coaledsweat wrote:Greg, I agree with the damper opening 20%, sounds like a good idea.
The baro's only function is as a draft limiter, it can do nothing but aggravate a poor draft situation as they leak even when closed.
Mark, how about some chimney details?
As I read more and more, I sense a conflict of opinions about
the baro. On one hand, it sounds like they can regulate the
draft, for optimum performance. The other take is that it is
really only there to prevent overfiring.
I have never touched mine, and have never seen mine move
from the closed position. Even the one on my boiler right next to it moves
when the wind is blowing across the chimney. (1 chimney
with 2 flues). I have no problems burning as I know it, and
feel the stove performs well, but am always wondering about
efficiency, and coal usage. I normally run with stack temps
from 200-225, but on colder weather I will open my ash door
air control to run a little hotter.
If I open my ash door before shaking, (a quick warm up), and
I then reload with high temps, I still don't see the baro move,
and I can tell there is a very good draft going on by the way the
stove is behaving.
I guess my question is this:
Without a meter, is it worth trying to adjust that baro , maybe when
I have the stove really roaring, so that it opens a bit, and watch it
as the temps come down and see if it affects the draft at normal
And, will any baro adjustment really improve performance? or is it
really just there to prevent overdraft/downdrafts?
some more details of my setup... basement location for the Mark III,
of a 1700 sq ft ranch, with masonry chimney up thru house, above peak,
and a fairly well protected area,,, not on top of a hill with high winds very common.
thanks for any input