Just Installed New Baro This Morning
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Hello all,
I just installed a new 7" field control type RC baro into my system this morning. I just had my system intalled about 2 weeks ago and the system was using the old existing baro -- type M that never moved.
It is windy here today in Denver Pa. The new baro is swinging and flapping.
Will I still need a manometer? I have the weight set at the .04 position on the flapper.
THanks,
Mitch
I just installed a new 7" field control type RC baro into my system this morning. I just had my system intalled about 2 weeks ago and the system was using the old existing baro -- type M that never moved.
It is windy here today in Denver Pa. The new baro is swinging and flapping.
Will I still need a manometer? I have the weight set at the .04 position on the flapper.
THanks,
Mitch
- coalkirk
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The answer is yes, you should set it with a manometer. By the way, the type M is specifically designed for coal and probably only needed to be set with a manometer. Just because your RC is flapping in the breeze doesn't mean it's set correctly. The M would have done the same thing at the same setting.
- WNY
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Your old one could have rust or ash or the pivots rusted and may not be adjusted properly (thats what the draft gauge if for). That may be why it wasn't working correctly.
YES, all draft should be checked with a draft gauge (manometer). The weight setting is approx. You should be close however for starters. Also, with build of fly ash on the back side, it will change the draft settings eventually, so it's a good idea to check it at various times throughout the season and clean the back of it. It may not change much, but always a good idea to check it.
Yes, it should open and close depending on the draft, if windy, it will flap quite a bit.
Good luck
NOTE: There is "Manometer Loaner" program if you don't want to buy one. Check the top of this thread and request to be on the list.
YES, all draft should be checked with a draft gauge (manometer). The weight setting is approx. You should be close however for starters. Also, with build of fly ash on the back side, it will change the draft settings eventually, so it's a good idea to check it at various times throughout the season and clean the back of it. It may not change much, but always a good idea to check it.
Yes, it should open and close depending on the draft, if windy, it will flap quite a bit.
Good luck
NOTE: There is "Manometer Loaner" program if you don't want to buy one. Check the top of this thread and request to be on the list.
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My type M I believe is way old and it never pivoted no matter how much I adjusted the weight.
According to the field controls site, The type M and RC both can be used with the coal.
Is one better than the other? I aksed for the type M, but they only had the Rc in stock. Should I return and order a different one? My type M suggests oil or coal use, not just coal.
I realize that it's probably not set 100% accurate, but like stated before this is now moving and my old one never did.
I believe the old type M dates back to the original install of the furnace? If not, it is still way old.
I will order a manometer this week to get the setting even better.
Thanks,
Mitch
According to the field controls site, The type M and RC both can be used with the coal.
Is one better than the other? I aksed for the type M, but they only had the Rc in stock. Should I return and order a different one? My type M suggests oil or coal use, not just coal.
I realize that it's probably not set 100% accurate, but like stated before this is now moving and my old one never did.
I believe the old type M dates back to the original install of the furnace? If not, it is still way old.
I will order a manometer this week to get the setting even better.
Thanks,
Mitch
- rockwood
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Type M is supposed to be more precise than RC and has an unlimited adjustment range (if I remember correctly). I've only used the RC so I don't have experience with M. The RC seems to work just fine for me.mof1964 wrote:Is one better than the other?
- coaledsweat
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The M is what Field Controls recommends for coal, it has a few enhancements for the job. An R/C will work fine though.
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I went back to the field controls site today to see which item is preffered for coal. From what I see is that the type M covers a broader range of draft control -- .01 to .1
The RC model is also recommended for coal and it's range is .02 to .08
Typically is there a recommended draft setting used on either of these models?
I might try to get the old Type M working and then install a manometer and see which unit does the better job.
What else should I be doing with draft control?
Thanks,
Mitch
The RC model is also recommended for coal and it's range is .02 to .08
Typically is there a recommended draft setting used on either of these models?
I might try to get the old Type M working and then install a manometer and see which unit does the better job.
What else should I be doing with draft control?
Thanks,
Mitch
- coaledsweat
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Nothing, it just limits the maximum draft. By the way, the M costs about twice what the R/C does.mof1964 wrote:What else should I be doing with draft control?
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If the cost is that much difference, I think I will just try the RC and see how that works for me.
Like I stated earlier my old one didn't work at all, so this will be better than that.
Like I stated earlier my old one didn't work at all, so this will be better than that.
- coalkirk
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I'm sure the RC will work fine for you. Mine did. When I found out about the type M being "better" for coal and more sensitive, I had to have it. but then I'm a gadget nerd. In all honesty, even though the M adjustment is more fine if you will, I saw no difference in the operation once it was set. That said, I'd clean up the M and keep it around.
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I have the RC on both stoves, They seem to work well. You definitely need to get a Man-O-Meter and make sure they are set correctly.
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I just ordered a type M a few days ago to replace this dinosaur on my oil boiler. It vents to same flue as the stove, otherwise I wouldn't have bothered replacing it. It's a 14 year old type DM. Had to scratch through the layer of soot to find that out!
In case your wondering, the weight is INSIDE the flap. The wonders of some engineering!
In case your wondering, the weight is INSIDE the flap. The wonders of some engineering!
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To all those that responded with a vote of confidence that the RC model will be fine -- I say thanks.
Coalkirk-- I think you I have the right idea there. I will try to clean the old M up and see if it functions. Do they ever wear out?
Maybe I'm just not noticing something.
I will try both units when I get a manometer installed.
Thanks
Coalkirk-- I think you I have the right idea there. I will try to clean the old M up and see if it functions. Do they ever wear out?
Maybe I'm just not noticing something.
I will try both units when I get a manometer installed.
Thanks
- coalkirk
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As long as they are installed level and the pins aren't bent, it should last indefinatley.