Manometer installed

I think this will be my final pictures for this burning season. Happy 2007 everyone.

Coal kid where did you get the manometer and what was it's cost
Thanx, Stay wawm, Jimmy

wenchris wrote:Coal kid where did you get the manometer and what was it's cost
Thanx, Stay wawm, Jimmy

It is a Dwyer, abut $30 @ Grainger's or other commercial supply house. Plumbing supply should have it too. Here is some info.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pressu ... ction2.cfm

HELLO ALL,
JUST PICKED ONE UP ON FRIDAY,12/29/06. THE COST WAS 39.00 WITH THE TAX.GOT IT AT GRAINGERS. MOUNTED IT TO THE BOILER. WORKS GREAT.

PITTSTON VAL

I ordered mine factor direct from Dwyer Inst. I ordered via their website, but it didn't show the shipping costs. $31.75, plus shipping. I'd call and order because they don't show the shipping costs on your order, anywhere. I had a problem with my order and I need to call them when they are open again Tuesday, I really hope they didn't charge me $62 for shipping.

Here is a link to their prices.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pressu ... 0Price.CFM

The most it could cost to Dwyer to ship that thing anywhere in the continental USA is about $4. If they get more than $8 I would start getting grumpy.

THAT'S A GOOD PRICE IF YOUR NOT IN A HURY. HOPE YOUR RIGHT ABOUT THE SHIPPING CHARGES. GRAINGER'S HAS THEM IN STOCK IN ALMOST EVERY STORE. I JUST FIND THEM CLOS AND AVAILABLE.

PITTSTON VAL

Take a look at these for sale on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... &rd=1&rd=1

If one of us were to buy all three available, the cost would be $47/3=~$16 each plus additional shipping, probably less than $10 each.

If someone says they will buy them and wants one for themselves, then there will be two available to interested members. I already bought one, for $29, so I don't need another.

Greg L

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We need only one bidder, so we are not bidding against each other. Who's willing to step up to the plate? What are you willing to pay?

Yanche

There are other pictures of the manometer setup on the general stove pictures thread. FYI... I didn't have to shut down to install the manometer port.

http://www.nepadigital.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=6045#6045

Hello All
Noticed this thread and hope you wont mind a question from a novice. In this set up do you have a external draft damper, I dont see a T-pipe installed and cant tell from the pic. Looks like you just have a strait pipe out with a internal damper that cuts the draft and is measured by the meter. My understanding is that you need a draft control that allows external air to cut the pull of air out of the fire box due to the presure diferential between the firebox (hot air) and the outside air at the other end of the chimney. Thus limiting overfire of the stove. Can I avoid intalling a T-pipe and barometric draft by installing an internal damper in the pipe and hooking it to one of these meters ?? A better understanding of your pipe configuration would help

Thanks
Tom in PA

Tom
I'm a novice too, it’s my first year burning and boy is it great. That’s where I got my name "coal kid".

This picture shows my setup the best.




I have a simple setup. You can barely see the damper, it’s above the copper pipe and behind the plenum hanger. I only have an “in stack” damper right now. People have done it this way for 100s for years., but I’m a step ahead of the old timers using a meter. I had no meter until Christmas, and started in October burning. It takes out the guess-work.

I would like to install a barometric damper on my top straight pipe that would allow the basement air in to lessen the pull on the stove when I’m over burning or windy conditions. Right now I set it and hope for the best. If I am burning hard to get ready for a fresh load, after about 20 minutes of a fresh load the fire calms down and I can set it and it will pretty much stay at that setting.… as long as I’m not adjusting my combustion air. Now if the fire goes more than 8 hours, it will slow down my draft setting… because the fire gets weaker.

Stack temperature really affects the pull. If I'm burning hard my stack temp on my stove will be say 500 degrees. (With a modern stoker, you might only get 200 degree stack temps). If I slow it down by cutting the combustion air and don't adjust the damper I'll come back and my draft will go from -.05 to .-03 (too slow).

Next season I'll probably have a barometric damper (baro), that will help alot. If you have the money and don't mind shutting down your stove to install one, hook a baro up. I talked to a Alaska stoker dealer, and a barometric damper is required for new installs. That tells me, they work.

To answer your question, no, you don't "need" a baro damper. You can use a manual damper, and combined with a meter you can do pretty well.