tvb wrote:When it happened to me last year, I couldn't see it either even with the hopper emptied. I had to stick my hand down in the feed mechanism to pull out the chunk that was jamming it up. I was able to do it while the stove was burning but was also on many drugs recovering from surgery at the time so my judgment was probably a bit skewed.
Did you pull the entire shaft out when it happened to you last year? I don't know how. Like I said it's pretty tight in the sleeve or whatever you want to call it. Maybe a puller, or a slide hammer?
No zerk fittings, there are 2 set screws (y I don't know) in the housing which I've removed and keep introducing PB (Penetrating blaster, like wd on steroids) into the holes; and 2 set screws that are supposed to keep the cog meshed with the rod. At this point, if I force the paddle back and forth and then tighten the set screws in the cog real tight, it will turn the paddle a little bit, but then it lets go. Now I COULD fire a self-tapping screw into one of the set screw holes on the cog, which would force it to stay meshed with the rod; But as I said earlier I am afraid to do that because if the rod is too tight, I am afraid I will break the motor by doing this.
So: 1. with the paddle and rod disconnected from the rest of the linkage, how much effort should be required to turn it? Should it be moveable by hand? and 2. If so, how would one remove this rod? Straight up and out of the hopper I suppose, but just yank and yank until it comes or is there a snap ring somewhere or something i'm not seeing?
We're getting there, thanks guys!