Refrigerator Quit
- coaledsweat
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Again. Last time it was the capacitor so I rushed out and got one before the store closed, needless to say that didn't work. The capacitor is not getting any power, any suggestions? It's a Kenmore side by side, about 3-4 years old. Nothing runs, compressor, fans, nothing.
- wlape3
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Well, I'm not an appliance guy but it sounds like the problem is pretty basic since nothing is running. I'm assuming no lights when you open the doors so not even basic power, Another assumption is that you already checked for a main fuse, tripped circuit breaker, tripped ground fault circuit and all that stuff. Did you try plugging it into another circuit just for giggles?
You can also check out this site.
http://fixitnow.com/
There is a lot of good free advice to be had and if you can pass a simple test you can graduate to a higher level and have free access to a bunch of repair manual literature.
You can also check out this site.
http://fixitnow.com/
There is a lot of good free advice to be had and if you can pass a simple test you can graduate to a higher level and have free access to a bunch of repair manual literature.
- coaledsweat
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- Coal Size/Type: Pea
The outlet has power and the light comes on. The fans and compressor do not run. I put the new capacitor in and when it didn't start, found that it isn't getting power. Looked around online but couldn't find a wiring diagram.
- wlape3
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- Location: Delanson, NY transitioning to SE Mass
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska 140 Auger
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Searching for a wiring diagram on the website I told you about might produce what you are looking for. Also, I'm assuming someone else has had this problem before. Most of my refrigerators have lasted at least 10 years without a problem so 3-4 years old is too young unless it's a defect of some kind or something unique to your home.
You should let Kenmore know if this has happened more than once.
I bought a top of the line very expensive POS refrigerator three years ago that kept freezing stuff where it should not have. Out of frustration after about the fifth service call, I did an email carpet bomb to the top tier of the manufacturer execs and within two days they were here changing out every single part - they basically took everything out of the shell and replaced it. It was the asst to some VP that called and did the scheduling and follow-up and assured me they would replace the unit if it happened again.
For guidance on how to do it, see http://consumerist.com/2007/05/how-to-launch-an-e ... -bomb.html
I bought a top of the line very expensive POS refrigerator three years ago that kept freezing stuff where it should not have. Out of frustration after about the fifth service call, I did an email carpet bomb to the top tier of the manufacturer execs and within two days they were here changing out every single part - they basically took everything out of the shell and replaced it. It was the asst to some VP that called and did the scheduling and follow-up and assured me they would replace the unit if it happened again.
For guidance on how to do it, see http://consumerist.com/2007/05/how-to-launch-an-e ... -bomb.html
- Poconoeagle
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almost every unit comes with a "sams" schematic and matainance schedule.
it is usually located under neath or behind a shield in the unit!! I know kenmore units indeed do!
it is usually located under neath or behind a shield in the unit!! I know kenmore units indeed do!
- coaledsweat
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- Coal Size/Type: Pea
Its about 5 years old, about 6 months ago it quit. That was the capacitor, I was here when he changed it. This time it is something else. I doubt it's the compressor as the capacitor has no power. I poked around in the top with the temp controls, but without a drawing it is a little hard to figure out. My Klondike bars are gone now.tvb wrote:You should let Kenmore know if this has happened more than once.
I looked everywhere for the drawing, if its there, I can't find it. Maybe it is on the bottom of it?
Yeah, thats the good thing about Sears/Kenmore. Schematics ar usually provided inside the back cover. Also, don't forget, Sears posts all their parts breakdowns online, and you can order any part you think you might need. If its still in Warrenty, just call the repair number to schedule a service vist.Poconoeagle wrote:almost every unit comes with a "sams" schematic and matainance schedule.
it is usually located under neath or behind a shield in the unit!! I know kenmore units indeed do!
Sounds like the main relay, or the Tamp thermostat.
- Poconoeagle
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then again plugging it into 220v would let the poison smoke out and drive the heathens from within out that melted the sacred ice creme!!
those darn gremlins......
those darn gremlins......
- coaledsweat
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- Coal Size/Type: Pea
And just where would I find that little gem? I looked where the temp setting knobs were and didn't see what appeared to be one. Would it be close to the fan? I have to go deep for that.DVC500 at last wrote: or the Tamp thermostat.
You are starting to scare me. Don't sacrifice any animals over this, OK?Poconoeagle wrote:then again plugging it into 220v would let the poison smoke out and drive the heathens from within out that melted the sacred ice creme!!
those darn gremlins......
Yes, that Temp dial is the Thremostat. Pull up the Parts diagram for this model, on the Sears-Parts Website, and it will show you the complete part. You should be able to pull the leads and test them for contact when it calls for "MORE COLD"coaledsweat wrote:And just where would I find that little gem? I looked where the temp setting knobs were and didn't see what appeared to be one. Would it be close to the fan? I have to go deep for that.DVC500 at last wrote: or the Tamp thermostat.
If you feel safe with the contacts, just jump the main leads here on the thermostat to see if the compressor starts.
- coaledsweat
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- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
I rang it with the meter and it showed that the switch was closed. At least the light works.DVC500 at last wrote: Yes, that Temp dial is the Thremostat. Pull up the Parts diagram for this model, on the Sears-Parts Website, and it will show you the complete part. You should be able to pull the leads and test them for contact when it calls for "MORE COLD"
If you feel safe with the contacts, just jump the main leads here on the thermostat to see if the compressor starts.
Gotta be a relay after the Thermostat then......coaledsweat wrote:I rang it with the meter and it showed that the switch was closed. At least the light works.DVC500 at last wrote: Yes, that Temp dial is the Thremostat. Pull up the Parts diagram for this model, on the Sears-Parts Website, and it will show you the complete part. You should be able to pull the leads and test them for contact when it calls for "MORE COLD"
If you feel safe with the contacts, just jump the main leads here on the thermostat to see if the compressor starts.