Harman Magnun keeps going out...

PostBy: LsFarm On: Wed Nov 29, 2006 12:41 pm

I use a flat refrigerator magnet to cover and adjust the inlet area of my combustion fan. It works great, and I don't have to use a screwdriver to reposition it.

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: barley master On: Wed Nov 29, 2006 3:43 pm

you may have too low of a feed rate and too high of a moisture content at the same time which i know from first hand it will go out.
barley master
 

PostBy: lpd54001 On: Thu Nov 30, 2006 8:27 am

I am supposed to be getting a draft meter to try, but it seems I have good draft. I can hold the barametric damper 2 inches from the opening and it gets sucked open. Where on the combustion fan does the plate go? Facing the stove, left or right? Thanks
lpd54001
 

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PostBy: lpd54001 On: Thu Nov 30, 2006 8:32 am

As far as feed rate, it seems to keep burning if I overfeed it, such as red coals into the pan. It's when I turn it back, and I am only talking a half of turn at a time, is when it goes out. I really hope we get to the bottom of this. We don't know if it will be warm or cold in the house when we get home. Thank god for the Alaskan stoker running in the basement for a backup.
lpd54001
 

PostBy: wenchris On: Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:14 pm

Here's a picture of the combustion fan and restricter plate.
Stay warm, Jimmy
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wenchris
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: Magnum stoker with water coil

PostBy: lpd54001 On: Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:40 am

Thanks, is that about where yours is set? I tried placing a magnet over 1/3 of the opening last night. I called a Harman store last night and they told me they sell the plate, so this may have been a problem before...
lpd54001
 

PostBy: lpd54001 On: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:33 pm

FIXED IT !!!!!! I finally found the problem myself after no help from Harman or one of it's dealers. Actually and Aslaskan dealer helped. He lent me a draft meter. I checked the draft below the barametric, then I drilled a hole below the upper door and placed the probe in it. No negative draft at all. All positive. That made me get down on the flor and look up into the stove under the grate. I then saw the plate that covers the 2 cleanout holes on the bottom was extremely loose. I tightened it and put the probe back in, and the negative pressure is great, it matches the pipe draft exactly. After 3 years, the stove finally works right. Why couldn't the Harmon company or dealer tell me to check that? The flame is so much greater now, all the way to the top of the stove...
lpd54001
 

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:41 pm

Could you post a photo of the ports that had loose covers?? It may help other owners of the same stove with similar problems

Greg L.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: barley master On: Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:47 am

you shouldnt have had to drill a hole below the door. mine has an allen screw(plug) that you remove to do testing and set up.

as for the plate that covers the two "holes" that is for removing sifting fines that fall down in the air tyres "holes" on the grates. if not removed on occasion it can fill up and restrict your forced draft air supply.

dont over tighten the screw because in time you wont be able to swing open the plate then you will have more fun replcaing it.
barley master
 

PostBy: lpd54001 On: Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:26 am

My Harman is an OLD stove, no hole for checking the pressure in the fire box, that's why I had to drill one. I only hand tightened the bolt holding the plate. My stove has one big single grate, and 3 glass panes...
lpd54001
 

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