Dwyer manometer with a LL

Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: coalnewbie On: Mon Sep 07, 2009 6:08 pm

I am installing my Pocono with SWF4 and got it set up, the video was made for idiots so it is exactly my speed. Now I understand the concept (I think) that I need a small negative pressure and the dealer even offered to come over when I have it installed to check me out (probably a good idea anyway) but when I light up in the fall the fire will be on very low so as I blast it out in the dead of winter I will have to raise the fan speed to accommodate the larger fire thus changing any install settings Tp amle things worse, I am facing the north and up a hill and those 60mph blasts may encourage me to overblow the extractor and temporarily waste a little fuel to stop wind coming in. By my way of thinking I need to make this Dwyer unit a permanent install so I can keep checking the draft. Do I drill a hole somewhere and if it is permanent how do I stop it melting the rubber hose? Is a permanent install even desirable.

Help please.
coalnewbie
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL AnthraKing 180K, Pocono110K,KStokr 90K, DVC
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Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut
Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22

Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Mon Sep 07, 2009 7:37 pm

coalnewbie wrote:Do I drill a hole somewhere and if it is permanent how do I stop it melting the rubber hose? Is a permanent install even desirable.

You will need a hole between the appliance outlet and the baro, preferably in the middle of a straight run of pipe. It is OK to mount permanently, use a piece of automotive brake line about a foot long at the end of the hose. You will need to be able to detach the hose to zero the meter to maintain an accurate reading.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: Uglysquirrel On: Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:06 pm

Coal Newbie, a permanent install is the way to go,

I agree with Coaled Sweat on install location.

Here is what I did, you can likely do better. Bought a ~12" long 1/4 in OD steel brake line, cut the flair off both sides and drilled a hole in the exhaust pipe .001-.002 bigger than the brake tube OD. As Coaled Sweat said drill the hole between the Pocono and baro, try to stay away from any "T" or elbow for several iches if possible as you want laminar (smooth) flow to pass by the tube . My brake line is inserted 3/8 inch with a stop to ensure it does not go in more or fall out. The other end of the brake line is a brass compression fitting that transitioned into a rubber hose fitting, from there the hose goes to the dwyer. A wire holds up 12" brake line, kinda rinkey dink but it works well and the whole mess comes off easy for cleaning.

Some people do a better job and put a brass compression fitting right in the wall of the pipe, that is fine also. If you do this you may locally distort the pipe. Just make sure you give at least 5-6" between the pipe wall and rubber hose so the hose stays cool.

Having a permanent install tells you if you have any situations where you may need to clean out your pipes, also fun to watch in high winds as the flapper starts opening up a lot! Cheap thrills on a Friday nite!

b
Uglysquirrel
 
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

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Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: coal berner On: Tue Sep 08, 2009 1:33 am

Or you can stick the pipe into one of the stack pipe screw holes take a screw out and stick the pipe in it you might have to make the screw hole a little bigger depening on the size of pipe you are going to use for the manometer hose.
you should have all of your stack pipe section screwed together with at least 3 screws anyway just take one screw out and put another one somewhere else in the pipe like next to the hose pipe . No need to drill into the stack pipe .
Just make sure you put it before the baro on a straight section of the stack pipe
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
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Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: coalnewbie On: Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:44 am

Thanks a million guys. So this is in the basement with a dodgy knee I would like to respond to sudden changes in weather minimizing trips to the basement. So one Dwyer next to the fire and the second upstairs with an extension piece of pipe perhaps? Here is where I would like to be if I can do this at reasonable cost. How about second electric manometer one showing vacuum on my computer in the gutter. USB, RS232 or 485 connector. As I am glued to the computer now trying to make ends meet a screen display would be great. I do this for weather. Is this too ambitious and a flawed engineering solution?


Thanks again.
coalnewbie
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL AnthraKing 180K, Pocono110K,KStokr 90K, DVC
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93,
Baseburners & Antiques: Invader 2 Wings Best, Glenwood #8 + Herald 116x
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut
Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22

Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:21 am

coalnewbie wrote:So this is in the basement with a dodgy knee I would like to respond to sudden changes in weather minimizing trips to the basement.Is this too ambitious and a flawed engineering solution?

You are worrying to much about this. Baro dampers are very stable once set, weather changes should not affect the damper as they rely on an active pressure differential, not existing air pressure. You don't need anything else.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: WNY On: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:59 am

Normally once set, it will automatically respond to changes in pressure, heat, wind, etc.... It may run a bit open at times and flap a bit with wind, but once you set it up, you should be good for most , if not all, of the season.

If you have a manometer hooked up. It doesn't hurt to zero it out or calibrate it mid season to make sure everything is working correctly.

Refer to the thread on "Manometer Install" for more pics, setup, etc...
manometer install
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Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: coalnewbie On: Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:20 pm

OK guys thanks for clearing that up. Appreciate the info....
coalnewbie
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL AnthraKing 180K, Pocono110K,KStokr 90K, DVC
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93,
Baseburners & Antiques: Invader 2 Wings Best, Glenwood #8 + Herald 116x
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut
Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22

Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: WNY On: Tue Sep 08, 2009 1:00 pm

We were all "newbies" at one time...so, we pass along the info we have learned over the years..... :)

Enjoy! :)
WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
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Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: Uglysquirrel On: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:45 pm

All this draft tech talk, I'm startin' to get the coal ebeeeeee- gebeeeeeeesssss!

This is my first year with the Pocono, sure not going to miss that every 12 hour feeding/ash schedule, though starting your coal career with a handfed really is a great learning experience, like in work they look at me like the coal god, no one else there knows coal. Then you got the pellet weenies....sorry, I need to stay on subject...............:>
Uglysquirrel
 
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: TurboJoe On: Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:39 pm

Hello to all from a new 'coal newbie' !
After reading various posts about the manometer and barometric damper, I am still confused.

I'm reading 0.04 on the positive side of the manometer.

That is with the baro weight as light as it can be set. The baro door swings freely and is typically open about 1/2 inch at a flue temp of 200 degrees.

I've read posts that say the reading should be negative .

My baro tube is inserted about 7 inches up from the top of the stove, the flue then has a 90 degree bend and then the barometric damper leveled and mounted in the horizontal, then 2 feet of pipe into the chimney, and sealed with furnace cement. The manometer tube connected to the 'LOW' side, with the "HIGH' side open to the air.

So ... positive or negative ?

Thanks,
TurboJoe
 

Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: Uglysquirrel On: Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:07 am

With what you are saying the manometer's red liquid should be climbing the right side of the rising scale to give your reading. This is correct. This is caused by a negative (suction) created by your pipe inserted in the smoke pipe. You can recreate this by sucking on the hose similar to a straw and watch the red liquid rise up the scale. This is not a manly thing to do, do not perform this in front of a lot of friends drinking beer.
Uglysquirrel
 
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: Dann757 On: Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:42 am

I used 1/4 copper icemaker line. I drilled right through the single wall black pipe and soldered it in place. I carefully took the rib off the Dwyer hose with a razor blade, and gave it a tight fit transition to the copper.
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Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: WNY On: Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:45 am

It depends on which side you have the the pressure hooked to (hi/low), many of us hook it up so it reads on the RIGHT which is Positive, BUT we know its a vacuum and is always Negative pressure.
WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
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Re: Dwyer manometer with a LL

PostBy: SMITTY On: Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:49 am

I just used automotive vacuum hose. Not the prettiest setup, but it was quick, cheap & simple - just how I like it! ;)
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SMITTY
 
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