this place in Flemington that you spoke of. I drive through Flemington on my way to work, It is only a half hour from my house. How many square feet do you heat with your dvc-500? Does it keep up? My house is about 2000 square feet. From the 1800's but it was renovated from the studs up and all in all is a preity well insulated and tight house. My only problem is that the unit is going to have to be put in the finished basement, and I will have to move the heat upstairs. I have some good ideas for heat transfer (cold air returns, duct vents, etc). My only worry about the dvc-500 is that it is not going to put out enough BTU's to heat my house. I was looking into the leisure line pioneer and pocono both rated at 90,000 BTU's but then again you need to calculate stove effiency as well. Thanks for any advise or input. I am open to any sugestions on what stove to buy but I plan on buying one this month.

Luke D wrote: I will look into this place in Flemington that you spoke of.
How many square feet do you heat with your dvc-500? Does it keep up? My house is about 2000 square feet. From the 1800's but it was renovated from the studs up and all in all is a preity well insulated and tight house. My only problem is that the unit is going to have to be put in the finished basement, and I will have to move the heat upstairs. I have some good ideas for heat transfer (cold air returns, duct vents, etc). My only worry about the dvc-500 is that it is not going to put out enough BTU's to heat my house.
Thanks for any advise or input. I am open to any sugestions on what stove to buy but I plan on buying one this month.

"Gotta Have It" is located in Liberty Village, behind the train station. Easy access from Rt 12. Just make sure he gives you a price for everything, not just the stove. But everything you need.
Our house is 3000s.f. built in 1974. The dvc-500 is in a corner of the largest room in the finished basement. It will EASILY heat the entire house, if the temps are above 20F. But we bought the DVC-500 just to heat the lower level of the house. Our FireplaceXtrordinaire heats the upper level.
Next year if we get a cold snap in the 0F range, I'll try just heating with the DVC500. But for now, the firewood is free and plentyfull, so I'll take advantage of it while I can

If I crank up the DVC500, it WILL pump out the heat, On a test, I cranked it up to max BTU output, and within 2 hours the large room it is in got up around 115F. We distribute the air by leaving the stairwell door open. Surprisingly, the heat does not go up the stairwell, cold air is coming DOWN the stairwell. Our whole-house air handler on the forced hot air oil burner is set up to run continuously at 20% output (Variable speed blower). This is enough to suck the hot air from the lower level and xfer it evenly throughout the upper level. It is remarkably similar to getting heat from the oil burner, very even heat, BUT it is a constant 24 x 7 heat, so not as many BTUs are required as the oil burner.
If possible, locate yours on an exterior wall, so you don't have a long run of their 'special' square pipe.
Are you installing it yourself? The hardest part is moving it. 500lbs !

That is good news to me that the dvc-500 is capable of heating your whole house. I also have aforced hot air furnace that has one large cold air return on the first floor. I was counting on that untit circulating alot of the air from the stove. I am also going to vent the cold air ruturn on the stove blower to the farthest spot on the first floor to help move the heat. Do you have a return air vent on your oil furnace located in the basement with the stove? I was thinking about ading a cold air intake on my furnace in the basement.

And no I have a very short run of stove pipe because it is a out of ground basement. A permanent chimney is just not posible for me and my set up.

Luke D wrote: Do you have a return air vent on your oil furnace located in the basement with the stove? I was thinking about ading a cold air intake on my furnace in the basement.
And no I have a very short run of stove pipe because it is a out of ground basement. A permanent chimney is just not posible for me and my set up.

I have two 6 " returns in the same room as the stove. I added a third, 8" return on the wall that the air handler is behind. I only needed 5ft of 8" pipe to get the new return to the main return trunk. It REALLY sucks good.
Good news on the walk-out basement. Thats the perfect setup. Heres a pic of mine.

Harmon's stoves are rated in output btu's,LL are rated in input btu's(90,000 input x 80%? efficiency =72,000 output).My Pioneer is adjusted (max burn rate) to not run out of coal or grossly overflow the ashpan in a 14-16 hour period,in really cold weather the oil burner thermostat is set to come on when the pioneer isn't keeping up,runs for 10 minutes maybe half a dozen times overnight and evens out the upstairs and downstairs temps,used a quarter tank of oil this heating season and saved a bunch of time and work doing house modifications.11,000 lbs of coal,winter came early,was colder than most of the recent ones,and stayed later.1800 sq ft circa 1880 farmhouse with NO insulation. RichB

reply powervent/damper question: set in sept and haven't touched it since,draft will change(go up) as flyash builds up in the pipes and powerventer,use a block of wood to hold the damper shut,turn venter on high speed,with open gloved hands thump the heck out of the sides of the stove and the pipes,then go outside and beatup on the venter,hold your breath while outside.turn venter back down and remove block of wood,draft is back to normal. RichB

You can buy a Power vent combustion kit. It draws outside air through the outer pipe (6") into a 4" tee. I'm sure Fields has a picture on line.
Jerry