How to Cut Down on Stove Clearance Space?

Need to get as close to wall as possible because house is small and to preserve decor. Stove I am going to get is a DS Newstyle Champion. Has rear vent. If I use a double walled 6" cleanout tee on the rear vent and run it straight up with double wall, I should be safe to 2 to 3" from the drywall, right?

I think that would be OK, but to be on the safe side, I'd use TRIPLE wall. Or rig an alarm up to sound at a pre-set temperature. Those clearances are for a worst-case scenario, but you have to figure that it might happen sometime.....

Manufacturers of Double wall black pipe recommend a minimum of 6" from combustibles like unprotected drywall.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**What is the recommended clearance to combustible walls for this stove?
If the wall behind the stove is drywall, will it have any protection?

If I understand you correctly, you plan on using the exterior double walled chimney pipe connected to the stove with a clean out tee, then running it straight up through the roof, in order for you to get 2" clearance from the drywall? If that is so, I believe that will work. But, you have to take a few more things into consideration. One, the clearance from the actual stove to the combustibles. Two, planning on installing another tee fitting for the installation of a barometric draft regulator. You definitely need a barometric draft regulator, if you plan on burning coal with any amount of control or efficiency. Do a search on the forum for barometric draft regulators, there are many topics discussed in detail on it's use and why. DOUG

You will need to use Metalbestus type pipe to get that close. The law (at least here) says that no matter what you cannot reduce the clearance by more than 50%. A stove that calls for 36" to combustables can be no closer than 18" no matter if you have 55 layers of protection. Bare stove pipes need 18" and can be no closer than 9". Metalbestus type will get you to 2". They used to be 1" but recently changed to 2. The pipe didn't change, just the law.

Was planning on using a barometric draft control. Last time had an Field Control RC. Is the Vogelzang as good as the RC? They're cheaper. Can I use a draft control with doublewall?
Was going to build a nice environment for the stove in a corner with heavy plywood covered with cement board covered with ceramic tile. Then use doublewalled pipe.

I'm determined to use an outside airfeed too. That represents a problem because once I have the stove in place I don't want to move it to cut the hole in the shield I'm going to make and I need a hole in the floor to the crawlspace under house. I guess I'll have to premeasure and plan ahead. That means I'll have to guage clearances. Do you think that a 4" air feed can be cut down to 2" to go through the floor? It's not like an engine or anything.

A 4" hole flows about four times the air of a 2" hole. (12 1/2 sq " vrs 3.14 sq")

Thanks Freddy, how much does the stove actually need though? Hate to cut a baloonga hole in my living room floor if I can cut a smaller one. Where can I get a nice cap for the hole if its ever exposed?

A quick comment about the backing, no matter how much you cover the plywood, you need an air space to be safe. I had a mason build a chimney against code once and it caught the house on fire the first time it was used. It had the fire brick, a 4 inch solid block and NO Airspace. Heat will transfer right through masonry. Be careful in trusting the cement board and tile.

Kevin

"A quick comment about the backing, no matter how much you cover the plywood, you need an air space to be safe. I had a mason build a chimney against code once and it caught the house on fire the first time it was used. It had the fire brick, a 4 inch solid block and NO Airspace. Heat will transfer right through masonry. Be careful in trusting the cement board and tile."

Kevin's right - the code here in Northern VA requires a 2 inch air space between the non-combustible and the heat shield. I bet yours does, too. Be sure to check it out, this is something you don't want to be surprised over when the inspector is standing there. Been there, done that! My husband created this space with 2 inch steel pipes (nipples?) Any hardware store will have them. He used 4 inch toggle bolts to fasten the pipes and cement board to the wall. The heat shield gets hot but the wall just 3 inches away doesn't. He counter sank the bolts so the tile facade will lay flat. Our code also spells out the dimensions of the heat shield in relation to the stove. Our shield extends beyond the hearth by 12 inches on either side and is 5 ft high. Lisa

You need a gap at the bottom so the air can circulate up, produces a draft effect. I'd imagine as a bonus you're getting use out of that heat as opposed to it being transferred through the wall.

Thanks. Was planning on having an airspace of 2 to 4 inches, but hadn't thought it through. Now I'll be sure to do that.

So the plan is to have the little DS Newstyle CHampion backed into the corner. It will be set on an elevated tiled hearth with the air feed connected to a hole in the floor to the crawl space below. THe vent will flow into a double walled cleanout tee with a mechanical damper in it and immediatly above that will be another tee with a Field Control RC in it (I just won it on Ebay for 28 bucks shipped!) and will run all the way up to the ceiling and beyond with double walled pipe. So the stove will sit back tight and the two back corners will have 2 inches clearance to their respective sides. I'm not sure how close the pipe will be to the corner. We will have tile all the way up, one on each side of the corner, 16". The tile will be backed with cement board and have at least a 2 inch air space to the wall. I'll have to get the stove here before I tile the hearth I'm building because I want to position it exactly where its going to be so I can cut the hole in the tile and in the floor accurately. Then I'll have David K. Stoltzfus come in and run the chimney through the ceiling and roof. I'm excited - having a stove to tend makes winter so much better! I'm debating having DS neck up to 7" pipe to make sure the draft will be strong. He mentioned they do that on the larger stoves. I'd rather have too strong a draft than too weak and that should help make up for the chimney being a little short coming up through a ranch house.

I you really want a minimum (zero) clearance it can be done but you will have to engineer it yourself. The product you would use as an insulator is called millboard. Here's one manufactures web site. http://www.intersourceusa.com/millboard_product_p ... erties.htm The formulas needed can be found in the appendix of the Massachusetts State Building Code 780 CMR 120.00 Part XII Appendices. Page 68 is the page you want. It describes how to design solid fuel floor protection devices. You want is a wall protection device but the engineering design principles are the same. I've posted page 68 of the 76 page building code appendix as a pdf document. Good luck. I have no idea what the cost of "millboard" might be.