Opinions - Which Hand Feed Coal Stove Is the Better?
I can purchase a Harman (Hearth Type) Mark II with blower for $1399 plus $325 for the dampter adapter plate - insulation & 6 foot of titanium 6inch piping. The stove expert at this store says that Harman states No Barometric Dampers to be used - my questions are
1. Does anyone currently have this stove & are you happy with it? Pros & Cons?
2. Can this stove operate with a Barometric Damper installed?
I like the fact that this stove will burn all 3 types of anthracite coal, & has a long burn time & will operate just fine if the power goes out - (blower just won't work) & installation seems fairly easy.
Regards
Sonny
1. Does anyone currently have this stove & are you happy with it? Pros & Cons?
2. Can this stove operate with a Barometric Damper installed?
I like the fact that this stove will burn all 3 types of anthracite coal, & has a long burn time & will operate just fine if the power goes out - (blower just won't work) & installation seems fairly easy.
Regards
Sonny
Hi and welcome to the forum.
Did you check out a Coal Chubby? http://www.chubbystove.com/
It uses a barometric draft regulator, a manual stovepipe damper, and can also burn all three types of anthracite. Plus you can get it with a blower, top or rear vent, and it has a unique warm charm that appeals to the ladies.
Just a thought.
It also has a better price tag too! I love my Chubby!
Did you check out a Coal Chubby? http://www.chubbystove.com/
It uses a barometric draft regulator, a manual stovepipe damper, and can also burn all three types of anthracite. Plus you can get it with a blower, top or rear vent, and it has a unique warm charm that appeals to the ladies.
Just a thought.
It also has a better price tag too! I love my Chubby!
- whistlenut
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Doug, add 'stove' to love my chubby! Don't want folks to get the wrong idea!
The Chubby was and still is the most cost effective stove in it's price range. They are great heat producers, and last all night easily....and as you say, burn all 3 grades of Anthracite. Even The JR is a heating machine!
The Chubby was and still is the most cost effective stove in it's price range. They are great heat producers, and last all night easily....and as you say, burn all 3 grades of Anthracite. Even The JR is a heating machine!
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1
Yes. solid stove that runs great. The shaker system can dump the fire if you are careless. Never a problem for me. Fan makes some noise, as all fans do.
2
Yes. would not run my stove without one. They may have ment Manual Pipe Damper.
Yes. solid stove that runs great. The shaker system can dump the fire if you are careless. Never a problem for me. Fan makes some noise, as all fans do.
2
Yes. would not run my stove without one. They may have ment Manual Pipe Damper.
- coal berner
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I believe The stove expert is confused between A Manual hand damper & A Barometric Damper .sonny wrote:I can purchase a Harman (Hearth Type) Mark II with blower for $1399 plus $325 for the dampter adapter plate - insulation & 6 foot of titanium 6inch piping. The stove expert at this store says that Harman states No Barometric Dampers to be used - my questions are
1. Does anyone currently have this stove & are you happy with it? Pros & Cons?
2. Can this stove operate with a Barometric Damper installed?
I like the fact that this stove will burn all 3 types of anthracite coal, & has a long burn time & will operate just fine if the power goes out - (blower just won't work) & installation seems fairly easy.
Regards
Sonny
Harmans say no to M.H.D on there stoves and Yes to a Baro Damper . If you want to save on coal and keep the heat in the stove a house then you need a baro damper on it . If you want to heat the Neightborhood from all the heat going up and out the chimney then do not put one on .
- CoalHeat
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Wrong, Wrong, Wrong.The stove expert at this store says that Harman states No Barometric Dampers to be used
Exactly right as usual, JC.I believe The stove expert is confused between A Manual hand damper & A Barometric Damper .
No MPD on an airtight stove. Harman specifically forbids the use of one in the manual.
The Mark series are great stoves, it will do the job and last for years.
Take a ride and save some cash: Check this out:
<deleted dead link>
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The Mark II come up on craigslist...
Hitzer too...
If the 'expert' does not know the difference between a MPD and a barometric damper...
they are no expert!
Consider a used stove...
I got my Mark II and 10 bags of coal for $500...
Right place...
Right time...
Cash in Hand!
Hitzer too...
If the 'expert' does not know the difference between a MPD and a barometric damper...
they are no expert!
Consider a used stove...
I got my Mark II and 10 bags of coal for $500...
Right place...
Right time...
Cash in Hand!
Well my local Craigs List turns up not much in coal stoves -
Wondering about the install - I would be placing the stove on a 2ft hearth & connect from the rear of the stove - thru my damper opening , & run some titanium up beyond the smoke shelf. This would be exhausting into an 8x12 flue liner . At the end of the chimney there is a opened area on 3 sides & then a cement cap - open area is about 8 inches. I would think that this chimney should draw well (never had a wood fire to check) only gas logs.
What about installing the barometric damper? I would assume that it is best to install close to where the stove connection would be made at the rear of the stove , so that I can monitor & adjust ?
Does a stove such as the Mark II get sizzling hot, when on high heat? The wood mantle would be about 12 inches above the rear of the stove & the side wood trim about 2feet. This is a full masonry fireplace , they just overdid the fancy mantle & trims-ie they covered up some brick.
One last thing is it super important to insulate around the pipe that goes thru the damper?
Appreciate all the help!
Sonny
Wondering about the install - I would be placing the stove on a 2ft hearth & connect from the rear of the stove - thru my damper opening , & run some titanium up beyond the smoke shelf. This would be exhausting into an 8x12 flue liner . At the end of the chimney there is a opened area on 3 sides & then a cement cap - open area is about 8 inches. I would think that this chimney should draw well (never had a wood fire to check) only gas logs.
What about installing the barometric damper? I would assume that it is best to install close to where the stove connection would be made at the rear of the stove , so that I can monitor & adjust ?
Does a stove such as the Mark II get sizzling hot, when on high heat? The wood mantle would be about 12 inches above the rear of the stove & the side wood trim about 2feet. This is a full masonry fireplace , they just overdid the fancy mantle & trims-ie they covered up some brick.
One last thing is it super important to insulate around the pipe that goes thru the damper?
Appreciate all the help!
Sonny
I like my MKIII. You will too. Don't want to start the "War" going again on MPD VS Baro" but I use a MPD on it. I have been too busy to try or spend the $ in getting a Baro set up to try. I did not have one issue last season from Oct. mild temps to 30 below at the worst. But I have a good draft from my chimney. I used a MPD on my Chubby for 14 years as well with no issues..with a crappy chimney. I had a small pot belly I used one on as well.
Most important is to have a good CO 2 detector 10 feet from stove and in the bedrooms. That's goes for any setup as well.
I'm already buring now as temps are in the 30's nights and raw 50's during the day.. I just keep it real low...Hopefully I can go from now until April before looseing the fire like last year. I use Pea now as I can get it to simmer down. Nut once it gets colder.
Most important is to have a good CO 2 detector 10 feet from stove and in the bedrooms. That's goes for any setup as well.
I'm already buring now as temps are in the 30's nights and raw 50's during the day.. I just keep it real low...Hopefully I can go from now until April before looseing the fire like last year. I use Pea now as I can get it to simmer down. Nut once it gets colder.
A new Question: Best way to install a fitting above my fireplace - so that I could install a pipe thru the wall above my fireplace - doing this would allow me more options in coal stove choices
Who has done this & could give some much needed advice? I would have to first drill thru heavy cement wire lath plaster & then thru cement block - thru brick & thru the 8 x 12 flu liner & hopefully dead center of this flue liner
Seems doing this would eliminate alot of problems ie having enough room to install a pipe damper , pipe is above the smoke chamber - no hassle of cutting out the damper & insulating - and I believe it may draw better -
For those who have done it How? & was it worth it?
I'm Jonesing to get a stove, but want to prepare the best way possible
Sonny
Who has done this & could give some much needed advice? I would have to first drill thru heavy cement wire lath plaster & then thru cement block - thru brick & thru the 8 x 12 flu liner & hopefully dead center of this flue liner
Seems doing this would eliminate alot of problems ie having enough room to install a pipe damper , pipe is above the smoke chamber - no hassle of cutting out the damper & insulating - and I believe it may draw better -
For those who have done it How? & was it worth it?
I'm Jonesing to get a stove, but want to prepare the best way possible
Sonny
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From your description it sounds like yours is an outside flue. There are machines capable of drilling the right size hole for the thimble. You might inquire at your local mason supply.
The usual way is to use a 1 inch star drill and 3 or 4 pound sledge to make a hole and then chip it to the size you want. This will make a mess but your concern is only with the face which is harder to restore, the under part is easy since you only have to fill in around the thimble with rubble.
This is a neater better installation rather than going through the damper. You can seal off the damper area with fiberglass or better still face off the whole thing with masonry. Remember that chimney will still need access to clean it.
An 8 x 12 flue is too large to maintain draft at low firing rates, especially with an outside chimney, and your fire might die. One ingenious solution a member used was to simply use a flat plate on the top of the chimney with a smaller hole in it. This caused the flue gas to linger longer in that large flue and keep it hotter for better draft. Certainly worth a try before considering a liner which is expensive and a great deal of trouble.
Richard
The usual way is to use a 1 inch star drill and 3 or 4 pound sledge to make a hole and then chip it to the size you want. This will make a mess but your concern is only with the face which is harder to restore, the under part is easy since you only have to fill in around the thimble with rubble.
This is a neater better installation rather than going through the damper. You can seal off the damper area with fiberglass or better still face off the whole thing with masonry. Remember that chimney will still need access to clean it.
An 8 x 12 flue is too large to maintain draft at low firing rates, especially with an outside chimney, and your fire might die. One ingenious solution a member used was to simply use a flat plate on the top of the chimney with a smaller hole in it. This caused the flue gas to linger longer in that large flue and keep it hotter for better draft. Certainly worth a try before considering a liner which is expensive and a great deal of trouble.
Richard