Need More Heat!!

kzx11 · Post by **kzx11** » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 2:10 pm

Stoker 100% Yes Back and fourth Yes

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 3:20 pm

Ah, Okay then.... extending the ARM (Threaded rod) should theoretically increase the feed rate. see if you can loosen the nuts, and move the arm farther to the end, so no threads are showing, then Should increase the feed rate.

uhley · Post by **uhley** » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 6:25 pm

There seems to be something missing in this equation. If you disconnected the timer and your blower and feed rate are running @ 100%, shouldn't you be continuously feeding coal from the hopper? Which at some point should be pushing hot coals off the edge of your burner. Correct me if I'm wrong. How do you control the feed rate now? My stove's feed rate is run by a timer that turns the stoker feed on every x amount of minutes.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 6:31 pm

That was my question too?

kzx11 · Post by **kzx11** » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 7:29 pm

If you disconnected the timer and your blower and feed rate are running @ 100%, shouldn't you be continuously feeding coal from the hopper? Yes I am Which at some point should be pushing hot coals off the edge of your burner. Thats what I thought too,But it doesnt. Correct me if I'm wrong. How do you control the feed rate now? I hooked up a reastat from my alaska and found I could turn it all the way up and still only get the burn you see in the Pic. above.

uhley · Post by **uhley** » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 9:07 pm

Okay so you are back using the Alaskan Controller.

First question. When you increase the rheostat on the control, do you see the paddle take less time to turn than it does when the rheostat is turned down?

Second question. Is it possible that you wired it up wrong?

Two other possiblities come to mind. On is that the paddle is slipping or binding on the shaft, that comes through the bottom of the hopper, not allowing the shaft to work properly or it is slipping on the adjustment arm.

Looking at the picture showing the paddle in the bottom of the hopper, is it possible that the paddle is turned around? Can you rotate the paddle 180 degrees to see if that helps.

Good Luck
Mike

jpen1 · Post by **jpen1** » Fri. Dec. 04, 2009 9:40 pm

This isn't a new paddle feed stove (e-z fire), this is a carpet fed stove. I think it is definitely burning to high on the grate which mean the strong back gasket on the top edge of the grate is either not there or misaligned. Pop that grate off and check the gasket , replace it or use abead of furnace cement to seal it back down. It's been a while but I think there is some kind of cam in there to actuate the carpet it could be worn out.

kzx11 · Post by **kzx11** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2009 10:22 am

uhley wrote:Okay so you are back using the Alaskan Controller. No wired direct

First question. When you increase the rheostat on the control, do you see the paddle take less time to turn than it does when the rheostat is turned down? Yes But it still did not push fast enough

Second question. Is it possible that you wired it up wrong? Mabe But I don't think so

Two other possiblities come to mind. On is that the paddle is slipping or binding on the shaft, that comes through the bottom of the hopper, not allowing the shaft to work properly or it is slipping on the adjustment arm. All is ok here

Looking at the picture showing the paddle in the bottom of the hopper, is it possible that the paddle is turned around? Could be now that is a good ? Can you rotate the paddle 180 degrees to see if that helps. I'll have to check and see I wonder if any other Mfg. use this set up and how they have theirs?

Thanks Jim

Good Luck
Mike

LsFarm · Post by **LsFarm** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2009 12:40 pm

In your photo, the coal does not look like it is fully burnt. The coal pieces also look rather large for rice. They look like buckwheat size to me.. But that is not the issue. Fully burned rice coal usually looks like oatmeal or granola at the end of the grate and in the ashpan. This coal looks like it has burnt only on the surface, and then it stops burning as it is pushed to the end of the grate. To me, this means lack of combustion air.

I think you need to check under the grate for fines again, and push a wire through all the holes in the grate. Open up the flapper on the combustion fan. This fire needs more air farther down the grate. If you had a load of coal with lots of fines, it could have clogged the grates with just a hopper-load or two.

Now, if the 'strong back' gasket is missing, and a majority of the combustion air is leaking out of the joint between the grate and the mechanism, then you will have too little air for the end of the grate.

So, I think you need to shut it down, or at least scrape the partially burnt coal off the bottom of the grate, and wearing welder's gloves use a wire to open up the air holes. [ I'd just shut it down, check the gasket, the holes and vacuum out the fines below the grate.].. Do it all, then you know it is clean, has air, and the gasket is sealing.

Then address the feed issue if there is one..

To me, the coal just doesn't look like it's burnt all the way to ash. When I burned buck size in my LL stoves, it still burnt to a powdery-granola ash. Not at all what this looks like.

Greg L

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Flyer5 · Post by **Flyer5** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2009 5:04 pm

I agree with the other posts , Shut the stove down let it cool . Remove the grate clean the fly ash under it clean the holes usually it is a 1/8" hole . The gasket that seals between the feeder and grate appears to be missing judging by how far back it is burning . I would use the recommended strong back gasket because furnace cement will crack and fall out because of the gap between the feeder and grate . If it is a carpet feed system the carpet is probably also burned away at this point and should be replaced as well. Oh yea are you running a chimney or powerventer ? Dave

StanT · Post by **StanT** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 5:53 pm

all alaska, They will help.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**Stan

fix it · Post by **fix it** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 8:40 pm

Is there a plate that slowly moves up and down, controlled by the feeder, that lets the coal drop down and move forward across the fins? If so there might be a rock or something jamming the plate. This happened to me. I used a metal rod to poke around under the plate and I knocked a large piece of buck loose. I also pulled some coal down and out onto the fins and everything began to work normally. As was said previously, your coal should be running off the fins. Maybe your feeder is broke. Good luck.

stoker · Post by **stoker** » Fri. Dec. 11, 2009 1:29 pm

My stoker blower has a circular piece of metal that adjusts the amount of air that blows thru the grates.I can sdjust my blower more to the 3/4 closed position,witch causes a longer burn on the tray.Also allows me to turn down the feeder screw.I burn Buck in mine and also agree with the other posters that by your pics it looks like you are burning Buck.Good luck

kzx11 · Post by **kzx11** » Wed. Dec. 16, 2009 10:05 am

First off Thanks For all The Help<>WE HAVE HEAT!!!!

The tray under the grate had a couple of " of fines in it. I run a drill thru all the air holes, The tray has a strap across the bottom so you can remove the fines I did or so I thought!! WTF Still No air!! So I pulled the blower off and guess what a bunch of fines clear in the back!! Short story<> Make sure it is clean!!!Not just guess or think it is SEE THAT it IS. Now Feeder adjustment There in none Nada<> Nothing I tried everything. On the left it rotates 360% on the right it just goes back an fourth. I had to make a longer plate with more holes on the left and weld to what was there. Now we GOT COAL!! I guess you call it a throat strap, It has no adjustment and seems to be wore and is letting the coal get to 3"<>4" thick coming down the grate. I guess I need to weld a new strap across the grate.

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Wed. Dec. 16, 2009 2:41 pm

Glad to hear you figured it out

Now you'll stay warm this winter.