manometer

hey all i got a question.
this afternoon i installed a baro damper and a manometer,its one of the tube type.i have it filled with water to the 0 mark,my stove is running good...about 30 out with a slight breeze,when i check my draft,the water doesnt move...nuthin...i also have the baro weight all the way out and it isnt even really flipping back and forth.
should i wait till its colder? I was using a hand damper but i thought by some of the post in here this would be a better set up,and safer. I dont want my heat going up the chimney.i can barely stand next to the stove to check the draft its so hot,the stove pipe is running around 300..as of now! it will cool to about 200 in alittle while!

First I would test your meter to see if you've hooked up the hose right and it works. Simply put the end in your mouth and give a gentle push of air and a draw back to see if it moves. If it does, then you need a small hole in the staightest portion of pipe near the middle (must be before the barometric damper). With a short length of steel tubing on the end of your hose, get the tube end in the middle of your smokepipe and there is your draft. Depending on what unit you have, set your baro to break the draft. Most stokers around .05, and handfired around .06 usually.

I finally bought my own manometer the other day, and of course they don't come with a little metal tube. You can use a short length of brake line, works great.

hey thx for responding coaled,the manometer came with the plastic tube and a brass fitting that is threaded on the end that screws into the stove pipe,i put the tube on the ribbed end thats sticking out...i have worked the water with my mouth and that works fine...my increments above zero are...1/2 1 1 1/2 2 so i assume 1/2 is .05???
but like i said....it doesnt move the water in the manometer at all....the baro isnt moving....basically saying i have no draft..LOL! my chimney does go higher than my roof....i feel i spent good money for no reason....i should still get a reading even at 30 out right?

What you have is a manometer thats used for measuring positive pressure. Usally gas. Nat Gas appl. operate at about 3 1/2 inches of water collum. What I use is an incline manometer with what I call Dwyer Fluid. Its a red fuild that is used instead of water like the one you have. Has to do with the specific gravity of the fuild or somthing like that. I think there are a couple of thread that talk about different Dwyer prouducts. I think you can get a cheep one for about $30 dollars. The one I use is about $150. I used to use to measure negative gas presure gas valves on the old Amana High Eff furnaces.

Good luck

Don

This is how I do mine. I read how Barley Master had his hooked up, and did what he did. The break line sounds like a good idea, the 2ft copper pipe was avilalbe at lowes. Its 1/4 OD, only about $2.

You need one that measures in hundreths of an inch (0.01-0.07 is our range with coal) and they typically max out around 3" in that style. Like this.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pdffil ... k2_iom.pdf

hey thx guys....it does say something on it about gas pressure,and i dont have the fine increments on it...i told the guy what it was for and everything....at a local plumbing and heating place no less. i still cant get over my baro not moving with the weight all the way out!

If you get that thing to move with a coal stove, it (the stove) will just be a puddle of metal on the floor.

The baro should have some #s on the sliding weight for a baseline setup.

really? i expected it to flop back and forth like with wood,i had one on a wood furnace and it would open and shut fairly often! i am glad ya told me gee.

bugize wrote::? really? i expected it to flop back and forth like with wood,i had one on a wood furnace and it would open and shut fairly often! i am glad ya told me gee.

No, I'm talking about the draft gauge. If a coal burner pulled the kind of draft that thing shows, it would be a blast furnace. The Baro will act about the same as wood. Sounds like you've got a good chimney.

The manometers take special fluids with a certain specific gravity. Certain colors oils with different viscosities and specific gravity for different pressures. If you are using water, it probably won't work correctly or you have to get more pressure to move the water.

Good reading.
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pressu ... ction2.cfm

coaledsweat wrote:You need one that measures in hundreths of an inch (0.01-0.07 is our range with coal) and they typically max out around 3" in that style. Like this.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pdffil ... k2_iom.pdf

this is the one you need to accuarately read your draft.

youll never get the one that reads in tenths to read 3 to 5" because your stove will most likely melt at or around 2"

we are dealing with very small units of pressure in the terms of draft.

i have my dwyer hooked to the stove in the garage which i took off my harman for the house. the one i put on the house it a magnahelic with a 0 to .3 range. its a analog gauge but i dont like it as compared the dwyer.