Painting the Inside of Your Stove: Results Are in
The results are in and they are not good. I ran my stove several seasons and decided that I wanted to paint the interior to cut down on rusting. I tried POR-15 which is used over rusted metal and had a temp rating of 700 degrees. During the season the interior held up but at the end of the season I decided to clean up with baking soda and the paint started to peel off. I would not suggest using this paint on the interior of your stove. I may just leave it as is or try scraping off the POR-15 and trying it one more time with stove bright. I'm not sure if any paint can handle the corrosive environment that lurks inside the stove.
I'm wondering if anyone has painted the interior of their stove with success?
I'm wondering if anyone has painted the interior of their stove with success?
- Freddy
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I guess I'm a bit lost on the baking soda thing. After I vacuumed my boiler out there was just a whisper of ash left on the metal. Even if that were pure acid it seems that it couldn't make much rust. I'm thinking the people that have severe rust issues have the stove in a damp environment. I'm inclined to think the water mixed with the baking soda does more harm than good. Just my $.03. Maybe dust it with dry baking soda?
- VigIIPeaBurner
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I'm inclined to agree with Freddy's statements about the acid forming in moist atmosphere. Chemically speaking, any SOx present in the remaining fly ash and/or embedded in the porous metal surface could convert to sulfuric or sulfonic acid and that's when the corrosion starts. Washing with sodium bicarbonate will neutralize the acid potential but will also introduce water to the exposed iron surfaces and that could start the rusting process unless an air barrier is applied, like the oil Chris used. I've read on other threads that using paint inside the stove could act as an insulator and keep the heat transfer down. I've swabbed my SS chimney w/a wet bicarb soaked rag sometimes. Does this do any good- I don't know. It's SS! It seems the only way I'll know if it would wear out before an identical SS chimney used the same way but not swabbed with bicarb wears out first! What's a stove owner to do
All good info. I agree that moisture is the real problem with rusting. I have tried just vacuuming out the interior and then eventually the metal would start to flake off the sides of the stove. Long Island has high humidity and that is the problem. My plan was to wash out the interior with bicarbonate, and then dry it all out with a 300 watt halogen and then put in a bucket of damp rid. A 100 watt bulb would work but I'm not sure I want to run a light 24/7 in the summer. LP3 works ok but I think the interior needs to be real dry when you apply it.
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It seems like the damp rid by itself would do the trick, if you just vacuum it out and seal it reasonably well by covering the flue opening. Without moisture, not much chemical reaction is going to happentraderfjp wrote:My plan was to wash out the interior with bicarbonate, and then dry it all out with a 300 watt halogen and then put in a bucket of damp rid.
Thats exactly what I did. After the stove had dried out, I applied the LPS3, then put the box of Moisture-absorbent in the ash pan, and closed it all uptraderfjp wrote:It was pretty wet in the stove after washing it out and the damp rid is 10.00 a bucket so I thought it better to burn some electricity to dry it out and then use the Damprid.
I was reading an old thread where Mathaeus posted how he painted the interior of his stove with a ceramic header high heat paint. Not sure of the brand -I think it was Duplicolor. He said that the paint holds up and that he simply vacuums out the stove and is done with it and then after several years he will give a recoat. Sounds interesting.
This is disapointing news...I used por15 on the inside of my koker this year after my first season....it was not rusted much at all prior to putting it on....maybe the paint will hold up better over non rusted areas....the baking soda/water at the end of each season I am really questioning...if you have a dry basement I am thinking that it may be more harm then good. Well, I'll let you know how my paint holds up next year...if it flakes off I'll just flake off more of what I can and put another coating of something else...maybe stovebright....any suggestions? Thanks Matheus for your findings!
When I applied POR-15 I sanded the interior pretty well but it was pretty rusted. POR-15 is suppose to like rust. I think once I wet the ash the ash turned into a paint remover. The POR-15 just started to flake off. If I was you I would try just vaccuming out the interior and then adding damprid or a lightbulb and see if the paint holds up. How do things look now? Have u done any end of the season summerizing? Here is the link that Matheaus sent me for the paint he used and which held up: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLH6/ref ... nkCode=asn
Unfortuately I already orderd stove bright that can be brushed on. I'm not sure if I should try it, use LP3 and then forgetaboutit or try POR-20. Spray paint in the house is not an option.
Unfortuately I already orderd stove bright that can be brushed on. I'm not sure if I should try it, use LP3 and then forgetaboutit or try POR-20. Spray paint in the house is not an option.
- LsFarm
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The problem is the summer humidity. Washing the interior with Soda will neutralize the acid in the ash that didn't get vacuumed up.. Then you must let the interior of the stove dry.. using a light bulb as mentioned is a good idea..
But nobody has mentioned a very important addtional item.. you should remove the flue pipe and stuff newspapers in the exhaust breach of the stove/boiler. The wad of newspaper will absorb summer humidity that would normally migrate down the flue pipe.. Wash out the flue pipe and stuff the ends with more newspaper.
Anything you can do to keep the interior of the stove dry will greatly reduce the rusting and flaking of the steel interior.
The high temp spray paints that Matthaus recommends do work, but you need to do a good job preparing the surface.
Greg L
But nobody has mentioned a very important addtional item.. you should remove the flue pipe and stuff newspapers in the exhaust breach of the stove/boiler. The wad of newspaper will absorb summer humidity that would normally migrate down the flue pipe.. Wash out the flue pipe and stuff the ends with more newspaper.
Anything you can do to keep the interior of the stove dry will greatly reduce the rusting and flaking of the steel interior.
The high temp spray paints that Matthaus recommends do work, but you need to do a good job preparing the surface.
Greg L
- Yanche
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How about just painting the interior with a sacrificial paint after cleaning and soda washing? I'm thinking of thinned latex paint that could be sprayed with a pump type lawn chemical sprayer. Put on several coats as needed to get the desired thickness. For sure it would burn off when first used, but so what, it's done it's job of protecting the steel surface by then.
If the goal is to protect the interior from rust then LP3 would probably be easier then paint. I bought some stove bright brush on but I'm not sure it's worth the time after how the POR-15 peeled off when I went to wash down my stove. Maybe if I just vaccum it and not activate the fly ash with water and baking soda.
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Other ideas (untested) for protecting the interior of your stove from rust:
1) Wash with your neutralizing solution, dry, use a spray bottle to coat the interior with with mineral oil. It's odorless and available at your drug store.
2) If you don't mind the smell you could spray on wd-40 or kerosene instead. wd 40 is a water displacer.
3)Hoppe's makes MDL, a moister displacing lubricant that you may be using on your guns for storage. It doesn't smell bad but it will cost you more.
4) Paint the interior each year with high temp paint. The brush on versions may be a better choice than the aerosols. Less smell; slops into nooks and crannies better.
5) Add a dessicant to the interior of the stove.
6) Leave a candle or oil lamp burning in your stove.
7) After neutralizing the surfaces to avoid acid pitting, don't worry about a little surface rust.
Don't paint ferrous metal with standard latex paint. It will cause rust under the layer of paint. If you must use a non-oil paint, use a waterborne DTM (direct to metal paint) to avoid rusting the surface.
1) Wash with your neutralizing solution, dry, use a spray bottle to coat the interior with with mineral oil. It's odorless and available at your drug store.
2) If you don't mind the smell you could spray on wd-40 or kerosene instead. wd 40 is a water displacer.
3)Hoppe's makes MDL, a moister displacing lubricant that you may be using on your guns for storage. It doesn't smell bad but it will cost you more.
4) Paint the interior each year with high temp paint. The brush on versions may be a better choice than the aerosols. Less smell; slops into nooks and crannies better.
5) Add a dessicant to the interior of the stove.
6) Leave a candle or oil lamp burning in your stove.
7) After neutralizing the surfaces to avoid acid pitting, don't worry about a little surface rust.
Don't paint ferrous metal with standard latex paint. It will cause rust under the layer of paint. If you must use a non-oil paint, use a waterborne DTM (direct to metal paint) to avoid rusting the surface.