Help a New User Out

hadrosaur · Post by **hadrosaur** » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 9:27 pm

So first of all, I am not even sure what kind of stove I have. It was in my house when I bought it in june. I have been trying to get help for awhile now and no one in my area is any help.

I think it is an OLD leisure line pocono can anyone verify this for me or correct me if I am wrong?

I can not keep it burning and need some new parts too. It will burn out in about half an hour without fussing, it only has a small weight on a threaded rod in conjunction with a motor speed rheostat to control the coal feed and I have been fussing with it for about 10 hours now going back and forth with it but it still just burns up the tray and goes out (thanks for the cowboy charcoal tip everyone).

I replaced the gasket at the back of the stove to no effect.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

jeromemsn · Post by **jeromemsn** » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 9:37 pm

First off, did you check the exhaust pipe and make sure it's clear.

Did you clean under the grate where the coal burns.

Before you loaded the hopper with coal did you check the grate and make sure it was smooth and flat, no warping.

Before you did anything did you check the fans and make sure they were clean and oiled.

Did you check the stoker to make sure it would move forward and back and push the coal.

looks like a Alaska 140 to me but man have I been wrong before, lol.

Don't worry help is on it's way here just stay tuned

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 9:46 pm

Looks like its laying on its side. Shouldn't it be standing up? And the baro is mounted Vertically, instead of horizontally?
Oh, wait, are the Pics not oriented correctly?

Yep, I'd take all the coal out, strip it down, and clean it out. Oil all motors, check all moving parts, get a manual if you can (Can usually be downloaded from the dealors website or someone on this site. Get the chimney and flue inspected.
Lots to do before you begin trying to lite - 'er - up.

hadrosaur · Post by **hadrosaur** » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 9:49 pm

When I first got the house the stove had been cleaned and mothballed
I swept the chimney, the stove pipe is all good all the holes in the burner grate are cleared,
it does have a crack in the grate I sealed the crack with some gasket cement when I was replacing the gasket at the back of the stove.
all fans and motors work fine and the thing that shuffles the coal seems to be working fine it is a little corroded but I doubt it that is impeding it

dont think its an alaska 140 but thanks

GeorgiePorgie · Post by **GeorgiePorgie** » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 10:22 pm

Email me your number, I'll walk you through the whole process, I remember having some nightmare when I had my first one too !
[email protected]

jeromemsn · Post by **jeromemsn** » Sun. Dec. 06, 2009 11:06 pm

Gasket cement will not fix a cracked grate. Stove cement might depending on where it's located.
Pictures of the crack, grate and stoker mechanism would all help also.

Matthaus · Post by **Matthaus** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 12:16 am

You have an old Alaska Kodiak Stoker II, it has the triburner stoker unit and should last for years to come.

I'll move this thread to the main stoker forum when I get a chance so you can get more answers to the questions.

The trheaded rod in the back controls the amount of stroke that the feeder carpet moves, adjust this so that thereis around 5/8" play inbetween the eylet and the red tab that is threaded on the rod. If you have no such tab then I can see why it is going out, you will need to at lease install a nut in behind the feeder carpet so it moves back and forth.

The coal is fed by the movement of the carpet, so check and make sure it is moving when the stoker motor runs. Also I would recomend runningt the stoker motor directly from the wall and adjusting the feeder carpet stroke to get the desired amount of fire. This way the combustion fan which is also turned by the same motor will suplly enough air, if the stoker motor turns too slow there will be an excessive amount of unburned coal due to not enough air.

Hope this helps.

Rick 386 · Post by **Rick 386** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 9:11 am

Matthaus wrote:You have an old Alaska Kodiak Stoker II, it has the triburner stoker unit and should last for years to come.

Exactly as Matthaus said. I have that exact same model stove in my home garage heating it right now. This stove will put out the heat.

hadrosaur you never listed your location. If you are close to me I could come and help you out. Where are you located ????

Rick

stokerstove · Post by **stokerstove** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 9:26 am

Your stove looks alot like my Alaska Kodiak I. There should be a plate on the bottom right rear of the stove while facing the back of the stove with the model #, etc.

All the suggestions offered here are good ones. Adding to the list, does your chimney have a good draft?

Are you sure it's the proper type of coal - rice is what you need.

As suggested bypass the rheostats and plug the motors right into an outlet - at least til you get it burning. Turning the red tab counterclockwise looking from the back of the stove will get you more feed - just don't turn it more than 1 turn at a time to give the stove time to adjust.

When you decide what parts you need your best bet is to get them directly from Alaska in Bloomsburg, PA, assuming the stove is an Alaska.

Whiteash · Post by **Whiteash** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 1:23 pm

It is a Alaskan Stoker II. Do what they have told you in the other posts. I've had mine for 25 plus years and it's still going strong. Do like they told you CLEAN IT and oil the motors. It should last a long time.
Herb

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 1:55 pm

if it just burning up the tray, sounds like it's not feeding properly or adjusted properly for more feed.
If the combustion blower (under the grate) is working and the feed mechanism is feeding properly, maybe you have turn up the rheostat to get mroe feed into the grates.

hadrosaur · Post by **hadrosaur** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 5:26 pm

Wow thanks everyone.
I have it off for the night to clean it out again and look it over.
I had the rheostat on full, the tab is no longer red however it is present when you say 5/8'' of play what exactly do you mean Matthaus? the carpet is moving but adjusting the little weighted red tab nut that is screwed on the rod does not seem to do much. I have had it back very close to the unit and brought it forward slowly to reduce the length of the draw but since when it hits either the end cap or the weighted nut it stops for the full period before retracting it dosent seem to adjust properly.
Right now there is about 2" between the red weight and a cap nut that limits the draw back into the machine. I will run a cord directly to the motors tonight to simplify things but I have been running it on high so far

there is defiantly no model number or anything else and from what I have seen online the new models are shaped completly differently but the controls look rite. At least now I know what kind of stove I have and maybe I can make some progress.

I am located in Coaldale, Pa. if there is anyone nearby with any experience diagnosing these things

Rick 386 · Post by **Rick 386** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 7:41 pm

hadrosaur wrote:Wow thanks everyone.
I have it off for the night to clean it out again and look it over.
I had the rheostat on full, the tab is no longer red however it is present when you say 5/8'' of play what exactly do you mean Matthaus? the carpet is moving but adjusting the little weighted red tab nut that is screwed on the rod does not seem to do much. I have had it back very close to the unit and brought it forward slowly to reduce the length of the draw but since when it hits either the end cap or the weighted nut it stops for the full period before retracting it dosent seem to adjust properly.
Right now there is about 2" between the red weight and a cap nut that limits the draw back into the machine. I will run a cord directly to the motors tonight to simplify things but I have been running it on high so far

Hadrosaur,

Moving that weighted little red cam lobe is what changes the carpet travel. Remember as the carpet is being pushed and pulled there will be some slack time. That slack time (5/8") is the difference between the red cam lobe and the end cap nut. Watch the carpet travel and you can see it in action. Turning the red cam lobe away from the stove and closer to the end cap nut will push the carpet farther back. When that happens it gathers more coal on the return stroke.

On my Alaska II, from idle to full burn is only 4-5 full thread turns on the red tab. It doesn't take a lot to change the amount of coal being dragged on the carpet.

You should have that rheostat on full blast. That will give you the max amount of combustion air. Heat is increased by the amount of coal that you put on the grate.

I do not know what you meant by the tab no longer being red. If you were referring to the bent end of the carpet plate, that plate was waaaayyy too hot.

Rick

hadrosaur · Post by **hadrosaur** » Tue. Dec. 08, 2009 8:52 am

Thanks to everyone who has helped me out, I have it going pretty well now. The problem was that the carpet was getting cocked sideways and only pushing about half as far as I thought it was. the motor that turns the crank on the rod seems about shot and I think it has a dead spot on it as well. So now I have it back off until I can contact Alaska stoves and get some parts

lincolnmania · Post by **lincolnmania** » Wed. Dec. 09, 2009 4:03 am

yes it sounds like the gear reduction side of the motor broke.......happened to me a few years ago
those motors are not cheap around 150 dollars last time I checked.......you might consider replacing the stoker motor with a 1 rpm dayton gear motor and adding a seperate combustion fan.....both motors cost me around 100 dollars shipped last year around this time.....i also added a coal trol to my stove when I did the upgrade

Help a New User Out

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