Vermont Castings Stove Temperature?

This has been discussed in a few threads, but for some of the newer folks, I thought it could use a thread of its own: Where are you supposed to place the thermometer on a Vermont Castings coal stove? The answer: It depends. On the newer Vigilant II type stoves without the hopper a stove thermometer placed in the center of the griddle top (according to the manual) should allow accurately monitoring of the stove temp. On the older VC stoves with the hopper in place (like mine) monitor the temp by placing the thermometer on the shelf on the right side of the stove (above where the exhaust gasses exit with the internal damper closed). With either stove (especially the hopper stove with the damper open) monitoring the stovepipe temperature can be useful. As far as operating temperature goes, my range is between 200-550° F. The type II stove might operate in a significant different range because the griddle is exposed directly to the fire underneath it, while I am monitoring exhaust gas temp. Just my opinion. Any and all comments welcome.

I have to throw out a question. I have recently picked up and older vermont casting Resolute for 200 in mint hardly used condition. It also came with the coal coversion kit. I read a lot of negitive stuff on how they did not work well. I decided since I heat my home with a Keystoker K6 and love the whole coal concept for a few years to much to burn wood I went ahead and installed the coal conversion kit and fired it up with Cheastnut coal and away she went. This unit though I enjoy it is really a backup for when we get super cold days to work with the keystoker boiler. The homes 4000 sf and a little help cant hurt.
I could not get the resolute above 350 and found this great site we are on to see if I can find out why. I ran into a great forum explaining how to seal all the coal conversion parts and place a gasket on the front door to seal the bottom grate off. This worked great the units sits now at 550 and I get long burns out of the unit. I am still experimenting with it as its become a challange and a hobby like experience to play with just how to understand the unit. Now I am getting long burns 18 hours per load. I learned how to shake down, controll the air intake and thermostat and all that from this forum from the guy with the Vigilant II video and others weighing in with him.
I am confused on the damper part. I read you shut off the damper once you get her going. Since I really have nothing telling me about how to burn coal in this unit, though I have looked. I did not want to close THE DAMPER and allow the bad gas to flow back into my home.I have the origianl manual but it shows nothing on burning coal so untill I get correct info on the damper I am playing it safe.
I guess they had a seperate owners manual for that coal kit which other then a picture of the parts I cant find anything on how to use the coal for it. That said, I have been reluctant to close off the damper since its seems to be working well with the damper open. I have a super draft as the pipe runs almost 30 feet up. Can anyone tell me anything on this unit with the damper or even have a manual for the resolute coal burner for the 80s??????????????? :roll I don't know but I like how this is all working for a unit that people say were hard to burn coal in

I always called the main air inlet a "damper" too - - that might be what they meant.

HI there

sounds like you have it figured out pretty good. these stoves hava bad rep, but they need to be understood, hey they are antiques!
I call the left hand handle the damper and the fpaller on the thermostat chain the flapper. I alwasy close the damper, to make the exaust go thru the Z shaped passageways behind the fireback, it gives way more heat output than straignt up, also puts less stress on thehopper throat pieces.

Of course, ya open the damper when you tend the stove , slice, shake and load, then shut it down, usually without touching the thermostat lever setting if you wnat to keep the same output. sometimes if you want to rev up the stove some I leave the damper open till ti brightens up, then close it back down. you won't get gas into the house, coal used less air than wood to burn. I have a manual in a pfd file I can send you in email if you want, and parts blow uo too

Mine is humming along at 300 now and has been since noon (12 hrs ago) and I'll shake/slice and fill to the top now befor bed. then do it again tomorrow noon.

In real winter cold, I tend it 3-4 times a day instead of 2 times now.

did you do the door rope gasket mod?

I also really believe in using a barometric damper in the flue pipe. it keeps the chim draft even in the wind and very cold temps, then the chimny has a much higher draft. I set with a manometer and forget it. let it do it's thing.
I have co2 alams in a few places for piece of mind, and never had the register a high level . I run 2 VC stoves in the end rooms of an L shaped house and the heat everything, without the boiler coming on. sorry for being long winded here-lol enjoy the old gal!
Paul

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OK, I'll try to help you out here. First the damper: There are three types. The first two are in or attached to the stovepipe. A barometric damper is used to help control draft, a manual damper inside of the stovepipe used to restrict the flow of gasses. The VC damper is NOT either one of these types. The Vermont Castings damper is an internal damper inside of the stove the reroutes the exhaust gasses (more of a diverter) inside of the stove so that they travel a longer path before exiting into the stovepipe. This increases the efficiency of the stove. I am not too familiar with the resolute, but assuming that it is similar in operation to my Vigilant here is how it works: With the damper open your exhaust gasses go directly up into the chimney and out, this gives you maximum draft and helps when establishing the fire. With the damper closed the hot gasses are diverted to a port on the right side of the firebox (if you look you should see an opening above grates) and they flow around the back of the stove before exiting. The longer path allows the stove to extract more heat from the fire. It should be perfectly safe. When you have a fire going with some blue ladies, close the damper, and you should see them lean to the right as the airflow changes. Try it you'll like it!.

I must have been too slow typing, rewinder got an answer in between, listen to him he knows what he is talking about.

stonyloam wrote:This has been discussed in a few threads, but for some of the newer folks, I thought it could use a thread of its own: Where are you supposed to place the thermometer on a Vermont Castings coal stove? The answer: It depends. On the newer Vigilant II type stoves without the hopper a stove thermometer placed in the center of the griddle top (according to the manual) should allow accurately monitoring of the stove temp. ...>8/\8<.... The type II stove might operate in a significant different range because the griddle is exposed directly to the fire underneath it, while I am monitoring exhaust gas temp. Just my opinion. Any and all comments welcome.

stonyloam is correct about measuring the Vigilant II,model 2310. Measure it in the center of the griddle. As stated, because the fire is directly below the loading griddle, the operating range is given as 400 - 700.

Thanks I think I feel confident enough to close that damper once I get it fired up next time and continue to experiment with the old gal till I become fully confident and a novice with her as you guys are with yours. I read that in the manual about the damper but it was refering to wood so I will re read and follow all the advice from you guys.

I have been buying these old units from people for about 200.00. Taking the baffles out, cleaning them, then brushing , sanding and then doing this tedious masking and dual painting scheme and re selling them on Ebay. I have a picture of the one I painted and kept which was hardly ever used from the guy I bought it from it was mint! For 200.00
I have sold a few for a fair profit as kind of a hobby and make some extra cash. I have 6 inch pipe alreadty in place from another stive that was their so I could not go with a Vigilant. But this is fine as I really heat the home with a Keystoker K6 . I just like as a hobby to run the other stove when its gets realy cold.
The few units I have found and bought have come with in a box complete coal kits for Resolutes. I have a complete extra coal kit for a Resolute in my attic if anyone is interested?
People I guess over the years did not understand the coal process and how to seal them up removed the coal inserts and used them as wood burners as I have just learned how to make work. YES the front door gasket I added I think was the key to getting me where I am so far. Thanks to reading these forums! I don't think people had the insight to understand them, well the average person that is and went to using them for wood burners. I love it so far.I think the damper understanding will get me to the next level of using it now

boy I like the looks of your paint job! Hi temp I presume??

VigIIpeaburner, I want one of those thermometers!! I can shoot the temps from my recliner!!!

Gasoline is going up in price, heating oil will be soon too. gotta love the home grown home heating source!

time to turn on the doorway fans, the room's getting warm

keep smiln'

Paul

I like the stove! nice clean up! I also like the infered thermo. As far as temps go, I have a newer style Vigilant, I run it as high as 700 deg and at that temp the stack is about 200 deg, with a mag thermo? who knows how acurate they are. I alway close the damper and have had no trouble, it will idle as low as 250 on a warmer day and the stack is about 100deg or less. If reloading I don't close the damper untill I have had blue flames for a few minutes, if you close it too early, gasses will build up in the fire box and then light, giving a small explosion or flash back.

Bob

Thanks Paul, I really enjoy restoring these old stoves. I only look for the old vermont casting units. I love the look and all the cuts. I will be looking for some Vigilants soon. I almost had a coal burner last week for 200.00 I usually make 400.00 on them after driving to get them and a few hours restoring them. Not much for the time but its a hobby. My last Resolute I sold on Ebay a guy from Illinois came to Pa. to pick it up his wife liked the paint job so much. Yes its all stove paint. Stove bright brand they now make so many colors. The time is in the masking off so the two colors stand out. Then I use a foam brush and just highlight all the high spots and the lettering. Its fun. I get high as a kite from the spray paint
Now that I understand from you guys how to burn the coal it helps me to explain to buyers how to do it as well.

finelinevan wrote:...8<... I have 6 inch pipe alreadty in place from another stive that was their so I could not go with a Vigilant....>8...

ASFIK, all Vigilants are 6" pipe so your good to go on expanding your line up. The Defiant, both old and new needed 8" to burn in fireplace mode - with the front doors open. Even they can get away with a 6" flue in woodstove mode.

Your saying the older coal Vigilants have a 6 inch output vent pipe? I though they were and the owners manuals shows 8 inch. I would love to go to a vigalant but though they were 6 inch

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:

finelinevan wrote:...8<... I have 6 inch pipe alreadty in place from another stive that was their so I could not go with a Vigilant....>8...

ASFIK, all Vigilants are 6" pipe so your good to go on expanding your line up. The Defiant, both old and new needed 8" to burn in fireplace mode - with the front doors open. Even they can get away with a 6" flue in woodstove mode.

not tru, the vig I have is an 8" flue, and I think they had an optional 6" collar accessory

check out the pictures of my VC's--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------->>>>>>

After you said that I went back and rececked to find its an 8. I don't want to mess againt code and deduce anything that not rated per manufacturer no matter how old the unit is. But thanks all the same.

God for bid I ever had a fire the insurance company may refuse the claim . That could be a real sucker

rewinder wrote:not tru, the vig I have is an 8" flue, and I think they had an optional 6" collar accessory

check out the pictures of my VC's--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------->>>>>>

finelinevan wrote:Your saying the older coal Vigilants have a 6 inch output vent pipe? I though they were and the owners manuals shows 8 inch. I would love to go to a vigalant but though they were 6 inch

VigIIPeaBurner wrote: ASFIK, all Vigilants are 6" pipe so your good to go on expanding your line up. The Defiant, both old and new needed 8" to burn in fireplace mode - with the front doors open. Even they can get away with a 6" flue in woodstove mode.

I stated "AFIK" = as far as I know. That's were others step in. I did check the manuals for the non-cat Defiant and they state it can use 6" if they came with the optional 6"collar. rewinder states the same for the older Vigilants in that they were available with a 6" collar option ...

rewinder wrote:not tru, the vig I have is an 8" flue, and I think they had an optional 6" collar accessory

check out the pictures of my VC's--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------->>>>>>

The non-cat Defian states that with the 6" collar, it can be fired into a 6" flue but not with the front doors open ... aka: fireplace mode.

I think we're all on the same topic, just not the same page