My 1912 Hub Heater Baseburner Thread

 
User avatar
oros35
Member
Posts: 476
Joined: Mon. Feb. 02, 2009 3:47 pm
Location: Pittsburgh Pa
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Cozeburn OWB burning Bit
Baseburners & Antiques: 1912 Smith & Anthony Hub Heater #215

Post by oros35 » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 12:17 pm

That was the original plan. Something rustic that would make a wall without building a wall. I was thinking iron railing or rough cut rails with something old looking in-between. But for the practicality of easy access, I'll leave that for the next guy to install! I'm ok without it!

I burn 98% coal. Only if there is a short cold spell early or late season would I use wood. (before I get my coal trailer brought back to my basement door, or once I ran out of coal at the end of the season and the last month or so used wood, but not a continuous fire, only as needed) It doesn't burn wood well, but does fine in a pinch.

 
User avatar
joeq
Member
Posts: 5731
Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
Location: Northern CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson

Post by joeq » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 12:44 pm

Wrought iron. Yeah, that would be perfect, and easy too. Maybe Santa will bring you one for Christmas. Looks like you've got "tons" of access, even with the fence. But, hey, that's just me.
You say your hub won't do your whole house. How many sq/ft are you heating?
I know the feeling, tho. My 111 won't do our whole house either. (1500 sq/ft). These things are basically room heaters, unless the house is built around their characteristics. The most practical heater, is a furnace, ducted to each room, or a boiler. I guess it's all in what you want. Some people aren't fussy about cold spots, but with grown twin girls, and a 2 story house, it's not as comfortable as we'ld like. I do like the display, or the visual, of these old stoves, if you're looking for that "antique" look. That's why mine is in the frt room (foyer) of the house. People see it, and in the winter, "in action", and it does fine in the lower levels, and the top of the stairwell. But the other rooms, will be oil heated, when the weather gets colder. I just moved a second thermostat into our "coldest bedroom", and shut the registers off down stairs to try and get as much heat into the upper rooms, without running too long.
Your heater looks like a finished basement location, and I would think it would push some heat to the main level, if the floors are vented as such. But if you have a second floor/upstairs, I can see that being an issue. Good luck with it this winter.

 
User avatar
oros35
Member
Posts: 476
Joined: Mon. Feb. 02, 2009 3:47 pm
Location: Pittsburgh Pa
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Cozeburn OWB burning Bit
Baseburners & Antiques: 1912 Smith & Anthony Hub Heater #215

Post by oros35 » Thu. Dec. 08, 2016 9:48 am

Total square footage heated is about 3000. 1200 of that being the finished basement area. I have a 400cfm fan and duct work I put in the basement that pulls hot air from the basement and puts it in the opposite end of the house, and a stairwell at the other end that returns cold air to the basement. It circulates pretty well and keeps the house pretty evenly heated with just that one fan.

It will, and has heated the whole house for several years now, but if we get to below 0 numbers, I'm tending 3 times a day and running it way hotter that I would like to.

I have another fan that sits on the floor and blows air across the barrel of the stove, scavenging all available heat too. Without this, I would never be able to get enough heat off the stove to heat the whole house without overheating the stove. It's not the best setup, but is pretty darn efficient.

Ideally this stove would be a room heater for the basement game room it is in, more as a conversation piece. It would do fine for heating the whole house when temps are not too bad like they are now, highs in the 30's-40's.

Unfortunately I don't have many options with the way my house is laid out. The furnace in the house is 100% electric. Heat pump and heating coils. The heat pump is perfect and really cheap as long as the temps are 40 and above. I'd go broke trying to heat all year round with it though. Under about 30 degrees the heat pump is not effective and it's on the heating coils. My lights dim when they kick on! The house has been great for what I paid for it for my first house, but it is far-far from my dream house.


 
User avatar
joeq
Member
Posts: 5731
Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
Location: Northern CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson

Post by joeq » Thu. Dec. 08, 2016 11:32 am

Wow. your basement is almost as big as my whole house. I'm guessing the house is basically an open floor plan. Sounds like you've got it mostly figured out. Good job.

 
User avatar
bambooboy
Member
Posts: 2399
Joined: Wed. May. 20, 2015 6:16 am
Location: joppa maryland
Baseburners & Antiques: imperial ringgold
Other Heating: woodstock soapstone,comfort,fisher,federal,fairy oak

Post by bambooboy » Sun. Dec. 11, 2016 6:36 pm

on subject of heat pumps,one of our local heat & air installers has a radio ad that says the newer(& i'm sure pretty expensive) heat pumps are good down to 16 degrees before elect heat kicks in

Post Reply

Return to “Antiques, Baseburners, Kitchen Stoves, Restorations & Modern Reproductions”