AXEMAN 101 *Class Is in Session!*
- Yanche
- Member
- Posts: 3026
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2005 12:45 pm
- Location: Sykesville, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea
For a AA260 boiler AA says to use 6 inch stovepipe and an 8 inch type M baro. See attached image from the appendix of the AA installation manual.
I have my AHS 130 Coal Gun install like this using 5 inch stovepipe and a 6 inch type RC baro. I had to add additional weight to get the baro flapper to stay open as suggested. Using this setup I've not had the baro door blow off in a "puff back" situation. If fact a vigorous buff back will clean your stove pipe. Just blows everything into my chimney's clay liner. A design feature.
I have my AHS 130 Coal Gun install like this using 5 inch stovepipe and a 6 inch type RC baro. I had to add additional weight to get the baro flapper to stay open as suggested. Using this setup I've not had the baro door blow off in a "puff back" situation. If fact a vigorous buff back will clean your stove pipe. Just blows everything into my chimney's clay liner. A design feature.
Attachments
- whistlenut
- Member
- Posts: 3548
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 17, 2007 6:29 pm
- Location: Central NH, Concord area
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA130's,260's, AHS130&260's,EFM900,GJ & V-Wert
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska, Keystoker-2,Leisure Line
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska, Gibraltar, Keystone,Vc Vigilant 2
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
- Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
- Other Heating: Oil HWBB
Oh my GAWD! Don't you just hate it when the answer to many problems is: Read the manual!
I've missed too many opportunities to make a small job really a small job....simply because I didn't read the directions.
I do have 2 AA 260's running for 32 years now, and each has a 6" baro and has worked perfectly all this time. I also have an AHS 260 with a 6" baro. Ditto on the way it runs....The EFM 900 has a 10", 8" on the 520's, 6" on the AHS and AA 130's. I still don't think it's rocket science, but I am willing to learn.
All chimneys are inside. 35 footers , so they draft extremely well....but it's nice to learn something new every day!
Thanks, Yanche!
PS: how's the ahs running with the mods you did recently? I have a question about the thermocouple, and fugi.
I've missed too many opportunities to make a small job really a small job....simply because I didn't read the directions.
I do have 2 AA 260's running for 32 years now, and each has a 6" baro and has worked perfectly all this time. I also have an AHS 260 with a 6" baro. Ditto on the way it runs....The EFM 900 has a 10", 8" on the 520's, 6" on the AHS and AA 130's. I still don't think it's rocket science, but I am willing to learn.
All chimneys are inside. 35 footers , so they draft extremely well....but it's nice to learn something new every day!
Thanks, Yanche!
PS: how's the ahs running with the mods you did recently? I have a question about the thermocouple, and fugi.
- coal berner
- Member
- Posts: 3600
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 09, 2007 12:44 am
- Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
What is wrong using a 7" tee to run the 6" half way into it much less space to seal up at the ends of tee if you use a 8" tee more space will be inbetween the 6" to the 8" tee The 7" tee with a 8" to a 7" reducer with a 8" baro would workYanche wrote:For a AA260 boiler AA says to use 6 inch stovepipe and an 8 inch type M baro. See attached image from the appendix of the AA installation manual.
I have my AHS 130 Coal Gun install like this using 5 inch stovepipe and a 6 inch type RC baro. I had to add additional weight to get the baro flapper to stay open as suggested. Using this setup I've not had the baro door blow off in a "puff back" situation. If fact a vigorous buff back will clean your stove pipe. Just blows everything into my chimney's clay liner. A design feature.
I know 7" stuff is harder find in some area's but it will give a tighter fit 1" vs 2" space Whatever he uses the tee and baro must be as close to the chimney flue as possible . PS. Coal if you can't find a 7" Tee or the 8" to 7" Reducer let me know I have a local place that has them I will send them to you if you want to go that route .
- Yanche
- Member
- Posts: 3026
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2005 12:45 pm
- Location: Sykesville, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea
I don't think there is any problem using a 7 inch pipe into the chimney collar with the 6 inch flue pipe. The text of the AA manual recommends this concentric pipe method for "excessive natural draft" chimney conditions. What the design does is provide a path for the natural draft to bypass the chimney path with an area larger than could be accomplished with a single baro on the stovepipe alone. Fields Controls recommends two baro's next to each other on the stovepipe for high draft conditions. Both accomplish the same objective, a large cross sectional area that bypasses the stovepipe.
I favor the AA suggested method because it directs the "puff back" gases directly into the chimney, greatly reducing the likelihood of blowing the damper door off the baro. Perhaps there is also a Bernoulli effect going on which would increase the idle draft condition to the boiler breach. I've not made any measurements to support that hypothesis
I favor the AA suggested method because it directs the "puff back" gases directly into the chimney, greatly reducing the likelihood of blowing the damper door off the baro. Perhaps there is also a Bernoulli effect going on which would increase the idle draft condition to the boiler breach. I've not made any measurements to support that hypothesis
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13761
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
OK, I have an L shaped piece of steel about a half inch wide and an eighth thick with one hole in the end, where does it go?
- LsFarm
- Member
- Posts: 7383
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
- Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Got a photo ? It doesn't sound like an AA part. Maybe part of the 'doghouse'? or do you have the optional coal agitator? If so, it may be part of that mechanism.
Greg L
Greg L
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13761
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
Its shaped like a boomerang. One leg is 3" long and the other is 2 1/2" with a hole in one end. I know I took it off of this thing, but that was a while ago and I'm pretty sure I said to my brother " now remember where this came from".
I take it the rope asbestos base gasket is a deleted item? I think the literature that came with this thing that came with this pre-dates my birth. It clearly states everything is to be slathered liberally with asbestos.
I take it the rope asbestos base gasket is a deleted item? I think the literature that came with this thing that came with this pre-dates my birth. It clearly states everything is to be slathered liberally with asbestos.
Been there, done that I now take pictures of anything I disassemble, for reference during assemblycoaledsweat wrote: I know I took it off of this thing, but that was a while ago and I'm pretty sure I said to my brother " now remember where this came from".
I also label all parts with a numbered label. You need two labels with the same number, one label gets put on each piece where there is a bolt removed.
- Freddy
- Member
- Posts: 7292
- Joined: Fri. Apr. 11, 2008 2:54 pm
- Location: Orrington, Maine
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
- Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined
My AA came with a little note stapled on the manual "Please note, there is no asbestos used".
Hey Festus, what you like bestus? "I like asbestos"
Hey Festus, what you like bestus? "I like asbestos"
- whistlenut
- Member
- Posts: 3548
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 17, 2007 6:29 pm
- Location: Central NH, Concord area
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA130's,260's, AHS130&260's,EFM900,GJ & V-Wert
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska, Keystoker-2,Leisure Line
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska, Gibraltar, Keystone,Vc Vigilant 2
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
- Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
- Other Heating: Oil HWBB
Freddy, you are going to have to 'charge' for all this humor! Don't give away all the secrets before they buy and fire em up!
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13761
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
So no gasket is used between the vessel and base, is that correct? This one had nothing.
- coal berner
- Member
- Posts: 3600
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 09, 2007 12:44 am
- Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
No None air tight unit being the floor is open I did see some with a flat gasket between the boiler top and base if you have some use it if not don't worry about it I think your L shape piece goes on the leg stand or on the side of base to hold the ash arm control trying to remember only moved 25 or so of them AA look at the pick belowcoaledsweat wrote:So no gasket is used between the vessel and base, is that correct? This one had nothing.
http://www.axeman-anderson.com/pdf/anthratube.pdf
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13761
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
I looked at it close on the end with the hole and deduced from the marks on the steel that it was bolted to something slotted. I'm pretty sure it was in the ashing area anyway. Looking at the rectangular steel asher mount, it has 2 bolts that hold it down. I'm going to say it is 26GT191 Ratchet Pawl Guide and it goes under the right hand bolt. It sticks out like a finger and turns toward the coal tubes feed end. Confirmation?
- coal berner
- Member
- Posts: 3600
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 09, 2007 12:44 am
- Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Yea might be the Ratchet Pawl guide well is the bracket for it Could not think of it before but knew what you where talking about I had one of those brain fart momentscoaledsweat wrote:I looked at it close on the end with the hole and deduced from the marks on the steel that it was bolted to something slotted. I'm pretty sure it was in the ashing area anyway. Looking at the rectangular steel asher mount, it has 2 bolts that hold it down. I'm going to say it is 26GT191 Ratchet Pawl Guide and it goes under the right hand bolt. It sticks out like a finger and turns toward the coal tubes feed end. Confirmation?
- whistlenut
- Member
- Posts: 3548
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 17, 2007 6:29 pm
- Location: Central NH, Concord area
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA130's,260's, AHS130&260's,EFM900,GJ & V-Wert
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska, Keystoker-2,Leisure Line
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska, Gibraltar, Keystone,Vc Vigilant 2
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
- Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
- Other Heating: Oil HWBB
Are you a surgeon in the Rhode Island Hospital Network that keeps operating on the wrong body parts? Spare parts are not life threatening in a stoker, but in the hospital........
I use a flat rope gasket between the base and the boiler. It seems stupid to do so considering the base is open to the floor anyway, but it 'seems right'.
Like I always say: It ain't rocket science, Jethro! Somehow it seems that these units could be brought up the today's standards for short money; kinda makes you look at the new Royall Stokers as a shot outside the inner corporate circle.
Do something, even if it's wrong! ( and I don't think it is!) Should-A, Could-A, Would-A......and the horse is long gone because the barn door was left open.
I use a flat rope gasket between the base and the boiler. It seems stupid to do so considering the base is open to the floor anyway, but it 'seems right'.
Like I always say: It ain't rocket science, Jethro! Somehow it seems that these units could be brought up the today's standards for short money; kinda makes you look at the new Royall Stokers as a shot outside the inner corporate circle.
Do something, even if it's wrong! ( and I don't think it is!) Should-A, Could-A, Would-A......and the horse is long gone because the barn door was left open.