It's probably the way they weld it on or assemble it. It wouldn't take much either way to make it shut snug on one stove and a little less on the next batch and or stove. The Chubby I had had a tapered piece so when you shut the door and bore down it would ride on the taper thus tighteing it to were you felt comfortable about sealing it. After time I ran out of that and had to replace the gasket to get it back to sealing snug. But it was years I believe so the tapered catch from the Chubby was a good design and worked good for 14 years I owned it. Hat' s off to Larry Trainer..SMITTY wrote:Mine fell out too when new. With the Mark I, I never had a problem - it was as if the paint cured & formed a strong bond with the gasket. Not with the III though - it fell out on me a few times during the first couple weeks. I pulled it out & sprayed paint in there .... just stuck the nozzle right in so I didn't have to mask the glass ( stove running too), then jammed the gasket back in & closed the door for the night. It's been fine since.
The door definitely does not close as tightly as the Mark I did ......
Gasket and Cement Kit From Lowes for the Harman
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- Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 11, 2009 1:29 pm
- Location: Byfield MA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III 21yrs
- Coal Size/Type: Nut coal
I have a lot of control problems with my mark III when the gaskets are worn. 1/2" round Rutland with the clear cement every year. Don't stretch the gasket when installing.