Hey everyone -
I am going to be replacing the gasket on my loading door for the first time was curious on the best way to do this. Is it best to remove the door and install the gasket and let let it set or leave the door on install the gasket, close the door and have it set with the door closed
thanks
Best Way to Replace Gasket on Stratford Loading Door?
leave door on shut stove down , remove old gasket have new gasket on hand , use one with gasket cement in squeeze tube not bottle, use small wire brush and wet paper towel to keep dust down ,wire brush old cement out of channel, wipe with paper towel to remove loose stuff, start installing gasket. wear rubber gloves start on bottom in center , gasket can really be streched ,dont strech it. push gasket into channel and back toward where you started reapet until you get all around door now trim excess gasket, remove gasket and put cement in channel reinstall gasket place open sheet/s of newspaper on inside of door covering gasket close door with paper in it leave for 1 hour remove paper start fire good luck
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The only thing I'd add to what Shawnin said is, it's easier to work on the door if you take it off the stove, as long as you have shut down the stove and let it cool off. That may depend on whether your doors come off very easily or not -- mine just lift off.
Also like he said, be careful not to stretch the gasket, also try not to twist it, because either one can thin it out and leave a low spot so that spot won't seal up quite right against the stove body. I think the purpose of the newspaper or waxed paper or whatever is, in case some gasket cement gets where it doesn't belong, you don't want the gasket to adhere to the stove body.
Also like he said, be careful not to stretch the gasket, also try not to twist it, because either one can thin it out and leave a low spot so that spot won't seal up quite right against the stove body. I think the purpose of the newspaper or waxed paper or whatever is, in case some gasket cement gets where it doesn't belong, you don't want the gasket to adhere to the stove body.
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Use 'Water Glass' for gasket cement...
Very nice to use...
**Broken Link(s) Removed**
Very nice to use...
**Broken Link(s) Removed**
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I have done more than few of gasket replacement on doors, hopper feed door, and glass.
And here is what I have discovered over the last three years: If you can use the gasket rope, and place it without cement, it works much better, I try to use the cement as little as possible, if you clean the channel where a gasket rope have to be seated, I have discovered so far, that I don't really need cement.
Without the cement being there and drying, the rope remains flexible for longer periods of time , and if it 's done correctly, the difference is not much as far as the seal !
And here is what I have discovered over the last three years: If you can use the gasket rope, and place it without cement, it works much better, I try to use the cement as little as possible, if you clean the channel where a gasket rope have to be seated, I have discovered so far, that I don't really need cement.
Without the cement being there and drying, the rope remains flexible for longer periods of time , and if it 's done correctly, the difference is not much as far as the seal !
- grizzly2
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I have used both the black cement and the waterglass as gasket adhesives. I much prefer the waterglass. Waterglass is much neater to install the gasket with, and leaves virtually nothing to clean out when you replace the gasket again some day.
i'll have to try waterglass, next time , my door just lifts off too, I wont remove my door until I have spare glass on hand!Things have a way of happening(i would cut a steel plate in a jam, alot of people don't have the material on hand) just passing on what I learned here, I didnt know anything about coal other than it is black 13 months ago, i'm proud to say I installed my whole stove , hearth(made with pavers) chimney (core drill 8" hole thru concrete basement wall) my house is 70 basement is 80, I havent bought oil since last feb 100 gl, I still have 1/3 tank left, and most importantly my wife and my children are still alive and I didnt burn the house down! ran my stove without baro last year , installed one for this season need to get a baro to set right makes a huge difference, thank you all nepa for your exp. and knowledge happy holiday! shawn
i forgot mention I've nevr paid for coal except for my first week when I paid approx 8 -9 do a bg ( I obtain thru various come get this stuff off my property sources) I have approx 4+ tons on hand( next I need to adress ash removal system) and heat distribution