Refrigerator Quit

is the evaporator (in the freezer) froze up? iced?? it is the only source of cold and from it the thermisters determine the divertion to the fridge. a frozen evap due to air leak arounf door gasket could shut things down. also ifso facto it starts the de-ice heater. can you manually put 110 to the compressor to see if its locked up? there should be a "LRA" number on the compressor locked rotor amps which would indicate the max amount of amps befor the compressor locked.

I'm going in.

Remember, NO WELDING!

OK, I took the whole bridge out of the top of the fridge, that includes the dials, light and a duct with fan way in the back. Along the side duct there was box with a circuit board in it. Would that relay be solid state? Because if it is, its toast. A big burnt spot (it smells like it) on the board right next to a black box. My guess is that was the relay. I hope the locals have a board for it in the AM. I think GE made the thing for Sears.

good job! wonder what caused the fry? hope you can get one expidited and it works. is there a p/n on it? google it...

coaledsweat wrote:OK, I took the whole bridge out of the top of the fridge, that includes the dials, light and a duct with fan way in the back. Along the side duct there was box with a circuit board in it. Would that relay be solid state? Because if it is, its toast. A big burnt spot (it smells like it) on the board right next to a black box. My guess is that was the relay. I hope the locals have a board for it in the AM. I think GE made the thing for Sears.

Parts are still available. You'll have to buy the whole circuit board though.
My thought is, it was damaged when the motor Capacitor burned out the first time. Too bad it worked until now, if it just fried completely last time, you would have gotten a free board.

Oddly enough the part number matches the Mid-South Electronics P/N on the board. That may be a good sign. Perhaps it is a universal piece? I would try to jumper it but can't figure out how, maybe shave the top off? It appears to have 8 solder points at the bottom.

From their parts site, #23.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdi ... 003&blt=06

Code: Select all

Temperature control
Number:
241508001
Size:
4.50L x 1.50W x 3.00H
In stock   $76

If any of you guys have an Omron G2RL-14-E-CF solid state relay kicking around, that is all I really need. I'll swap it for some coal.

coaledsweat wrote:If any of you guys have an Omron G2RL-14-E-CF solid state relay kicking around, that is all I really need. I'll swap it for some coal.

Sorry, I used my last one today Seriously, I'd still replace the whole board, unless you test each component, theres likely to be something else thats fried. That SS relay had to be over-juiced when the capacitor bit the dust.

110 is 110 the fry is from high amp draw mee thinks cant see the cap sending overjuice back? zener diodes shoulda prevented that... the board is 75 bucks


i would still try to juice the pressor to confirm its not locked up before dropping $$ on a board


but just my 1 cent

(Horrified that I am glued to the refrigerator thread on a Saturday night. I can't wait to see what happens next )

coaledsweat wrote:Oddly enough the part number matches the Mid-South Electronics P/N on the board. That may be a good sign. Perhaps it is a universal piece? I would try to jumper it but can't figure out how, maybe shave the top off? It appears to have 8 solder points at the bottom.
If any of you guys have an Omron G2RL-14-E-CF solid state relay kicking around, that is all I really need. I'll swap it for some coal.

Is that the actual relay part # on the CB? If so, Heres the pin layout. Page down to the bottom of the PDF... Looks like its about $4.00
http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20She ... s/G2RL.pdf

Poconoeagle wrote:110 is 110 the fry is from high amp draw mee thinks cant see the cap sending overjuice back? zener diodes shoulda prevented that... the board is 75 bucks


i would still try to juice the pressor to confirm its not locked up before dropping $$ on a board


but just my 1 cent

I think I did that. When nothing worked after changing the capacitor, I wired an old cord to the capacitor. I heard the compressor bump or clunk when I did. Should it hum or something continuously? How do you know if it is working? Amp draw?

DVC500 at last wrote:

coaledsweat wrote:Oddly enough the part number matches the Mid-South Electronics P/N on the board. That may be a good sign. Perhaps it is a universal piece? I would try to jumper it but can't figure out how, maybe shave the top off? It appears to have 8 solder points at the bottom.
If any of you guys have an Omron G2RL-14-E-CF solid state relay kicking around, that is all I really need. I'll swap it for some coal.

Is that the actual relay part # on the CB? If so, Heres the pin layout. Page down to the bottom of the PDF... Looks like its about $4.00
http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20She ... s/G2RL.pdf

That is it! I don't know about the board, it looks real bad and appears to be a sandwich type construction. $4 relay and with my luck it will be $400 or a new refrigerator.

You'd know if it was running - it'll buzz & vibrate. Did you hold the power to the capacitor continuously, or just for a second? If the connection wasn't solid, the compressor won't restart immediately if you re-apply power. Is it possible that the refrigerant leaked out? If so, the compressor could be toast.

EDIT ... actually I'm thinking automotive ...... the comp has it's own oil sump, in which case refrigerant doesn't matter.

coaledsweat wrote:

Poconoeagle wrote:110 is 110 the fry is from high amp draw mee thinks cant see the cap sending overjuice back? zener diodes shoulda prevented that... the board is 75 bucks


i would still try to juice the pressor to confirm its not locked up before dropping $$ on a board


but just my 1 cent

I think I did that. When nothing worked after changing the capacitor, I wired an old cord to the capacitor. I heard the compressor bump or clunk when I did. Should it hum or something continuously? How do you know if it is working? Amp draw?

it should vibrate your touch as it spins inside and one pipe gets hot the other cold, if it clunks and hums it might be locked and will indeed draw much amps.... realistically a few to 7 amps or so vs 35 amps for lock up .

my last new one is one of those freezer on the bottom and huge fridge on top. always seemed more logical that way and I actually love it! samsung.....best buy....stainless and black... extremely cheap to run too!