AA130 Water Quantity?

I've searched high and low to find out how much water a 130 holds to no avail. Anyone have an idea as to how much? Just calculating how much antifreeze I will need.

I think it's 28 gallons. Give AA a call they'd know for sure.

Ya know Freddy for some reason 29 keeps popping into this noggin. Then looking at it I can't see where it could possibly hold that water.

Just got off the phone with AA, 22 gallons is the official number.

I'm sending you a PM regarding just what parts it will take to make you into a 'Girlie Man', and put the buckets and hods away.

R U fired yet? I'm wondering if you are ready, might be over there this weekend, depending upon weather. Is the Stroker Stoker close to where you live?

22? I was close! Me thinks with enough pressure it would bulge to 28.

Don't forget to calculate what's in the pipes. Let's see how my memory is on this...I think 10 feet of 3/4" copper holds a quart.

Do you really want to put that poison in those pipes?

Do not use automotive A/F if the boiler has any connection with your DHW service.

I have to ask, why antifreeze? You are not planning to use antifreeze inside the boiler are you? Water actually conducts or transfers heat better than other liquids.

No, not that kind of antifreeze. I'll buy the stuff that's supposed to be in there. There is no connection to DHW at the present, probably next year with an indirect.

While I don't plan on the unit going down in the winter it's much easier to get it prepped now rather than when it's below zero.

As for antifreeze in the boiler, there's already greenish blue stuff floating around and I think Scott said it had antifreeze in it when he picked it up.

Wouldn't think my WA exchanger could hold much over a gallon, 300' of 1"pap should hold around 12 gallons and 22 in the boiler makes 35 gallons in the system.

I just finished my aa130 install, the pipes are in the attic so I used a low limit aquastat and insulation to prevent the pipes from freezing, even if the fire goes out the circulator should run and my temp. should never get that low, especially with global warming on its way.

22 gal in the boiler = an average 50 in the radiation and 20gal in the pipe.

Add that all up and expect more like 90 to 100 gal total in the system

What will you do with all that poisoned water if you need to open the system?

Isn't there anti-freese that is non-threatening?

Yes, it's non toxic. Here, many outside melting loops have non toxic in there loops, usually separated by a plate heat exchanger from the boiler proper. The transfer rate with anti freeze is somewhere near 88% of what water is, however the biggest thing is that the stuff is so slippery that it could reside in Washington, DC and be undetected for years. It really is slippery, and does sneak past valve packing, bleeder screws, etc. Is it a big deal? Hell no, just be aware that you need to test the PH every other year because it can go acidic if not monitored, and then you can do the whole system over again. It isn't any more poisonous that the water circulation in the boiler anyway. Who flushes out the acid flux and other crap that resides there?

Any supply house will have pallets of non toxic specifically for boilers, but probably a few skin-milk types will try RV non toxic....and next spring the bitchin' starts....then the parts start to go south.....
I would agree that unless you absolutely need the freeze protection, then start without it. It is easy to add if you have to go that route. I prefer the low temp loop circulator, so no fuss. I assume the boiler is not in the house, and that you are doing a primary/secondary type of hook-up, so won't water be running 24/7 anyway? If it is a power loss issue, it's a very good idea to have a generator anyway. In case no one told you, the non toxic boiler anti freeze does not stay liquid at very low temps, it turns to a gel like substance. There is no expansion index, so pipes are protected, as are all cirs, zone values, values, etc.
It is a security blanket for less than 200 bucks, so as they say: the ball is in your court. Good luck......strap on that hopper, spark it up. Do you have a parts list for the AA/AHS hybred? Kinda wondering what was left on the boiler when they neutered it. Brackets? gear box? Motor with double pulleys? Anthrastat? I'm guessing that they used a timer vs the anthrastat when the trans-boiler surgery took place. Any close up pics of the blower end of things? Right side? Is the rachet pawl still installed, solenoid for the ashing arm? Only you and I will know why I'm asking all these questions.....
Heard from the Stroker? Is he down in PA hauling back some pure carbon based fuel?

Our pres was at MIT today to fast talk the World away from carbon based fuels......Downtown Bean Town and all the interstates were a real PITA for most of the day..............

You guys almost have me convinced to forego the antifreeze. The AA is in the garage, 150' away from the heat exchanger in the house. My plan is to run the circ 24/7 to the house and turn the fan on with a relay and T-stat. That way the exchanger is always warm and when the fan shuts down, I don't get any cool draft as the air will be sucked through the exchanger on it's way out my roof

The good part of this is I'll have more heat than I need for less money

I'll snap a few pics today so we can ascertain what's needed Whistlenut. Check your PMs.

If you have a way to quickly and effectively drain your system in the middle of winter you could probably forget the antifreeze. Boiler antifreeze that I have seen was ethylene glycol based, same as car antifreeze. If using antifreeze you would drain it into a container, strain it and re-use it. Antifreeze would be too expensive to just throw away. If you want to get rid of it later on down the road ask the local car repair shop who takes their old antifreeze.

Antifreeze may be a big headache but a bulged and/or split A-A 130 will be a bigger one. If you spend a couple days away from home in the winter and nobody would be around to repair and relight the boiler should a breakdown occur or drain it as a last resort, antifreeze may be warranted.