Refrigerator Quit

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 5:13 pm

Again. Last time it was the capacitor so I rushed out and got one before the store closed, needless to say that didn't work. The capacitor is not getting any power, any suggestions? It's a Kenmore side by side, about 3-4 years old. Nothing runs, compressor, fans, nothing.


 
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Post by WNY » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 5:37 pm

Did you try another Outlet? Trip a breaker or GFI? Clean the coils out with a vacuum? maybe a reset somewhere?

 
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Post by wlape3 » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 5:42 pm

Well, I'm not an appliance guy but it sounds like the problem is pretty basic since nothing is running. I'm assuming no lights when you open the doors so not even basic power, Another assumption is that you already checked for a main fuse, tripped circuit breaker, tripped ground fault circuit and all that stuff. Did you try plugging it into another circuit just for giggles?

You can also check out this site.

http://fixitnow.com/

There is a lot of good free advice to be had and if you can pass a simple test you can graduate to a higher level and have free access to a bunch of repair manual literature.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 5:58 pm

The outlet has power and the light comes on. The fans and compressor do not run. I put the new capacitor in and when it didn't start, found that it isn't getting power. Looked around online but couldn't find a wiring diagram.

 
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Post by wlape3 » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 6:11 pm

Searching for a wiring diagram on the website I told you about might produce what you are looking for. Also, I'm assuming someone else has had this problem before. Most of my refrigerators have lasted at least 10 years without a problem so 3-4 years old is too young unless it's a defect of some kind or something unique to your home.

 
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Post by tvb » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 7:12 pm

You should let Kenmore know if this has happened more than once.

I bought a top of the line very expensive POS refrigerator three years ago that kept freezing stuff where it should not have. Out of frustration after about the fifth service call, I did an email carpet bomb to the top tier of the manufacturer execs and within two days they were here changing out every single part - they basically took everything out of the shell and replaced it. It was the asst to some VP that called and did the scheduling and follow-up and assured me they would replace the unit if it happened again.

For guidance on how to do it, see http://consumerist.com/2007/05/how-to-launch-an-e ... -bomb.html

 
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Post by Poconoeagle » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 7:16 pm

almost every unit comes with a "sams" schematic and matainance schedule.

it is usually located under neath or behind a shield in the unit!! I know kenmore units indeed do!


 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 7:21 pm

tvb wrote:You should let Kenmore know if this has happened more than once.
Its about 5 years old, about 6 months ago it quit. That was the capacitor, I was here when he changed it. This time it is something else. I doubt it's the compressor as the capacitor has no power. I poked around in the top with the temp controls, but without a drawing it is a little hard to figure out. My Klondike bars are gone now. :mad:

I looked everywhere for the drawing, if its there, I can't find it. Maybe it is on the bottom of it? :roll:

 
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Post by 009to090 » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 7:27 pm

Poconoeagle wrote:almost every unit comes with a "sams" schematic and matainance schedule.

it is usually located under neath or behind a shield in the unit!! I know kenmore units indeed do!
Yeah, thats the good thing about Sears/Kenmore. Schematics ar usually provided inside the back cover. Also, don't forget, Sears posts all their parts breakdowns online, and you can order any part you think you might need. If its still in Warrenty, just call the repair number to schedule a service vist.
Sounds like the main relay, or the Tamp thermostat.

 
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Post by Poconoeagle » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 7:30 pm

then again plugging it into 220v would let the poison smoke out and drive the heathens from within out that melted the sacred ice creme!! :)

those darn gremlins...... :mad:

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 7:58 pm

DVC500 at last wrote: or the Tamp thermostat.
And just where would I find that little gem? I looked where the temp setting knobs were and didn't see what appeared to be one. Would it be close to the fan? I have to go deep for that.
Poconoeagle wrote:then again plugging it into 220v would let the poison smoke out and drive the heathens from within out that melted the sacred ice creme!! :)

those darn gremlins...... :mad:
You are starting to scare me. Don't sacrifice any animals over this, OK?

 
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Post by tvb » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 8:02 pm

Its about 5 years old, about 6 months ago it quit. That was the capacitor, I was here when he changed it. This time it is something else.
The worse thing they can say is F-U.

 
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Post by 009to090 » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 8:05 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
DVC500 at last wrote: or the Tamp thermostat.
And just where would I find that little gem? I looked where the temp setting knobs were and didn't see what appeared to be one. Would it be close to the fan? I have to go deep for that.
Yes, that Temp dial is the Thremostat. Pull up the Parts diagram for this model, on the Sears-Parts Website, and it will show you the complete part. You should be able to pull the leads and test them for contact when it calls for "MORE COLD"
If you feel safe with the contacts, just jump the main leads here on the thermostat to see if the compressor starts.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 8:19 pm

DVC500 at last wrote: Yes, that Temp dial is the Thremostat. Pull up the Parts diagram for this model, on the Sears-Parts Website, and it will show you the complete part. You should be able to pull the leads and test them for contact when it calls for "MORE COLD"
If you feel safe with the contacts, just jump the main leads here on the thermostat to see if the compressor starts.
I rang it with the meter and it showed that the switch was closed. At least the light works.

 
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Post by 009to090 » Sat. Nov. 28, 2009 8:30 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
DVC500 at last wrote: Yes, that Temp dial is the Thremostat. Pull up the Parts diagram for this model, on the Sears-Parts Website, and it will show you the complete part. You should be able to pull the leads and test them for contact when it calls for "MORE COLD"
If you feel safe with the contacts, just jump the main leads here on the thermostat to see if the compressor starts.
I rang it with the meter and it showed that the switch was closed. At least the light works.
Gotta be a relay after the Thermostat then......


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