I'm not a boiler tech. but I don't think you need to be concerned with how long the circ's. run as the coal boiler is putting out heat 24/7. If they run a long time without dropping the water temp too much, that should be considered meeting the goal. I would say congrats is in order. - JeffKTM250 wrote:My only concern is it seems like the zones run longer
KTM250 wrote:Hello all, I am about at my wits end with this Harmon SF 260 boiler. It has been a nightmare from day one from installing the chimney to getting it plumbed in. Now I am struggling to get long burn times to keeping the water up to temp. I am also trying to heat my domestic hot water (with an external hydo stor tank) and that looks like it is not going to work well at all. I have tried all kinds of different settings from draft , to air flow controls on the ash pan door and shaking the bed differently. Not sure what is going on here but all I can say is that hand fired coal stoves suck. I have been using a stoker for about 8 years and never had problems. I was hoping that maybe there are some SF 260, 160 or 360 owners out there that may be able to help me. I do know that if I would have started burning coal with this unit I would have stopped a long time ago.
efo141 wrote:Fill it so the coal just about falls out the loading door and higher towards the back of the stove. A friend of mine has the same boiler. He also had to run more than .05 of draft so the boiler would keep up with the demand. He has since mounted a 60 cfm combustion blower on the clean out door and runs only about .03-.04 with lower stack temps and keep up with the demand great.
KTM250 wrote:I assume that the blower works just like the flapper on the door did, when the boiler temp drops below set point it kicks the blower on