Refrigerator Quit

Post by **coaledsweat** » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 10:48 pm

SMITTY wrote:You'd know if it was running - it'll buzz & vibrate. Did you hold the power to the capacitor continuously, or just for a second? If the connection wasn't solid, the compressor won't restart immediately if you re-apply power. Is it possible that the refrigerant leaked out? If so, the compressor could be toast.

I heard a thump or something so I unplugged it. Should I power it up for a minute or two?

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 10:50 pm

yes there is a built in thermal overload that will reset after cooling down..

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 10:52 pm

Poconoeagle wrote: my last new one is one of those freezer on the bottom and huge fridge on top. always seemed more logical that way and I actually love it! samsung.....best buy....stainless and black... extremely cheap to run too!

Samsung freezer-under are nice. Thats what our next one will be.

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 11:03 pm

Back in better times I bought a Maytag 25.1 cu.ft. monster with the bottom freezer. It's so much better being set up that way -- now I can see food I would have forgotten about .........& eat it before it grows fur.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Sun. Nov. 29, 2009 9:07 am

Poconoeagle wrote:i would still try to juice the pressor to confirm its not locked up before dropping $$ on a board

I re powered it this morning, it will click and hum for a second and quit. Then it repeats after a few minutes, the lights dimmed a bit once during it. I'm guessing the compressor is toast. It looks like you just discounted my nightmare by $75. Thanks amigo.

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Sun. Nov. 29, 2009 9:49 am

No problemo señor. De. Nada.

CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Sun. Nov. 29, 2009 10:51 am

Did you try hitting it with a large hammer?

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Sun. Nov. 29, 2009 10:56 am

Wood'nCoal wrote:Did you try hitting it with a large hammer?

yep the FORD hammers work pretty good!!

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Sun. Nov. 29, 2009 4:43 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Poconoeagle wrote:i would still try to juice the pressor to confirm its not locked up before dropping $$ on a board
I re powered it this morning, it will click and hum for a second and quit. Then it repeats after a few minutes, the lights dimmed a bit once during it. I'm guessing the compressor is toast. It looks like you just discounted my nightmare by $75. Thanks amigo.

Wow! Good thing we have an EAGLE-eye on the forum !
I'll have to remember to "Test compressor FIRST"

gaw · Post by **gaw** » Sun. Nov. 29, 2009 9:59 pm

I had a freezer compressor go on a late Saturday night. Bought a new freezer at Lowe’s Sunday morning. I called the local appliance dealer later in the week to see if it would be worth fixing the freezer because it was only a few years old. I had bought it from him and he looked up the record and found that the compressor was under warranty and he could replace it for labor cost only which turned out to be $40. This is just a basic upright freezer and the compressor was warranted for 5 or 10 years, not sure, but I would think that your refrigerator compressor could still be under warranty and it may be worth repairing.

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Sun. Nov. 29, 2009 10:04 pm

for sure IF they would do it right! replace reciever dryer. oriface tube or expansion valve, flush system cause replacement compressor has much shorter life as something caused its faliure also and usually never gets delt with correctly.

on the other hand a repaired unit becomes a sellable unit and relieves some of the price of the new one!

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Mon. Nov. 30, 2009 1:32 am

This is killing me! Is it fixed? Do we have to wait for Monday? How many more innocent Klondike bars will be lost???

Post by **coaledsweat** » Mon. Nov. 30, 2009 8:17 am

This is the 4th repair for this unit, I have had it. The new one will be here Tuesday at noon. I don't fault the appliance as I had a real problem with power supply in this house. Years ago, some water got into the top of the meter box and wicked down through the wiring to the breaker panel. From there, it got into some of the breakers and over time resulted in rust causing some interesting power issues to say the least. It ate a TV before I figured it out, hopefully this is the last casualty of that event.

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Mon. Nov. 30, 2009 9:44 am

Dang! gives ya a chance to clean out the canned food section of the kitchen!! Just curious what brand breaker box is it? a tube of di-electric silicone grease and in and out all the breakers and give em a squirt on the contacts...

the voltage drop disease will kill dove bars heath bars and indeed Klondike bars like a magnifying glass and a ant farm on a sunny day

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Mon. Nov. 30, 2009 1:06 pm

A year after I bought this place, I replaced a nice Federal-Pacific breaker box with the same problem. Surprised I didn't have any electrical issues, other than breakers tripping on anything larger than 200 Watts. The box was a complete pile of rust, indicating it had leaked like this for years!

Just for giggles, do a Google search on Federal-Pacific breakers ...... turns out I'm lucky to still have a house!