Mahantongo wrote:I assure you all that the packaging very clearly stated "Manufactured in China". I switched back to pea coal after blocking some of secondary air - I actually got some heat out of it - I'm only trying to take 500 square feet from 55 degrees to a comfortable 70 degress - it was working last night, I went to bed at 11 and got up at 6 and it was cold again - after a shakedown - there were some coals up in the hopper that were still light - 40 minutes later after a shakedown - the coals are burning again. I've never burned such a tempermental stove -it either burns very quickly with a moderate amount of heat - or goes out. I suspect there's TONS of heat going up the chimney so since it still gives very little heat (it puts out no heat at all if on anything buy high) and I still have the barometric damper attached - I guess at this point I should try a new barometric damper and get a manometer to set it - I'm hoping this is not a waste of money and time. I still don't think I should pay the money I did for this stove and then have to modify it to keep it burning - and by the way - between noon on Saturday and 6am on Sunday - it burned about 75 pounds of pea coal - which is more than I burned with my last stove on the coldest of days. Does anyone know what Reading will cover under their warranty? Is this considered defective? I just feel like if the draft is set correctly - as advertised in the owners manual - the stove will NOT stay lit. If I reduce the bypass air - it does stay lit but burns a ton of coal with minimal heat. And I've sent 2 e-mails to Reading and left 2 voicemails (they're not answering their phone) and no reply. Is there anyone out there - that can help me modify this stove more if necessary since I really couldn't even afford buying this stove - but the other one is warn out and needs too many replacement parts - some of which are no longer available.
Don't give up! Block all the secondary air and make sure there is no air coming around the combustion chamber from behind the fire brick.
75 pounds of coal is way too much and indicates that too much air is going through the coal. With an established fire the air control should be almost closed. Barely open. That 75 pounds should have had the stove glowing. Also it is beyond the capacity of the stove to burn at that rate and maintain a long burn.
What you describe will occur if the chimney is drafting poorly. With a low fire the draft dies and the fire goes out. To maintain enough heat in the chimney to draft properly you open the air control and stack temps go up and the chimney draws, but because of the excess air the stove cannot absorb the heat. The chimney is requiring too much heat to draw properly. All that air is taking the heat with it.
Please describe your chimney, whether outside or inside, size and height, or if it is a fireplace. The weather is much warmer now so many chimneys will behave badly. The barometric damper limits excess draft. I think your problem is too little draft except when firing at a high rate. A manometer, and magnetic thermometer on the stack would really help to pin down where the problem lies. If poor draft is the answer there are some simple things you can try to improve things.
It still is much too early to condemn the stove. I would bet that if we had that stove on a power vent to test, where we could fine tune the draft regardless of outside temperature, it would work great.
Around 1986 when stoves were going begging, a friend bought a brand new Franco Belge from a local hardware store for $100. He made the mistake of putting up an 8 inch Metalbestos chimney; he thought bigger was better. and of course it would only draw if the stove was fired high. Replacing the 8 inch with 6 inch made all the difference, and that was with insulated pipe.