cleaning glass

cleaning glass

PostBy: wally61 On: Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:42 pm

i have a alaska channing stove and was having difficulty cleaning glass. tried all the things thay have and the best thing i used was a scraper that you scrape inspection stickers off with. do inside only. seems to stay cleaner also because you have smoothed it out.
wally61
 
Stove/Furnace Make: alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: channing III dv coal-trol

PostBy: Gary in Pennsylvania On: Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:18 pm

This was my reply in a similar thread.....

Heck....I just open the door and rub the inside of the glass once a week with wadded up newspaper and then just chuck the wad on the coals when I'm done.
Presto cleanso!


But with a related question.......I only find my glass getting dirty when I shake the crap out of the coal after a good 8-10hr burn. And even then, the glass is always easy to clean ( I do it about once-twice a week).
So how does some members' glass get dirty to the point that it's hard to remove? Where to those 'tough' deposites come from? Impurities in the coal?
Gary in Pennsylvania
 

PostBy: AL-53 On: Fri Dec 01, 2006 7:04 pm

I use a cleaner made for ceramic topped cook stoves..it is called Stove Top I believe...got it at wally world...it does a great job of cleaning the glass..also it leaves a high temp silicone coating that helps keep it clean...4.95 a bottle it is the same as the rutland fireplace glass cleaner..but lots cheaper....

Use a terry towel and the polish and it will make the glass sparkle


Al
AL-53
 

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PostBy: barley master On: Sat Dec 02, 2006 3:35 am

for me its not cleaning the glass often enough that causes a crusty white build up that is hard to totally remove after some time. when my stove is working a 50% rating or more continously the glass is really too hot to put any cleaner "windex" on it without it flashing to steam or drying out when using "white off" from rutland. i have even left the door open for some time to cool the glass but with the door itself being hot it doesnt cool enough to clean it properly and the end result is i stop trying.

because of my stokers location (damp basement) i think the room air that is drawn in for the air wash system has a higher moisture content then if it was in a dryer atomosphere. i think the moisture entering comes in contact with the flyash on the window and it sort of melts the fly ash and then with the prolonged heat solidifies this build up into a hard crust.

i know of some that have made a steel plate to cover the door opening while leaving the door open long enough to allow the window to cool for cleaning.

i had the same problem with the franco belge but instead of the glass turning white over time it would be reddish over time.

i think the chemical composition of the coal has something to do with it also.

a source i know close to harman said "glass plus" was the best but i didnt have very good results with it either.
barley master
 

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