It would seem to me that trying to compare "my coal usage" to "your coal usage" is like comparing apples to oranges. Too many variables to take into consideration. I've been comparing notes with a coworker who has the same brand/model stove and my usage rate is about twice his. But when I consider that I am heating 100% with coal (don't want to use the electric heat if I can help it), and he only supplements with coal (using propane to heat the other part of his house) plus the fact that he is CHEAP. That explains alot of it. Also, even though we live maybe 10 miles from each other, I live on a hilltop and had about 6" of snow this week, he lives in the valley and only had rain... You get the idea.
If I could add my 2 cents worth on the insulation ideas. I agree that if your stove is in the cellar (like mine is), you will loose alot of heat to the part of the foundation that is above grade and exposed. I am in the process of upgrading my insulation, since my house is circa 1962. My cellar has no insulation but I plan to spray foam the walls with 2"-3" after I stud them out. I have 3" of fiberglass in the upstairs walls, my best guess is it is about R-9 (at best). I don't want to scab out the walls inside or outside, so I am taking out the fiberglass from the outside, leaving the foil backer in place, and spraying the cavity full with polyurethane foam (there are many brands out there, I am using Foam-It Green from http://www.guardianenergytech.com/
). I have only done one wall so far, but I am pleased with the results and can't wait to do the rest of the house next summer.
It was my first experience with this product and I made a mess, but experience is a great teacher.
This product has an R value of 7/inch. This should give me R-21 to R-23. Plus it seals air leaks and is a moisture barrier too.
Behind the foam is a layer of 6 mil plastic and drywall. The plastic is to prevent the foam from sticking to the drywall should I ever want to remove it.