Surdiac Seal Repairs Needed.

 
Diesel
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Post by Diesel » Wed. Nov. 25, 2009 1:49 am

Hello,
I opened the upper door on the Surdiac yesterday and the seal is shot . I opened the doors for the heat exchanger to get the ash out and those are marginal too. It looks like a flat asbestos seal that you used to be able to buy long ago. What are people using for seals these days. And what glue can hold these on with the heat?


 
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009to090
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Post by 009to090 » Wed. Nov. 25, 2009 2:21 am

The flat seals are still available. I need them for the doors on my FireplaceXtrordinaire. Heres a link to an online store......
https://www.northlineexpress.com/category/woodsto ... askets.asp

 
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wlape3
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Post by wlape3 » Wed. Nov. 25, 2009 10:55 am

I think I used rope for the upper seal on mine.

There are several stove stores in the Reading PA area and a Surdiac dealer in Kutztown, PA.

 
Bud63
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Post by Bud63 » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 7:51 pm

Surdiac parts and accessories are available at http://www.myersfurniturepa.com. I purchase my pre-set barometric dampers at Myers’ and they have worked well for 22 years.

 
Diesel
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Post by Diesel » Wed. Dec. 02, 2009 1:38 am

i emailed Meyers for two grates ,a paddle, 5 inch baro and manual valve and door seals. I cant work on it right now as I have the flu. im starting to get stoked a bit. :D

 
Wallknight
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Post by Wallknight » Wed. Dec. 02, 2009 3:41 am

I've got a surdiac 616 that was given to me. Where are all the gaskets supposed to be? Both doors, the ash cleanouts in back, and where else? Is there supposed to be one near the top of the hopper?

 
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wlape3
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Post by wlape3 » Wed. Dec. 02, 2009 6:16 pm

Yes, on the door. You may also need one on the vent (rope type).


 
Diesel
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Post by Diesel » Wed. Dec. 02, 2009 8:36 pm

Im not a coal person yet, but I grabbed up this Surdiac 513 nearby. And have been disassembling it slowly for repairs. The top door has what I thought was a flat seal on it. A poster stated his has a rope seal. Further inspection shows that mine is a rope seal too. just flattened out. The big front door with the glass has seals around the glass and the door itself. . The ash pan door has a seal , and the two little cleanouts with the wingnuts have a seal too. I know from pictures theres two heat exchangers on mine , but I don't know if they are sealed too. As I havnt taken them apart. Ah I wonder about the lower air vent. mine has none, but all the seals are toast it could very well be just fell off.

 
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wlape3
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Post by wlape3 » Wed. Dec. 02, 2009 10:10 pm

There is no seal on the lower air inlet in the back of the stove. This is for controlling combustion. It is operated by a dial on the right-hand side of the stove (or at least it was on the 715). You shake the stove through 3 slots in the front of the stove below the main door but above the ash door. Shaking this stove is a learned art. You use a flat bladed poker with a short stabbing motion that moves from side to side. Once you get this down you will have no trouble with the stove.

 
Diesel
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Post by Diesel » Thu. Dec. 03, 2009 9:35 pm

Myers furniture came through and emailed me prices for my grates and furnace paddle , 5" pipes ,elbows, baro dampner, manual cast dampner and door and glass seals. :D :) Im very happy to found a supplier. Im going to try and get a one piece stove glass made instead of all those 1 inch pieces of glass . They are 6-7 bucks a piece x 14 of them. My understanding is Surdiac came up with all the strips of glass and figured it adds 3% to the efficiency of the stove. By radiating heat through the edges. It does look very cool too. A small price to pay for the cost I suspose. Im betting the one piece will be 20 -30 bucks down the road here at a glass place. Furthermore. does anyone besides me think this stove ws ahead of its time a bit. Except for the way you shake it. its really engineered well like a finessed tank. Or am I imagining it. :|

 
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wlape3
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Post by wlape3 » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 12:01 pm

Nope. I was told it was the cadillac of hand fed stoves at the time mine was purchased in 1988. While I've never owned another hand fed or seen one in use I think the Surdiac design is better and more efficient than what I've heard about here. Sure, it's tricky, but once you get used to it it runs well and burns up to 18 hours.

 
Wallknight
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Post by Wallknight » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 1:05 am

So the top hopper door does need a rope? Which of the two doors? the top or the one under it? It appears they used to be screwed together, but they are not now. Should they be? if not, should the screw holes be filled?
Surdiac 616
Thanks again,
Paul

 
Diesel
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Post by Diesel » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 4:52 pm

There's only one hopper door on mine . its on the top in the middle of the stove. Under the sheetmetel vents cover on the top. I use a tool to open it.

 
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wlape3
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Post by wlape3 » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 5:29 pm

Wallknight wrote:So the top hopper door does need a rope? Which of the two doors? the top or the one under it? It appears they used to be screwed together, but they are not now. Should they be? if not, should the screw holes be filled?
Surdiac 616
Thanks again,
Paul
Paul, pictures would be good. Like Diesel, I only had one door. I usually opened it with gloves on or bare fingers (but carefully). Surdiac made a bunch of different models. The 715 is just a longer, bigger version of the 515 or 513. Not sure about the 616.

Will

 
Wallknight
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Post by Wallknight » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 6:48 pm

Ok. The one standing straight up is the outer, hinged door. The one still inside in one picture but out on its side in the other is the lower door. It appears that they are meant to be screwed together.

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