Stove has been running fine for several weeks. Today, its gone crazy. Here's what I've done that might be relevant.
1) Found /Sealed some basement air leaks
2)Running a little hotter than usual to see if its ok. 600* measured by the magnetic thermo on top of unit. Usually 500* (now its down around 400*)
3) That snowstorm is right on top of us. Barometer reads 29.72. Virtually no wind.
Stove wont 'go'. Draft fluctuates a little, never over .04. After I do a little dance it comes back from 0. Then eventually goes back to 0. Cant keep it up. I thought about clinkers, but raking out the grates did nothing. Have the basement door open a bit; maybe a little better, still not where it should be. With baro. closed, I used to get .09 on the manometer. Could I have a bird in the pipe? Or is the storm alone capable of this?
Help - Surdiac Is Trying to Kill Me.
- Freddy
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- Joined: Fri. Apr. 11, 2008 2:54 pm
- Location: Orrington, Maine
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
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When was the last time you checked the stove pipe for being plugged with ash? Or, some stoves have shelves that catch fly ash & it can build up and block air flow. I trust you have a CO detector or two? If no CO detector, shut it down until you get one. I have a standing offer if anyone can not truly afford one, I will buy one and ship it to you. PM me if needed.
Running that hot you should have built up plenty of draft. Do you have an external stove pipe getting cooled by snow landing on it?
Or the high temps might have caused a build-up of ash in the heat exchanger passages to shift and block the exit. At first there would still be plenty of draft at the chimney, but it wouldn't be getting to the fire. As the fire died down the draft would go away.
When you wrote "raking out the grates did nothing" do you mean that you cleared them off and started with fresh coal? If you have a glowing mass of coals they can be mostly burnt out but still glowing from their prior burning or the burning of the coals around them. If you seperate a few coals and they fade right out they they were hot but not still burning. Try raking out a spot where the fire is going out and get some fresh coal in. If it gets going rake out another spot. I usually split the bed into thirds when doing this. If you rake out too much at one time the glowing embers can cool and go out.
Bruce
Or the high temps might have caused a build-up of ash in the heat exchanger passages to shift and block the exit. At first there would still be plenty of draft at the chimney, but it wouldn't be getting to the fire. As the fire died down the draft would go away.
When you wrote "raking out the grates did nothing" do you mean that you cleared them off and started with fresh coal? If you have a glowing mass of coals they can be mostly burnt out but still glowing from their prior burning or the burning of the coals around them. If you seperate a few coals and they fade right out they they were hot but not still burning. Try raking out a spot where the fire is going out and get some fresh coal in. If it gets going rake out another spot. I usually split the bed into thirds when doing this. If you rake out too much at one time the glowing embers can cool and go out.
Bruce
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Sorry, always forget to subscribe.
I think it may be a function of sealing up all the air leaks in the basement. As soon as I open the big door, it pops right up to .o4 again. I'll try doing some more raking, Bruce, but after several hours, I cant see how a clinker could still be glowing. It seems to be a little better now with a window open, but it wants to run hot. Cant get it to idle in the 475* range it used to like. Also cant rule out the big storm as a factor.
Oh, yes, I do have a CO detector down there. So far, my nose has been more sensitive.
I think it may be a function of sealing up all the air leaks in the basement. As soon as I open the big door, it pops right up to .o4 again. I'll try doing some more raking, Bruce, but after several hours, I cant see how a clinker could still be glowing. It seems to be a little better now with a window open, but it wants to run hot. Cant get it to idle in the 475* range it used to like. Also cant rule out the big storm as a factor.
Oh, yes, I do have a CO detector down there. So far, my nose has been more sensitive.
- wlape3
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- Location: Delanson, NY transitioning to SE Mass
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- Other Heating: Propane
Check the air flow valve in the back of the unit. Mine would get stuck open from time to time with a clinker. Also check the front door, ash door, and shaker slots. If any of these were not completely closed my stove would run very hot. Cleaning out the heat exchangers is easy. Just use a shop vac and stick the hose inside with the cover off. On mine you could do both at once. Wait till the stove is cool of course.Wallknight wrote:Sorry, always forget to subscribe.
I think it may be a function of sealing up all the air leaks in the basement. As soon as I open the big door, it pops right up to .o4 again. I'll try doing some more raking, Bruce, but after several hours, I cant see how a clinker could still be glowing. It seems to be a little better now with a window open, but it wants to run hot. Cant get it to idle in the 475* range it used to like. Also cant rule out the big storm as a factor.
Oh, yes, I do have a CO detector down there. So far, my nose has been more sensitive.
If you have a partial vent block you can probably also vacuum it out by removing the baro and stuffing the hose up into the vent. You can get extra long vacuum hoses from sears.
You might also have some blockage near the exit of your vent. You shouldn't have to open the window to improve draft unless your house is exceptionally tight. Mine used to draft through the bilco doors in the basement.