Fighting With the WESO

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sun. Nov. 01, 2009 8:04 pm

Is this the area just above the grate? If so you can run a slicing poker in there to clear the ash.

Richard

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jpete
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Post by jpete » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 6:21 am

The problem is that X inside of a square just under the area you highlighted. That is where the grate rests and swivels from. So far the stove coal is running good. It idled down well, now I just have to see if it can provide the heat I need when it gets really cold.

 
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Post by RMA » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 8:55 am

In an old advertisement, I saw a reference to the WESO stove with a claimed out put of 30,000 BTU.

Bob

 
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Post by RMA » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 11:01 am

jpete wrote:I suppose I could take it off, but there is a bar from the load door to the ash door specifically to prevent you from revving the fire up. I opened the air inlet to "max" so I'll see what that does. So far so good. Three days is about the max I could go last year trying to run this stove without a baro. I'm at 2 1/2 days now.

And I'm just ballparking the baro setting. I need to borrow my friends and set this up right.
JPETE,
Isn't that bar an interlock? One that PREVENTS opening BOTH doors at the SAME TIME?
I believe that COALEDSWEAT is referring to opening the ash (bottom) door ONLY to "REV IT UP"
No one would ever recommend opening BOTH TOP (load) DOOR and BOTTOM (Ash) DOOR at the same time because that would both NEGATE DRAFT and FILL YOUR HOUSE WITH NOXIOUS GAS (XCarbonXMonoxideX)

I am really curious now...Could we have a look at the way that BAR (linkage) works?

Bob

 
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Post by franco b » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 1:57 pm

Weso brochure. Thought it interesting.

I see a row of holes at the bottom of the upper door when open, I assume for secondary air. You might try laying a strip of metal over them as they are probably sized for wood burning and they will steal air from your underfire air supply.

Richard

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Madhatter
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Post by Madhatter » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 6:27 pm

Just would like to know. Is that circle in the back of the ash pan area a secondary air inlet or somthing.
thanks.

 
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Post by jpete » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 6:58 pm

RMA wrote: I am really curious now...Could we have a look at the way that BAR (linkage) works?

Bob
It's literally just a piece of flat stock bolted to the upper door which extends down in front of the lower door so that you can't open the lower door without first opening the upper door.


 
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jpete
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Post by jpete » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 7:04 pm

Madhatter wrote:Just would like to know. Is that circle in the back of the ash pan area a secondary air inlet or somthing.
thanks.
That is the primary air inlet and may be why this stove doesn't want to work right. It has a 12 position setting. 6 for "Hand" operation where each notch simply opens that flap a specific amount and "Auto" where each notch is max opening but is also controlled by a bi-metallic spring so in the even of an over fire, it would close off and reduce the air going through the stove.

I had hoped the combination of the thermostatic damper and a barometric damper, this thing would be very controllable. I probably should have set it on the "Hand" setting and let it run but I didn't

Just FYI for all. I had to call "No Mas" as it choked itself out again. Chestnut might be the ticket with this stove but I haven't had any luck getting it to run longer than 8 hours between tendings and I really need it to go 10-12 which my Harman will do fairly easily.

So the Harman is back in place and I have the fire started. I guess I'll see how it does with stove coal in it. :D I just had my wife pick some up today because I was really optimistic that stove coal was going to work in the WESO. Oh well, nothing ventured nothing gained.

 
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Post by jpete » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 7:06 pm

franco b wrote:Weso brochure. Thought it interesting.

I see a row of holes at the bottom of the upper door when open, I assume for secondary air. You might try laying a strip of metal over them as they are probably sized for wood burning and they will steal air from your underfire air supply.

Richard
There are some "air wash" holes just inside the door that are controlled by the "bow tie" inlet on the front, just under the door. Even with it closed, there is a 3/16"-ish hole drilled in one side of the air door. Probably not ideal, but I don't think it would be a killer. I suppose I could be wrong.

 
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Post by whistlenut » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 7:45 pm

Boy, you are stubborn! I sure admire your tenacity, somehow it sure seems 'someone' is flogging a dead horse. Most of the European brands worked very well in their time, but they weren't 'user friendly', like many of the new stoves.
Don't see many BMW 2002's do you? Citroen's? Saab 2 strokes? Peoguet's, etc.
Lots of old swedes who live around me are equally as stubborn, however a few have gone to stokers now....some to wood pellets...... :eek2: :eek2: :fear: :fear: :crazy: :gee: :bang:

 
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Post by RMA » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 8:09 pm

jpete wrote:
RMA wrote: I am really curious now...Could we have a look at the way that BAR (linkage) works?

Bob
It's literally just a piece of flat stock bolted to the upper door which extends down in front of the lower door so that you can't open the lower door without first opening the upper door.
Jeff,

I don't understand why that would be done in that manner...counterintuitive :surrender:

Bob

 
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Post by 009to090 » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 8:13 pm

RMA wrote:
jpete wrote: It's literally just a piece of flat stock bolted to the upper door which extends down in front of the lower door so that you can't open the lower door without first opening the upper door.
Jeff,
I don't understand why that would be done in that manner...counterintuitive :surrender:
Bob
I kinda got the feeling, with where the primary air inlet is, that when the Ash door was opened, a person might have gotten a face full of ash & fumes. Hence the linkage bar was added to make it a "Cleaner" stove to sell. Easy to test: remove that bar.

 
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Post by jpete » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 8:22 pm

My grandmother used to talk about thick headed Swedes. I guess she would know! :D

And, for the record, I see a few 2002's and when I worked at Advance Auto, I had a customer who was surprised I knew what a Saab Sonnet was from across the parking lot. :D

I just can't give up until I have tried EVERYTHING :D

 
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Post by jpete » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 8:23 pm

DVC500 at last wrote: I kinda got the feeling, with where the primary air inlet is, that when the Ash door was opened, a person might have gotten a face full of ash & fumes. Hence the linkage bar was added to make it a "Cleaner" stove to sell. Easy to test: remove that bar.
Already done. Doesn't seem to make much difference.

 
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Post by whistlenut » Mon. Nov. 02, 2009 8:44 pm

I drove one of those Saab 2 strokers back from Denver to NH in June of 1965, 80 MPH all across Kansas....
Did it again from Denver in June 1966 in Plymouth Satellite 383 4 speed. 85 this time....at 1600 rpm. Man, that car was fast.
Did it one last time in Dec 1966 in another Satellite with a 440....100 for 6 hrs....1750 rpm. 23 mpg even back then on 104 octane. Saab Sonnet, jees, a GTO, Mach I, Olds 442, Buick GS 455 Stage 3, Hemi anything, 427 Cobra, not a Sonnet.

Where do you live? Put the damned WESO out beside the road, It will be gone by morning. I'm gonna let you sleep a nite or two next week, not worrying about that unfortunate piece of history.

:secret: :eek2: :fear: :flush: :woot: :bop: :bsod: :shh: :stretcher: :discuss:


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