Moving Hot Air Off Stove

 
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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
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Post by WNY » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 8:24 am

No problem! sounds like you got it working pretty good.!! :)

I added a custom heat jacket (almost sealing the entire stove) with a separate 400 CFM blower just for the jacket with a bonnet switch that really helps move the air upstairs (and washing the heat off the stove) along with with the built in blowers. it maintains pretty good temps in the few rooms above the stove.

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 5:58 pm

Matt E wrote:Update 12-03-09 Here are the steps I have taken:
I blocked off most of the duct where the oil furnace draws the cold air in from. This helped the "suction" if you will to draw the hot air off of the stove, but still was not enough.

I added one of the two blower motors on the bottom back of the stove. The installation instructions say not to install the blower motors with the type of install I had. These are the ones that plug into "yellow".

The one motor brought the temp down quite a bit, but still not enough.

I added the second motor to the bottom back and that brought the temp down to the "safe" zone.

I let it run a while and both burrners were going good and it kept the temp down to around 500*
First off, I am glad you are getting a handle on it.
I do have a question though. Why did you block off most of the duct for the oil furnace and not all of it?
I guess I have two questions. How can two 265cfm blowers put more air through the stove jacket than your furnace blower? Is it set to run at a low speed?
If the only place your furnace blower can get air is from your stove jacket I can't imagine it pulling less than 530cfm.
Anyway, I am glad you got the temp down some but something just doesn't seem to add up.

 
Matthaus
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Post by Matthaus » Sat. Dec. 05, 2009 11:20 am

gambler wrote:snip.. How can two 265cfm blowers put more air through the stove jacket than your furnace blower? ..snip
Since the hot air jacket is open on the bottom the furnace is pulling air through the openings and along side of the stove (if the fans were not installed it would pull air through this location as well), then the two 265 cfm blowers are adding room air under a slight increased pressure to the mix (into the stove top plenum created by the hot air jacket) so ultimately there is a series/parallel air flow which results in more air being pulled off the stove and therefore lower stove temps. :)

 
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jockel
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Post by jockel » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 8:18 pm

I have a Pocono with the top vent. I am not using a jacket but I do have the stove piped into the furnace cold air return. I am using the hot air furnace fan control to keep the furnace blower running.

Should I remove the blowers on the stove and just open that up for the furnace blower exclusively? I could add a limit switch to the furnace blower based on the air temp at the top of the stove.


 
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Post by Matthaus » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 12:21 am

It looks like you have a 12" or 14" duct top on your stove (from your avatar pic). If that is the case I would keep the fans installed and use the coaltrol to control them. SInce the furnace fan is running all the time it will take any heat off the stove when the fans are not runnning. When the Tstat calls for heat the fans will help push the extra heat off the stove into the furnace blower through your cold air return.

I'm not 100% sure I understand your setup but I think the above is the best way to go based on what I understand. Let me know if I'm missing anything. ;)

 
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jockel
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Post by jockel » Tue. Dec. 08, 2009 7:17 pm

Hello - It is a twelve inch opening on the top of the stove. As you can see from the pictures I uploaded I have created plenum that covers the cold air return on the oil fired hot air furnace. The oil furnace is fully functional but we have been able to keep the house warm enough with just the blower pulling the heat through the stove. The basement stays a consistent five to six degrees warmer than the rest of the house. So to keep the upstairs, living room, kitchen, bedrooms warm enough the control for the stove has to be set to about 76 degrees for day time and 62 for night. We would love to get more heat upstairs and less in the basement.

The front of the stove is completely blocked using fire proof furnace packing material so what the hot air blower pulls through the stove is all the blower can get. I am assuming the higher level of heat in the basement is due to the radiant heat from the stove walls. I am assuming if I bought the jacket and installed it the radiant heat would mostly end up going to the blower.

So until I can afford a jacket should I remove the stove blowers and just let the furnace blower do all the work?
Could I use the Control for the stove to operate the limit switch for the furnace blower?
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crazysteamer
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Post by crazysteamer » Tue. Dec. 08, 2009 8:33 pm

For what it is worth, I just installed a furnace and did similar, but not the same:

When I dump air into the suction of my propane furnace from the coal unit, I have an automatic DAMPER installed to cut OFF any other input air, otherwise many of the problems suggested by others really occurs. Coal unit runs, DAMPER closes automatically. I have another damper to close off the COAL unit when it is not running, thereby ensuring that the original system returns to normal when not being 'coaled'.

If you install DUCT BOOSTERS, you need to look VERY CAREFULLY about their capacity. If their capacity is less than the main blower of the unit, they can be more of a hindrence than a help.

BOOSTERS (in the conventional HVAC sense) are intended to be way downstream of the source and to be used only to boost flow in certain areas, not necessarily to boost the ENTIRE flow through a system.

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