I Own a Wheeled Toilet! Vent About Automotive Nightmares

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Sat. Nov. 16, 2013 12:42 pm

Yeah I've seen several Honda GX engines with ignition and valve problems. They are built with timing belts and PLASTIC camshafts!! :shock: Even Honda cheaps out these days. What is the world coming too .... :o :(

I think I'll run this prick until it explodes. Cheaper ... just so long as I don't have to dump a quart every single time I run it. If that's going to be the case, I might start searching for an old school opposed twin Kohler from a Craftsman tractor.


 
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Post by SMITTY » Sat. Nov. 16, 2013 12:45 pm

Rick 386 wrote:Well I finally have the answer to this situation:
Used Engine.jpg
Cost a little over $3000 for it. It's got 122,000 miles on it supposedly. Just going to cost me about 3 friggin' days labor to swap it out and then dump this pig. Going to trade it in immediately after the swap before something else happens to it.

Rick
HO -LEE- SHIIIT Rick! They sure don't give those damn engines away nowadays! Sticker shock central ... :shock: Just like everything nowadays I suppose ... :(

When the Blazer takes a dump, I think I'll grab the wifey a Subaru instead of a Vulva ... err .. Volvo. :D

 
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Post by Short Bus » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 12:33 am

We have a new Honda single cylinder on a air compressor at work and it has Made in Vietnam on a sticker by the starter rope.

 
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Post by Rick 386 » Mon. Dec. 30, 2013 8:36 pm

The ordeal with the Volvo is over. :dancing: :shots: :wine: :band:

Details in FSC.........

Rick

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Mon. Dec. 30, 2013 9:09 pm

Rick 386 wrote:The ordeal with the Volvo is over. :dancing: :shots: :wine: :band:

Details in FSC.........

Rick
So what was the damage to your liver? I figure you had to have at least 1 or 2 over this car. :D

 
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Post by SMITTY » Mon. Dec. 30, 2013 11:07 pm

I needed a blood transfusion after the Jimmy ....

 
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Post by Rick 386 » Tue. Dec. 31, 2013 9:31 am

Flyer5 wrote:
So what was the damage to your liver? I figure you had to have at least 1 or 2 over this car. :D
1 or 2 ??? Bwahaha........ More like 1 or 2 CASES !!!!!!

But I will say that the Jaeger bottle took a big hit. I do have to get me one of those really big bottles. Makes too much noise carrying the bag of little bottles to the trash.

New Years Resolution # 1

NEVER, EVER DO ENGINE WORK ON ANY VOLVO PASSENGER VEHICLE !!!

Rick


 
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Post by rberq » Sun. Jan. 05, 2014 2:55 pm

:sick: :mad: :x Nothing wrong with the car, plenty wrong with the mechanic.
I got a call from my son 15 minutes ago. He said he had his right rear tire fixed a couple days ago -- the bead needed to be sealed because it was losing air. So today driving to the mall he heard a whoosh - whoosh - whoosh noise from the right rear that was faster and slower depending on the car's speed. I told him to dig out his lug wrench and check the nuts (ain't cell phones great?!) He said, "Wow! Dad. These nuts are just finger tight. I can spin them right off without even using the wrench." *censored* moron mechanic. I'm sure it's kind of a boring job sometimes, but don't these shitheads know that peoples' lives depend on their work?

This is a garage almost across the street from where my son lives in Old Town, Maine. They have *censored* up other things, for example replacing four expensive 100K spark plugs with only 10K on them, simply because they had a random misfire code from the computer. Obviously didn't fix the problem, but whatever it is he just lives with it because the car basically runs OK.

I don't live nearby and I don't know which shops are decent. So, who can recommend a GOOD repair shop in Bangor/Orono/Old Town, Maine?

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Sun. Jan. 05, 2014 5:38 pm

rberq wrote::sick: :mad: :x Nothing wrong with the car, plenty wrong with the mechanic.
I got a call from my son 15 minutes ago. He said he had his right rear tire fixed a couple days ago -- the bead needed to be sealed because it was losing air. So today driving to the mall he heard a whoosh - whoosh - whoosh noise from the right rear that was faster and slower depending on the car's speed. I told him to dig out his lug wrench and check the nuts (ain't cell phones great?!) He said, "Wow! Dad. These nuts are just finger tight. I can spin them right off without even using the wrench." *censored* moron mechanic. I'm sure it's kind of a boring job sometimes, but don't these shitheads know that peoples' lives depend on their work?

This is a garage almost across the street from where my son lives in Old Town, Maine. They have *censored* up other things, for example replacing four expensive 100K spark plugs with only 10K on them, simply because they had a random misfire code from the computer. Obviously didn't fix the problem, but whatever it is he just lives with it because the car basically runs OK.

I don't live nearby and I don't know which shops are decent. So, who can recommend a GOOD repair shop in Bangor/Orono/Old Town, Maine?
A vehicle should never leave a shop without using a torque wrench on the nuts. I hate when they over tighten them as well. Over tightening can be even more dangerous because they give no warning before leaving go. Then as Kenny Rogers said "You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel"

 
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Post by rberq » Fri. Jul. 04, 2014 7:58 am

And speaking of tires, do small diameter differences really damage the differential or transfer case of all-wheel drive vehicles like Subaru? I don’t mean different tire size, I mean identical tires where some have worn slightly more than others, say 2/32 worn off three tires and 5/32 worn off the fourth tire. I was in the tire shop yesterday and a guy wanted a single new tire to replace one that was damaged beyond repair. His other three tires had less than 10,000 miles. Even though the shop had the identical brand/model/size they refused to install it without checking with the Subaru dealer. They claimed they were previously stuck for a huge bill to replace the damaged transfer case of a Volvo after installing a single new tire alongside three worn ones.

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Jul. 04, 2014 8:39 am

In the scenario you posted new vs used 10,000 mi. shouldn't make a difference,it's likely they were overreacting to their earlier goof. This is something I never worried about as I never had an all wheel drive till we got a 03 Explorer last yr to replace our 89 Celebrity. I was just thinking about the tire issue recently as I did a 4 wheel rotation while servicing the Explorer. If we have 1 tire go bad,we have to find a used match or put 4 new tires on :shock:

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Jul. 04, 2014 9:44 am

windyhill4.2 wrote:In the scenario you posted new vs used 10,000 mi. shouldn't make a difference,it's likely they were overreacting to their earlier goof. This is something I never worried about as I never had an all wheel drive till we got a 03 Explorer last yr to replace our 89 Celebrity. I was just thinking about the tire issue recently as I did a 4 wheel rotation while servicing the Explorer. If we have 1 tire go bad,we have to find a used match or put 4 new tires on :shock:
Here ya go Dave. This may help answer your question somewhat.

http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=18

FWIW, The front tires on my Ford Taurus X (all-wheel drive with traction control) were very worn from misalignment, but the rears still had plenty of tread. Plus in winter the driver's front had a bad leak at the rim. Had to be filled almost daily, so it was always lower pressure than the other. Never felt, or had a problem. But that may be unique to that driveline design. Other designs of driveline may not be as forgiving of mismatch in tire rolling diameters.

Best bet is to check with the vehicle manufacturer.

Paul

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Jul. 04, 2014 10:47 am

Thanks,Paul that was a very interesting article. Shave a new tire to match ? May be better to install 4 new & sell the 3 to someone without all wheel drive,sure would hate to shave 1/2 tread off to match the other 3 tires. If the tires only have 10k as rberg mentioned,installing the new tire on the dominant drive wheel... FWD based system = right front wheel, RWD based system = right rear. Leave it on that position for 10-15k before including it into the 4 wheel rotation should even the tread on all 4 .

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Jul. 04, 2014 11:23 am

windyhill4.2 wrote:Thanks,Paul that was a very interesting article. Shave a new tire to match ? May be better to install 4 new & sell the 3 to someone without all wheel drive,sure would hate to shave 1/2 tread off to match the other 3 tires. If the tires only have 10k as rberg mentioned,installing the new tire on the dominant drive wheel... FWD based system = right front wheel, RWD based system = right rear. Leave it on that position for 10-15k before including it into the 4 wheel rotation should even the tread on all 4 .
That, or since tire prices have jumped so much, maybe the tire dealers will start giving "trade-ins" on tires with low wear ????

What more people may start doing. One of my daughters doesn't wait. She has to get to work on back rural roads through some of the worst of our lake-affect snow storms. After surviving a nasty roll-over when her truck skidded in a bad snow storm, she buys new tires every fall. That way her 4X4 truck tires have full tread depth for getting to work in snow. She sells the year old tires. Says the piece of mind from not driving the tires until they are worn out is worth the slight loss selling the old tires. I can see her point.

What I was glad to find was that Ford was having their yearly tire sale about the time I needed tires. And, they had the Good Year triple treads I wanted. Their sale prices were lower than all the discount tire shops within an hours drive of here. Even lower than the on-line tire dealers after shipping was included.

On top of that, Ford was giving a $75.00 rebate for a set of four tires. On top of that, sign up for the Ford Dealership credit card and get another $75.00 off four tires. Saved me almost the cost of a tire over the cheapest other prices.

Paul

 
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Post by davidmcbeth3 » Sat. Jul. 05, 2014 5:31 am

Sunny Boy wrote:
windyhill4.2 wrote:Thanks,Paul that was a very interesting article. Shave a new tire to match ? May be better to install 4 new & sell the 3 to someone without all wheel drive,sure would hate to shave 1/2 tread off to match the other 3 tires. If the tires only have 10k as rberg mentioned,installing the new tire on the dominant drive wheel... FWD based system = right front wheel, RWD based system = right rear. Leave it on that position for 10-15k before including it into the 4 wheel rotation should even the tread on all 4 .
That, or since tire prices have jumped so much, maybe the tire dealers will start giving "trade-ins" on tires with low wear ????

What more people may start doing. One of my daughters doesn't wait. She has to get to work on back rural roads through some of the worst of our lake-affect snow storms. After surviving a nasty roll-over when her truck skidded in a bad snow storm, she buys new tires every fall. That way her 4X4 truck tires have full tread depth for getting to work in snow. She sells the year old tires. Says the piece of mind from not driving the tires until they are worn out is worth the slight loss selling the old tires. I can see her point.

What I was glad to find was that Ford was having their yearly tire sale about the time I needed tires. And, they had the Good Year triple treads I wanted. Their sale prices were lower than all the discount tire shops within an hours drive of here. Even lower than the on-line tire dealers after shipping was included.

On top of that, Ford was giving a $75.00 rebate for a set of four tires. On top of that, sign up for the Ford Dealership credit card and get another $75.00 off four tires. Saved me almost the cost of a tire over the cheapest other prices.

Paul
She's crazy ... just get a set of snow tires for winter use....swap them out at change of seasons


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