Surdiac Problem Solved

Every morning the burn was hardly visible and most of the burn was in the lower hopper, with a lot of unburned coal where the fire should be. I installed a new seal on the glass door and it looks like it solved all of the problems that I have had in the past. I suspected that the old seal was not good for the door latch locked very easily .

I also have a Surdiac (Gotha 513). Early 80's. Bought it last year from a guy on Craigslist for $80! I could not get it to operate on coal either. The gaskets looked fairly decent. But, just like yours, I couldn't get the thing to burn right . I don't think the thermostat was working. It was the end of the cold season. So I gave up on it, after about five bags of coal. I think my chimney may have slightly too much draft. I had a chimney sweeper/stove installer measure the draft in the pipe connectors. The result was higher than the recommended draft for that stove. Earlier this year, we took the hopper out and started burning wood. The firebox in this stove is a little small. Longest time between loads is about 5 hours. I can only fit a 16" log in it. That's if I can get it in through the 6" by 5" top loading door and through the narrow coal shute without getting the logs caught on the hopper clips. The clips, which portrude out about 2 inches, are on both sides of the fire box. So the 16" logs get caught on them and won't go down the shute. Needless to say, this stove really isn't designed for wood, although it was originally marketed as a combination stove. As negative as that sounds, I like the little stove that could. From the basement, it has heated our small three bedroom ranch all winter. We've accidently broken the front glass this year. But, with the help of his trusty friend an antique 1936 Atlanta Stoveworks small box# 27, I installed in the livingroom fireplace, they have kept us from putting the central heat on at all. We went from using about 600 gallons of heating oil last year to what may be less than 100 gallons this year (only for hot water). My only fear is running out of wood. I've used about 2.5 cords and still have about 3.5 left. I should have cut and split some more. We still have downed trees as a result of last December's ice Noreaster. Enough to get about ten cords. With a lot of hard work we should have enough wood to heat for the next two years. So, I plan on purchasing a newer, bigger, more efficient, longer burning wood stove. Then I can restore the little Surdiac, close to it's original condition. New thermostat, gaskets, a little paint to protect the cast iron (the fabricators shuld have done this in the first place.) And one slight modification: a one piece fire viewing window with new gasketting to ensure air tighness. Then, I'll give the coal another shot, just to see if it work in my livingroom. But this will be after I install my newer stove in the basement.
Sorry for the long winded response to your positive result. But, you've inspired me!! I'll post with the results when I'm done.

VCBurner wrote:And one slight modification: a one piece fire viewing window with new gasketting to ensure air tighness. Then, I'll give the coal another shot, just to see if it work in my livingroom. But this will be after I install my newer stove in the basement.
Sorry for the long winded response to your positive result. But, you've inspired me!! I'll post with the results when I'm done.

Will be interested in how that works out. Some of the glass in mine is going to need replacing at the end of the heating season. Not sure but I think part of the reason for the seperate little pieces is that the bit of air allowed through makes them self cleaning. When starting the coal fire with wood I used to end up with soot on the glass. It would clear itself, working its way in from the edges of the glass. I have since covered the glass with aluminum foil when starting to avoid that problem.

The reason for the numerous pieces of "glass" is the thermal contraction and expansion. It has nothing to do with self cleaning abilities. The European stove have been that way for years. If your latches work real easily it is time to replace the seals or rope. Be sure not to stretch it while installing as it easy to due but defeats it sealing properties. Been there done that . I also use clothes pins to hold it in place while the adhesive dries, of course not when burning coal.

I read a Surdiac flyer somewhere on the net that stated that the glass is this way because it lets out 3% more radiant heat through the edges. Personally I think its a problem waiting to happen, just like the poster stated.

2001Sierra wrote:The reason for the numerous pieces of "glass" is the thermal contraction and expansion. It has nothing to do with self cleaning abilities. The European stove have been that way for years. If your latches work real easily it is time to replace the seals or rope. Be sure not to stretch it while installing as it easy to due but defeats it sealing properties. Been there done that . I also use clothes pins to hold it in place while the adhesive dries, of course not when burning coal.

"Do you see a problem with replacing the window with a solid piece? I know it needs new gaskets and cement between the two pieces of the hopper. That'll also be a part of the rehab."

Diesel wrote:I read a Surdiac flyer somewhere on the net that stated that the glass is this way because it lets out 3% more radiant heat through the edges. Personally I think its a problem waiting to happen, just like the poster stated.

" I could see that being the case. And they do mention 3% heat radiance but I think what they mean is the window radiates more heat than a metal door of some sort. If you notice the front of these stoves are not too hot to the touch. Less than a cast iron or plate steel stove. The small pieces seem to warp with wood burning. I wish this stove had a blower to spread the heat. This model was not designed with the wood burner in mind. But, if you get past the difficulty of loading the wood, it produces great amount of heat for a small firebox."