End of Bin Feed Pipe rusted away

Stoker-man,

Its been a long time since I posted. Hope everyone is doing good. I have a question about the bin feed pipe.

I was trying to figure out why the auger was tough to turn so I emptied the coal bin, and took apart the feed pipe. Turns out the muck from the wet coal was impacted several inches into the bin feed pipe, and the pipe either rusted away or was scraped away by the feeding coal. I just have a hole where the pipe feeds into the bin (see picture). Should I notch this all the way down to the bottom of the bin to let more water out? I do have holes drilled in the bin to let out water. The only problem with making this bigger is the coal will come out too. Any recommendations? The coal dust seems to be hardened inside the feed tube like cement... I attached some pictures.

May I buy a new stainless steel bin feed pipe? The original size seems to be about 61.5" long.

Thanks,

Dave

I know with standard pipe that is not unusual after many years and how much is going to depend on the drainage. Ours for example really never sees much moisture at all is practically like new after more than 25 years.

If you usually have wet coal, you should go with the stainless steel pipe. 2" Sch. 40

Stoker-man,

Is CSM the correct distributor to order this part? Can I order directly from EFM and pay for direct shipment so I don't have to drive several hours to pick it up?

Thanks,

Dave

You can order through CSM and we can ship to your house.

Thanks for everyone's help. I bought a piece of galvanized 2" sch 40 from Home Depot, and am using this until I order a replacement. It seems to work great. I even painted it blue to match the other pieces. I'll probably buy the stainless pipe from EFM as a replacement. I wanted to get the coal running this week since its already in the 50's now here in NE. I replied to someone via PM, but its stuck in the outbox for days so I am posting this reply.

I have 9.5 tons of coal for the winter. I hope its cold this winter!

Thanks,

Dave

stoker-man wrote:If you usually have wet coal, you should go with the stainless steel pipe. 2" Sch. 40

He's telling you what you need. Its just regular pipe. Unless its cheaper through a EFM dealer?

Glad you got it fixed. If you ever use the Home Depot method for the other end of the tube (stoker side) be sure to drill vent holes in the top of the pipe and put a slot in it so it locks securely into the stoker pot and can't spin. Also use aluminum or stainless or you might not ever get it out again.

I now have 2" SS pipe, but only because I had some left over from a sewage pump rail installation. Don't forget the pin slot and to drill a series of 1/4" holes the same location as the old one had. I even anti seize the cast housing after cleaning it up real well, taking care to not plug up any openings. For those who have had to remove an old rusted, corroded or otherwise ruined pipe....the 2 studs tapped into the housing to secure the feed pipe should be cleaned up real well and get a dab of anti-seize too. I always replace the square topped locking studs with Allen screw studs so that the next time, I get to save more skin! It is a challenge to not leave DNA all over the damned thing. I suppose 50 years is darned good service before repairs are necessary.......just tough to overcome those years of rusting in a hot environment.

PS: any 2" pipe will work, galvie electrical conduit (sch 40 or 80)black pipe,(sch 40 or 80). Thin wall would work for a shorter time if that is all you could find. Remember PPPPPPP, so don't wait until the holidays; blizzards; or factory vacations to stock up on spares. Keep a motor, blower coupling, shear pins, a circulator or zone valve head handy. 'Short money' for a 15 minute fix in an emergency. Beats the H**l out of a $150 service call!