Don't Burn Wet Coal
I learned a lesson the hard way. My coal is really dry so I have been watering it down when filling the hopper to reduce the dust. Today I smelled sulfur so I went down to check it out and while there was 200 pounds of coal in the hopper I could see the auger in the bottom of the barrel. The coal stuck to the sides and made a huge funnel. So I just pushed it down, added another couple hundred pounds and went away. Fast forward and we're freezing a few hours later. The wet coal made a pocket around the auger in the bottom of the bin so it wouldn't feed and the fire went out. I had to shovel all the coal out of the hopper because I thought the auger had broken, come to find out it wasn't broke just packed with wet coal. I never had a problem using dry to slightly damp coal but too wet is definitely bad.
BTW I got to thinking about things like holiday breakdowns (because things only break at the worst possible time) if the auger ever breaks can it just be pulled out and welded and put back into service?
BTW I got to thinking about things like holiday breakdowns (because things only break at the worst possible time) if the auger ever breaks can it just be pulled out and welded and put back into service?
- Richard S.
- Mayor
- Posts: 15123
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
- Location: NEPA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
- Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite
If the coal is really clean that shouldn't happen. You have two reasons why that will happen. The water when combined with the coal produces a liquid that is sticky when dry, something like a glue. The other problem is with the fines, as the coal keeps going down the dirt will gravitate to the sides and bottom and it will collect into the spaces between the coal. Over time you'll get a build up of it and it can develop a situation where you can have very steep angles. Think of sand if you dig into the side of it, you can have almost a vertical side when you pull the shovel out.
- whistlenut
- Member
- Posts: 3548
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 17, 2007 6:29 pm
- Location: Central NH, Concord area
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA130's,260's, AHS130&260's,EFM900,GJ & V-Wert
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska, Keystoker-2,Leisure Line
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska, Gibraltar, Keystone,Vc Vigilant 2
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
- Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
- Other Heating: Oil HWBB
So much for the watering idea, huh? You can use a hand spray can full of light oil if you have to, but watch out for getting too much on the coal. I know first hand about the auger issues that will 'cake', and believe me, you were lucky too.
I can't say enough about having spares on hand. Motor, auger, shear pins, coupling for the blower, a spare circ or zone valve head, some control parts, wire, wire nuts...bolts.....I live out in the country, and there aren't any hardware stores close to me.and as excellent as Grainger and McMaster are, on Sat at midnight when it's 12 below and the wind is blowing 25 mph, that feeling of "I'm screwed", leaves you feeling ill.......................unless PPPPPPP! Or if you can't play 'think quick', then better go back to the porch with the little yappie dawgs, and let the big dawgs do their thing..
I can't say enough about having spares on hand. Motor, auger, shear pins, coupling for the blower, a spare circ or zone valve head, some control parts, wire, wire nuts...bolts.....I live out in the country, and there aren't any hardware stores close to me.and as excellent as Grainger and McMaster are, on Sat at midnight when it's 12 below and the wind is blowing 25 mph, that feeling of "I'm screwed", leaves you feeling ill.......................unless PPPPPPP! Or if you can't play 'think quick', then better go back to the porch with the little yappie dawgs, and let the big dawgs do their thing..
- stoker-man
- Verified Business Rep.
- Posts: 2071
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 19, 2007 9:33 pm
- Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
- Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove
I think the worm shaft would be better welded with a TIG than with a stick. It's too easy to create a beautiful stick or MIG surface weld with no penetration at all. After all that, you have the issue of crystallizing the steel and having a weak spot. Better to have a spare bin worm on hand.
I've been having the same problems with wet coal this year. It's happened 3 times so far and it's getting annoying. I like to keep a full hopper, but I found that the more weight in the hopper the easier it is for the void to form. I stir the coal in the morning and at night before going to bed and when I add a bag, I keep it piled up at the rear of the hopper which gives it some time to dry out before its burned.
Last year the coal was wet too, but I never had this problem. The coal from last year was slightly larger and if memory serves, had less fines in it. This years batch of rice is smaller and appears to have more fines in it, but its burning a helluva lot hotter too - so im happy about that.
I have a neato idea to solve my void forming problem, I just need to find some time to get it going.
Last year the coal was wet too, but I never had this problem. The coal from last year was slightly larger and if memory serves, had less fines in it. This years batch of rice is smaller and appears to have more fines in it, but its burning a helluva lot hotter too - so im happy about that.
I have a neato idea to solve my void forming problem, I just need to find some time to get it going.
I agree it would be better to TIG it. Also if you can have a spare that would be the best thing to do. I was thinking in case of Sunday, nothing being open to get parts. Welding can be a quick fix that should last till a new one can be installed.stoker-man wrote:I think the worm shaft would be better welded with a TIG than with a stick. It's too easy to create a beautiful stick or MIG surface weld with no penetration at all. After all that, you have the issue of crystallizing the steel and having a weak spot. Better to have a spare bin worm on hand.
- Pa Dealer
- Member
- Posts: 242
- Joined: Fri. Aug. 15, 2008 10:12 am
- Location: NEPA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 DF
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Keystoker
Have stick welded many worms and never had a problem, just got to do it rite,chamfer,correct heat and correct ss rod.I wouild tig it but my tank is always MT.
ry
ry
Are the augers cast iron?? From pics they looked like they may be. If so they're going to be quite a bit tricker to weld. Need to pre heat with torch and use a cast iron electrode (high nickel content). Then hit again with torch and let cool SLOWLY or you'll develop cracks in the weld. If mild steel weld away with mig, tig or stick
- stoker-man
- Verified Business Rep.
- Posts: 2071
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 19, 2007 9:33 pm
- Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
- Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove
No, they're stainless. I think 410.
-
- Member
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 09, 2008 8:44 pm
As I posted earlier, not all mechanism operate well with wet coal, Stoker stoves using a slider/carpet movement don't seem to have any problem, pushers and augers are different story !
- Richard S.
- Mayor
- Posts: 15123
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
- Location: NEPA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
- Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite
Just to add to what I posted above if you have a lot flat stuff (bone) that can exacerbate the problem too.
Never had this problem in almost 30 years.GeorgiePorgie wrote:augers are different story !